Caught on fire LQ9 *Pictures*
Caught on fire LQ9 *Pictures* I bought a LQ9 long block with 30k miles out of an 03 Escalade for 400$
The truck was in a garage attached to a house that went up in flames.
No water got in the motor (From fire company), intake manifold and all upper plastic was melted off, heads are fine just dirty, oil pan and lower sensors all fine.
I plan on using ONLY the short block. All covers, sensors, heads, gaskets, oil pan ect.. will be changed.
When i pulled the oil pan off I found this, the cylinders has some melted plastic dripped into them, but it was easily removed. Cylinders are in perfect shape with cross hatching marks.
Am i safe to run this after some cleaning? It looks like the oil just burnt possibly and stained the block.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8214705756/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8213630623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8214718464/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8214720670/
The truck was in a garage attached to a house that went up in flames.
No water got in the motor (From fire company), intake manifold and all upper plastic was melted off, heads are fine just dirty, oil pan and lower sensors all fine.
I plan on using ONLY the short block. All covers, sensors, heads, gaskets, oil pan ect.. will be changed.
When i pulled the oil pan off I found this, the cylinders has some melted plastic dripped into them, but it was easily removed. Cylinders are in perfect shape with cross hatching marks.
Am i safe to run this after some cleaning? It looks like the oil just burnt possibly and stained the block.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8214705756/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8213630623/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8214718464/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55665137@N05/8214720670/
I would probiably pull it down and at least clean it all up with new bearings and such. Might be fine as is, but who knows. The fact you found stuff down in the bores is what makes me wonder.
Thanks for the input guys. I have decided to run it without taking it down. Its cleaned up fairly well with some scrubbing, and cranks smoothly. I have replaced
Arp rod bolts
Lifters
lifter trays
Cam
Front and rear covers
melling oil pump
Timing set
And all other top-end parts.
I only have 400$ into it, so I plan on starting it with some Sea Foam (Or some type of cleaner) to treat the oil and do a oil change after 15-30 min idle, then repeat after driving around 50 miles..
Arp rod bolts
Lifters
lifter trays
Cam
Front and rear covers
melling oil pump
Timing set
And all other top-end parts.
I only have 400$ into it, so I plan on starting it with some Sea Foam (Or some type of cleaner) to treat the oil and do a oil change after 15-30 min idle, then repeat after driving around 50 miles..
Trending Topics
I had a old 350SBC that burned up in a 78 camaro. Pulled it out. Pressure washed it. Slaped a new carb and distributer in it. Changed the intake manifold gaskets.Stuck it in a pickup truck and drove the crap outta it. No issues at all. I wouldent worry about it to much
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
LMAO pressured washed it! That gives me hope, I dont think I have the guts to go that far but im gonna scrub it good with a cleaner.
Im shooting for 12 psi on a single 80mm Garrett turbo, I'll definatly be driving the crap out of it!
Im shooting for 12 psi on a single 80mm Garrett turbo, I'll definatly be driving the crap out of it!
BKsNHRA
The difference being this had a plastic intake that melted into the engine.
Now I didn't open the pics large to look but if plastic leaked down to the back side of the piston then it is in the rings and needs to be cleaned out. If it stayed on top and hardened before it leaked past the rings then maybe you could throw the dice.
The difference being this had a plastic intake that melted into the engine.
Now I didn't open the pics large to look but if plastic leaked down to the back side of the piston then it is in the rings and needs to be cleaned out. If it stayed on top and hardened before it leaked past the rings then maybe you could throw the dice.
Damn, it was close, 2 cylinders had plastic starting to drip down the cylinder walls, but not all the way to the pistons. It was mainly in the heads.
Will I know pretty much right away when I start it if there is plastic in the rings? Im assuming it will most likely smoke, lose compression?
Will I know pretty much right away when I start it if there is plastic in the rings? Im assuming it will most likely smoke, lose compression?
Thanks for the input guys. I have decided to run it without taking it down. Its cleaned up fairly well with some scrubbing, and cranks smoothly. I have replaced
Arp rod bolts
Lifters
lifter trays
Cam
Front and rear covers
melling oil pump
Timing set
And all other top-end parts.
I only have 400$ into it, so I plan on starting it with some Sea Foam (Or some type of cleaner) to treat the oil and do a oil change after 15-30 min idle, then repeat after driving around 50 miles..
Arp rod bolts
Lifters
lifter trays
Cam
Front and rear covers
melling oil pump
Timing set
And all other top-end parts.
I only have 400$ into it, so I plan on starting it with some Sea Foam (Or some type of cleaner) to treat the oil and do a oil change after 15-30 min idle, then repeat after driving around 50 miles..
My thoughts exactly, the engine probably would have been fine to have been just cleaned and new seals and gaskets, but it is now on borrowed time with the ARP rod bolt upgrade if the OP didn't get the big end checked and honed and corresponding correct bearings installed.
The ARP rod bolt upgrade is over hyped the stock rod bolts are just fine for 90% of the engines out there, now if you are planning on FI or spinning the motor to 7500-8000 rpm's consistently then you need the upgrade, albeit done correctly. Someone is laughing all the way to the bank on the amount of LS Series ARP rod bolts being sold, due to paranoid users that heard of a friend of a friends of a friends uncle that had a rod bolt failure. Many other top end parts will fail first on a stock engine that is being revved to 7500-8000, but to each his own.
The ARP rod bolt upgrade is over hyped the stock rod bolts are just fine for 90% of the engines out there, now if you are planning on FI or spinning the motor to 7500-8000 rpm's consistently then you need the upgrade, albeit done correctly. Someone is laughing all the way to the bank on the amount of LS Series ARP rod bolts being sold, due to paranoid users that heard of a friend of a friends of a friends uncle that had a rod bolt failure. Many other top end parts will fail first on a stock engine that is being revved to 7500-8000, but to each his own.
Last edited by lizeec; Nov 26, 2012 at 09:02 PM.
Where he is going with the question is did you resize? Did you see the thread where someone documented the "no resizing" Katechs really do need resizing the ARPs clearly state you have to resize and hell maybe even balance.
Then there is the what does HP have to do with rodbolts? RPM is what is rough on rodbolts not HP. Rod bolts are under stress when the piston is pulled back down from TDC, hell if anything the boost reduces vacuum and therefore tension on the rodbolts on the intake stroke. Not arguing boost will make a shortblock more rpm tolerant just trying to make a point about what the stresses on rodbolts are.
Then there is the what does HP have to do with rodbolts? RPM is what is rough on rodbolts not HP. Rod bolts are under stress when the piston is pulled back down from TDC, hell if anything the boost reduces vacuum and therefore tension on the rodbolts on the intake stroke. Not arguing boost will make a shortblock more rpm tolerant just trying to make a point about what the stresses on rodbolts are.
Last edited by 96capricemgr; Nov 27, 2012 at 08:40 AM.
Thanks for the advice. I did not resize them, nor did I resize them on my old motor that I ran up to 7200 rpms and drove 10k+ miles and still runnin. I guess I completely over looked the fact of resizing. Maybe I should just pull it down, clean it, and put new bearings, rings ect.. or I should have just left the rod bolts alone. Well trial and error it is for me....
Where he is going with the question is did you resize? Did you see the thread where someone documented the "no resizing" Katechs really do need resizing the ARPs clearly state you have to resize and hell maybe even balance.
Then there is the what does HP have to do with rodbolts? RPM is what is rough on rodbolts not HP. Rod bolts are under stress when the piston is pulled back down from TDC, hell if anything the boost reduces vacuum and therefore tension on the rodbolts on the intake stroke. Not arguing boost will make a shortblock more rpm tolerant just trying to make a point about what the stresses on rodbolts are.
Then there is the what does HP have to do with rodbolts? RPM is what is rough on rodbolts not HP. Rod bolts are under stress when the piston is pulled back down from TDC, hell if anything the boost reduces vacuum and therefore tension on the rodbolts on the intake stroke. Not arguing boost will make a shortblock more rpm tolerant just trying to make a point about what the stresses on rodbolts are.
Thanks for the advice. I did not resize them, nor did I resize them on my old motor that I ran up to 7200 rpms and drove 10k+ miles and still runnin. I guess I completely over looked the fact of resizing. Maybe I should just pull it down, clean it, and put new bearings, rings ect.. or I should have just left the rod bolts alone. Well trial and error it is for me....
OP listen to what they are saying. I've been following a LQ4 Turbo build on another site and what they are saying about getting the rod's re-size after ARP install is the exact reason his connecting rods destroyed his crank and bearings. IIRC ARP even tells you to do so.
Thanks for the advice. I did not resize them, nor did I resize them on my old motor that I ran up to 7200 rpms and drove 10k+ miles and still runnin. I guess I completely over looked the fact of resizing. Maybe I should just pull it down, clean it, and put new bearings, rings ect.. or I should have just left the rod bolts alone. Well trial and error it is for me....