First Oil Change since Cam Change = metal pieces :(
10-06-2012, 12:08 PM
#21
Id maybe also ask them if they used lock tite on the cam bolts. seems a lot of people have an issue with cam bolts coming loose.
and for the cam break in, i would have used a heavier weight oil than 5w30. a synthetic oil isnt a good break in oil. i have always used valvoline vr1 20w50. it has a lot of zinc in it which is a good thing. and when i do a cam, i only run the oil for about an hour, then change the filter and oil, cut open the filter and inspect the contents of it, and inspect the oil with a very bright flashlight.
and to me, it does not look anything like needle bearings. they keep the round shape they normally have but may break into smaller peices. as mentioned above, id be getting ahold of the shop that did the work. tiny metal specs is one thing, but you have some good sized shavings that look scary to me.
and for the cam break in, i would have used a heavier weight oil than 5w30. a synthetic oil isnt a good break in oil. i have always used valvoline vr1 20w50. it has a lot of zinc in it which is a good thing. and when i do a cam, i only run the oil for about an hour, then change the filter and oil, cut open the filter and inspect the contents of it, and inspect the oil with a very bright flashlight.
and to me, it does not look anything like needle bearings. they keep the round shape they normally have but may break into smaller peices. as mentioned above, id be getting ahold of the shop that did the work. tiny metal specs is one thing, but you have some good sized shavings that look scary to me.
Did your purchase the cam new? I have seen a number of people who buy cams second hand that are "new" or "like new" that turn out to be low quality regrinds. They will punch through the ramp on the camshaft and leave flakes very similar to what is in the picture. You will get more valvetrain noise as well if this is the case. Typically sounds like the lifter chatter but amplified and will turn to what sounds like a rod knock when it finally starts to skid the roller on the lifter.
If no go on the above run the car for another few hundred miles and re inspect. Check the filter and magnetic plug. If you still have flakes it is time to dis assemble and find the problem. If no flakes I wouldn't loose sleep over it. It is not abnormal to have debris if the parts are not thoroughly cleaned.
If no go on the above run the car for another few hundred miles and re inspect. Check the filter and magnetic plug. If you still have flakes it is time to dis assemble and find the problem. If no flakes I wouldn't loose sleep over it. It is not abnormal to have debris if the parts are not thoroughly cleaned.
I'll have to ask the shop.
10-06-2012, 01:15 PM
#23
I'd lean towards burrs from the new camshaft, or possibly any other new, or newly machined parts installed at the time.
I'd go ahead and pull the new oil filter off in about 500 miles, and look for any metal shavings or burrs in it, just to be on the safe side.
I'd go ahead and pull the new oil filter off in about 500 miles, and look for any metal shavings or burrs in it, just to be on the safe side.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 10-06-2012 at 01:25 PM.
10-07-2012, 07:48 AM
#25
Agreed. Roller cams do NOT need a break in as tappet cams did.
The only thing "breaking in" on a new engine is the rings/cylinder walls.
A high zinc or break-in oil will have no affect on the cam lobes.
Cranmaro99, how is this engine running? Sounds good? No additional noise? Good power?
The only thing "breaking in" on a new engine is the rings/cylinder walls.
A high zinc or break-in oil will have no affect on the cam lobes.
Cranmaro99, how is this engine running? Sounds good? No additional noise? Good power?
10-07-2012, 07:57 AM
#26
People just dont understand is all, the funny part is how quick someone is to make comments to try and be little someones unknown knowledge!!.Must be the few hundred motors i have built i have never learned a thing since the early 80's
Agreed. Roller cams do NOT need a break in as tappet cams did.
The only thing "breaking in" on a new engine is the rings/cylinder walls.
A high zinc or break-in oil will have no affect on the cam lobes.
Cranmaro99, how is this engine running? Sounds good? No additional noise? Good power?
The only thing "breaking in" on a new engine is the rings/cylinder walls.
A high zinc or break-in oil will have no affect on the cam lobes.
Cranmaro99, how is this engine running? Sounds good? No additional noise? Good power?
10-07-2012, 12:13 PM
#28
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cape Gir., MO
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think it should be obvious that a roller cam does not need the same break in period that a flat tappet cam would. After doing any kind of internal engine work, I would still do a break in of any parts installed, meaning I would not throw the parts in, run the **** out of the engine, and not properly change and inspect the oil. I've built plenty of engines, done plenty of cam swaps, and plenty of intake and head swaps. I treat them all the same. One the engine has reached operating temp, drain the oil, cut open the filter, and inspect both. Do as you wish though, I'm sure you must be a professional since you've built hundreds of engines.
10-07-2012, 07:59 PM
#30
Agreed. Roller cams do NOT need a break in as tappet cams did.
The only thing "breaking in" on a new engine is the rings/cylinder walls.
A high zinc or break-in oil will have no affect on the cam lobes.
Cranmaro99, how is this engine running? Sounds good? No additional noise? Good power?
The only thing "breaking in" on a new engine is the rings/cylinder walls.
A high zinc or break-in oil will have no affect on the cam lobes.
Cranmaro99, how is this engine running? Sounds good? No additional noise? Good power?
Thanks for the tip.
09-12-2019, 08:04 PM
#36
TECH Senior Member
