Caught on fire LQ9 *Pictures*
I would have thought the motor would have been fine too. If it turns over smoothly, any plastic would melt and burn off in a matter of minutes of running. The ARP bolts is not good tho...You are definitely rolling the dice on that one. Don't fall into the illusion if invulnerability, Just because you got away from it once, doesn't mean it will be ok this time.
Cylinder temps get pretty high. I would think if the engine turns over smooth now, there isn't any obstructions.
Thanks for the advice. I did not resize them, nor did I resize them on my old motor that I ran up to 7200 rpms and drove 10k+ miles and still runnin. I guess I completely over looked the fact of resizing. Maybe I should just pull it down, clean it, and put new bearings, rings ect.. or I should have just left the rod bolts alone. Well trial and error it is for me....
Let's consider worse case scenario of plastic having gotten behind the rings and in the ring gap while the engine was cold. On startup the heat starts making the piston and rings expand. If there is plastic in the ring gap and it doesn't go away fast enough the ring gap can't close and it basically starts making the ring tension go through the roof digging into the cylinder walls.
I am not saying this is likely and it sounds as if the plastic didn't get that far in this case, just trying to take a careful look at what could happen.
IMO if plastic got down into the rings that cylinder would be junk pretty quickly after startup. Even if it just messed with ring seal and began letting oil get up into the chamber. Boost as the OP wants to do combined with oil in the chambers would detonate it to death in short order. I am a big fan of junkyard builds. I run 11s with a over 2 ton boat and a junkyard shortblock I never even pulled a bearing cap off of so I am not blindly pushing too much disassembly. I am suggesting thoughtful inspection before running.
