Damn!!! 
Damn!!!
You are going to have to support the engine with either a hoist or some fixture and loosen/drop the k-member bolts (6) 3 each side to get that pan out. The bolt securing each motor mount to the pedestal will have to be removed as well.
This guy leaves the front bolts in and removes the rear two bolts on each side.
This guy leaves the front bolts in and removes the rear two bolts on each side.
You are going to have to support the engine with either a hoist or some fixture and loosen/drop the k-member bolts (6) 3 each side to get that pan out. The bolt securing each motor mount to the pedestal will have to be removed as well.
This guy leaves the front bolts in and removes the rear two bolts on each side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmqIyEjR6mY
This guy leaves the front bolts in and removes the rear two bolts on each side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmqIyEjR6mY
Last edited by chevybayboy; Oct 16, 2012 at 06:01 PM.
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that part of a swap always scares me.... the pan wont go low enough to really get in there good but ive swapped 3 oil pumps and havent dropped one yet... (crosses fingers)
its a good idea to tie some line/wire loosely (you wanna get it off after bolt is started) around that bolt before hand as well...
I just remember one guy one here he used shop towels stuck them behind so the bolt couldn't go anywhere I forgot about this until my damn bolt was in the pan happy I got her out I'm about to start my rebuild thinking bout making thread for it but I didn't do anything to crazy pretty much everything but crank forged internals and rod bolts but I did do a t56 swap so I might post everything that I've done later today
I always just put a long skinny zip tie around the bolt threads once i have backed it out about half way. that way i can hold then end of it with the other hand so it doesn't fall in.