Block Honing Question
Block Honing Question Guys, I am in the process of a rebuild & it seems I keep coming to a lot of obstacles. Okay, I had planned to re-use the stock pistons, rods, & crank. Well a buddy of mine told me that if I replaced the stock piston rings with new ones that I may have blowby & comsumption problems & said that I may need to have the bores honed. And he also said that if I have them honed that I would need to go to a 347ci piston because the dimensions would be off for the stock pistons after the hone.
My question is.. Is this true? Do I need to hone the bores for use of my stock pistons with new piston rings? And if that is the case and I hone them, will I then NOT be able to use my stock pistons, meaning I would need a 347 piston?
And one other question. If I do need to hone for whatever reason, is it possible to do it myself? I have seen a couple videos of people doing it but I never see them measure after to check the diameter of the bore.
If anyone doesnt understand what Im asking(might have worded something wrong or just not described it right lol) then let me know and Ill try to clarify. Thanks in advance.
Brenton
My question is.. Is this true? Do I need to hone the bores for use of my stock pistons with new piston rings? And if that is the case and I hone them, will I then NOT be able to use my stock pistons, meaning I would need a 347 piston?
And one other question. If I do need to hone for whatever reason, is it possible to do it myself? I have seen a couple videos of people doing it but I never see them measure after to check the diameter of the bore.
If anyone doesnt understand what Im asking(might have worded something wrong or just not described it right lol) then let me know and Ill try to clarify. Thanks in advance.
Brenton
Here's the deal...the condition of your cylinders will determine what is needed. If the walls are fine, (no scores or whatever) put the new rings on and go. Modern rings are designed to create a seal on existing walls.
If you must hone it to clean up scrapes or scores, you can only go .003 to .007 depending on the year of your block, and you will need larger pistons.
If the walls are fine, and you want to hone to be safe or whatever your reasoning may be, you can get a glaze breaker hone and do it yourself with a drill and some atf. A few consistent up and downs will be enough. Re ring and go.
If you must hone it to clean up scrapes or scores, you can only go .003 to .007 depending on the year of your block, and you will need larger pistons.
If the walls are fine, and you want to hone to be safe or whatever your reasoning may be, you can get a glaze breaker hone and do it yourself with a drill and some atf. A few consistent up and downs will be enough. Re ring and go.
As said as long as the bores don't have gouges just scratch up the walls with a flex home and go. I've done a few motors like that where it just needed a freshen up and it's been fine
I like the ball hones better as it's a little easier to get a consistent cross hatch. Either will work tho.
If your cylinders are in good condition you can just ball hone to remove the glaze. I've never heard of a ring manufacturer recommending ring replacement without honing the cylinders to at least remove the glazing. Just putting rings into an old cylinder is asking for trouble. Also, if you want the best quality rebuild with the least amount of blow by have the cylinders honed to an oversize with a torque plate. I can tell you for a fact that head bolt torque does distort the cylinders a couple thousandths on the ls1 block.
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Well thats what I was trying to avoid(having to go to an oversized piston.)
Another question I thought I'd ask. What size hone? I see 3.9" & 4". Isnt the stock bore 3.89x or similar? Which size hone should I use?
Another question I thought I'd ask. What size hone? I see 3.9" & 4". Isnt the stock bore 3.89x or similar? Which size hone should I use?
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Verdad Gallardo If your cylinders are in good condition you can just ball hone to remove the glaze. I've never heard of a ring manufacturer recommending ring replacement without honing the cylinders to at least remove the glazing. Just putting rings into an old cylinder is asking for trouble. Also, if you want the best quality rebuild with the least amount of blow by have the cylinders honed to an oversize with a torque plate. I can tell you for a fact that head bolt torque does distort the cylinders a couple thousandths on the ls1 block.
Flex hone has 3 "fingers" with stones that do the work. A ball hone has many little ***** that make it easier to get a good cross hatch.
If your cylinders are good then just deglaze the cylinders and re-ring it. If I was going through all this work I would go oversized, straighten the cylinders out and be done with it. bww3588, show me something factual about just throwing rings in an old bore. Read any installation instructions for rings and they'll recommend not only to hone but what grit stones to use, and proper crosshatch. I've never seen anything that tells you to just throw the rings in the old cylinders.
Not saying honing is not recommended, just saying it can be done with new rings. years ago, if you tried this, the rings would flutter and more than likely burn a **** load of oil.
What do you think GM does to solve the oil consumption issues of the ls4? Slap new rings in and go.
Again, no reason not to clean the cylinders up with a light hone, but it CAN be done.
What do you think GM does to solve the oil consumption issues of the ls4? Slap new rings in and go.
Again, no reason not to clean the cylinders up with a light hone, but it CAN be done.
Yea ball hone is the way to go. When I looked and bought one there are so many different sizes, here is the 400 grit hone I went with per tony mamo's recommendation...
This was the perfect size as it can do anything from a ford 302 to 5.3/5.7 LS engine to a small block chevy 350. I didn't end up using it because my 200k mile cylinder walls still had factory cross hatch. There is also powder that JEGS sells call quick seal that aides in seating the rings. I wouldn't be afraid to hone it with a ball hone and run the stock piston and rings if they are in good condition. Good luck on the build bro.
This was the perfect size as it can do anything from a ford 302 to 5.3/5.7 LS engine to a small block chevy 350. I didn't end up using it because my 200k mile cylinder walls still had factory cross hatch. There is also powder that JEGS sells call quick seal that aides in seating the rings. I wouldn't be afraid to hone it with a ball hone and run the stock piston and rings if they are in good condition. Good luck on the build bro.
wildcamaro, thanks for posting up the pics & the info about the size. I appreciate it. And glad to see that you had talked to Tony Mamo about it & thats what he recommended, kinda makes me feel better about the whole situation.
About the powder from JEGS you're talking about..is that to seal the rings once I start the engine? Thanks again man.
About the powder from JEGS you're talking about..is that to seal the rings once I start the engine? Thanks again man.
Yea it fills in the cross hatch of the bore and allows must faster seating of the rings, you have to have your cylinders perfectly clean as stated in their instructions. I believe it is call "quick seal" and is marketed by total seal rings.
There are a lot of old wive's tales or outdated information out there. Just because your friend might be good with a '70s era vehicle doesn't mean he knows everything about this one. Old carbed stuff and the thick high tension rings of the era would wash the oil from the cylinders during warmup with too much fuel then the heavy rings would grind away the cylinder. Engines do not wear like they used to.
