OIL LEAK 'the bane of my existence'
#21
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (23)
I gave up on mine, I did everything I know to do...still seeps.
Had the trans out 3-4 times, replaced:
Rear main
Rear cover gasket
Silicone on the threads of the rear cover bolts
New cam sensor
Every time I pulled it down the back of the flywheel was dry,with oil droplets on the rear cover bolt heads.
The oil appears to be coming out of the vent holes in the bell housing where it meets the block and running down. The slots are at about 10 and 2 o'clock.
Putting silicone on the rear cover bolt threads seemed to help the most.
Again, I gave up. Not bad enough now for me to keep fighting.
Had the trans out 3-4 times, replaced:
Rear main
Rear cover gasket
Silicone on the threads of the rear cover bolts
New cam sensor
Every time I pulled it down the back of the flywheel was dry,with oil droplets on the rear cover bolt heads.
The oil appears to be coming out of the vent holes in the bell housing where it meets the block and running down. The slots are at about 10 and 2 o'clock.
Putting silicone on the rear cover bolt threads seemed to help the most.
Again, I gave up. Not bad enough now for me to keep fighting.
#22
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (23)
Still leaking.....but I check out the inside of the bell-housing with a bore-a-scope again and I clearly see that it running out from behind the flywheel. The flywheel appears to be dry front and back so I believe it is leaking from the bottom of the rear cover.
I have a new issue. I ended up replacing the valley cover gasket, opsu, and cam position sensor o-ring. Since I had the valley cover off I also replaced the knock sensors, knock sensor oil seal and knock sensor harness. I bought brand new BWD knock sensors and a new Dorman knock sensor harness from Oreilly Auto Parts. Put everything back together and when I started it up my SEL started flashing, but the car was running fine. I turned it off and restarted the car back up and the flashing SEL went away. After driving the car a week now It has only happened one other time and turning the car off and back on made it go away. I had it scanned for codes at Oreilly, but they said they didn't see anything and wouldn't be able to unless the SEL remained on.
Not sure what to think.
I have a new issue. I ended up replacing the valley cover gasket, opsu, and cam position sensor o-ring. Since I had the valley cover off I also replaced the knock sensors, knock sensor oil seal and knock sensor harness. I bought brand new BWD knock sensors and a new Dorman knock sensor harness from Oreilly Auto Parts. Put everything back together and when I started it up my SEL started flashing, but the car was running fine. I turned it off and restarted the car back up and the flashing SEL went away. After driving the car a week now It has only happened one other time and turning the car off and back on made it go away. I had it scanned for codes at Oreilly, but they said they didn't see anything and wouldn't be able to unless the SEL remained on.
Not sure what to think.
A flashing SES light indicates a fault that will damage the catalytic converter. Like an engine miss or very rich condition.
#23
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I think it's leaking from the bottom of your rear cover since you did not put any rtv on there.
It is a common leak source if you do not put any, just like the front cover.
It's too bad you're going to have to do the job all over again over something so simple.
Another possibility is the flywheel bolts if you didn't put any thread sealant on them.
It is a common leak source if you do not put any, just like the front cover.
It's too bad you're going to have to do the job all over again over something so simple.
Another possibility is the flywheel bolts if you didn't put any thread sealant on them.
#24
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I think it's leaking from the bottom of your rear cover since you did not put any rtv on there.
It is a common leak source if you do not put any, just like the front cover.
It's too bad you're going to have to do the job all over again over something so simple.
Another possibility is the flywheel bolts if you didn't put any thread sealant on them.
It is a common leak source if you do not put any, just like the front cover.
It's too bad you're going to have to do the job all over again over something so simple.
Another possibility is the flywheel bolts if you didn't put any thread sealant on them.
Since I'm going to have the rear cover off is it worth getting a new rear galley plug (the plastic bar bell) in case its leaking? Also some people have said porosity can happen on the block or rear cover and that added a thin smear of rtv to the rear cover gasket mating surfaces can make it seal better. Is this worth doing?
#25
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (23)
Yeah, I think its the bottom corners of the rear cover as well. I didn't put any rtv there. Just to be on the save side I order a new rear cover, gasket set and cover bolts from ws6store. I don't think its the flywheel bolts because the clutch doesn't slip and when I removed the starter to have a look the flywheel was bone dry front and back.
Since I'm going to have the rear cover off is it worth getting a new rear galley plug (the plastic bar bell) in case its leaking? Also some people have said porosity can happen on the block or rear cover and that added a thin smear of rtv to the rear cover gasket mating surfaces can make it seal better. Is this worth doing?
Since I'm going to have the rear cover off is it worth getting a new rear galley plug (the plastic bar bell) in case its leaking? Also some people have said porosity can happen on the block or rear cover and that added a thin smear of rtv to the rear cover gasket mating surfaces can make it seal better. Is this worth doing?
Also there is a procedure for tightening the pan bolts that go into the rear cover along with the cover bolts....don't remember what it is though.
#26
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Finally got a chance to work on the oil leak this past weekend. Turns out the oil was leaking past the rear of the oil pan gasket and down one of the long oil pan bolts that sits in the bell housing. The clutch assembly was clean as well as the rear main and oil galley plug. Installed a new rear main cover assembly and put rtv all along the lower edge of the rear cover and made sure to get some in the leaking oil pan bolt hole. Thanks to my friend this should be the end to my oil leak. I will drive the car more and keep yall posted.
#28
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cool that you solved it. I have a small leak that has stained my concrete about a foot in a year. My LT1 did the same damm thing! Since I'm not a mechanic it is one of those things to debate paying to fix it or live with it? I'm getting headwork done soon, I'll let them know.