Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I would suggest that if you don't have the funds to "properly" build this engine, you set it aside for the moment and get back to it when you do. Do it right once.

Boot camp goes quickly-except hell week, that'll feel like three weeks.

Sinister_Z28

Im not worried about boot camp its what comes after lol. Anyways my basic idea with this is while im in there i want to build the 402 then put the car back together so it can be driven. Then after boot camp i wanna then do all the performance stuff. Like heads cam boltons and so on and so forth. Basically the car wont be driven much for four months just enough to keep it in tip top shape. Basically i dont want to have a broken inoperable car sitting around. Also i priced out a new stock bottom end versus a 402 bottom end and there is roughly a thousand dollar difference. Also im already in there why not get what i want.

Dirty Dog

iTrader: (2)

It doesn't need to be driven to be kept in shape. Park it. Put in the new engine when you can do it properly.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

My car has sat for almost 2 years now... Half the time I had lost motivation to do anything with it, the other half I have been saving money/buying parts.

Interior is just the same as when I pulled it in the garage (you could use a storage unit if a garage isn't an option), I just open the doors every so often and wipe it down and let it air out. For the exterior I roll it outside about once every couple months and give it a quick wash.

It is in the same condition as when it was parked. Do it once, do it right.

My thought.... If you don't have money for even simple bolt ons or supporting mods, you don't have money for the 402.

TMS has some great budget friendly options.

Sinister_Z28

Ok so if i wanted to build a 402 what are the minimum parts that u guys would suggest. Basically im looking for a parts list of major components i would need to support the 402. All suggestions would be appreciated.

crcdude

So.. Just how many clutches did the car go through in 173 K

Shocked it lasted this long.

Sorry bout yer loss anyway

Sinister_Z28

I have no clue how many clutches it went through. I am the third owner. It is my first car and my pride and joy. I worked from an early age and saved everything i made so i could buy a Camaro for my first car. I can blame my mom for that cause she did the same and bought a 76 new off the lot for her first car. The clutch was replaced 20,000 miles before i bought it.

thompson

iTrader: (4)

Give us a shout and we will get you in under budget. We also offer military discounts.

What branch are you joining?

Sinister_Z28

Im joining the Navy. So i had someone tell me that sometimes when u throw a rod you can damage your heads. Other then obvious head damage how can i tell if i need new heads.

RezinTexas

If I was in your situation, I would just swap in a junkyard LQ4 (with a warranty) and then you're back on the road until you save up money to do it right and learn more about how to build these engines. That will also give you the time to diagnose what went wrong with your LS1.

thompson

iTrader: (4)

We can get you a motor to get you back on the road for as little as $1619(Iron LS1). This will eliminate the concern of having to go through 4 motors from the junkyard that might or might not be any good. A warranty is no help when you have to replace the motor over and over to get one that might last long enough to save up your money.

Majik1

I agree with rezin if a running car is what you need, get a cheap swap to get it running, then research and read and then read some more. Once you have your goals, budget and time then begin the build. A build is 90% research, 5% budget and 5% time, and 100% fun when you're done and its done right!

Sinister_Z28

I dont absolutely need a running car like now. I want to build a LS2 402. No im calling Thompson's Motorsports tommorow to see what they can do. But if they dont have what i need ill be ordering a block rotating assembly and bolts gaskets ported oil pump and all that jazz from TSP. This isnt my first rebuild but it will be my first LS build. Now im looking for advice. I am a strong believer in doing it right the first time so im trying to learn from all of you guys im just a young guy seeking advice.

thompson

iTrader: (4)

We look forward to hearing from you.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Glad to hear you are joining the Navy. Welcome, I did my time in the Navy too, Sonar Tech. You will love it.

If you want to build a 402 then build it. You will have alot of time between now and when you get out of boot to save up the money.

Here is my sugested build with some pro's and cons. This is in stages:

6.0L (LQ4 or LQ9) iron block (less expensive then then buying an alluminum block, can handle more power then the aluminum block, can be bored/rebuilt more times then an aluminum block, but it ways about 80 pounds more)

A 4" crankshaft to make it a 402 (or 408 depending on what the final bore is).
Good aftermarket rods, not rebuilt stock rods!

ARP main studs and ARP head bolts. The original head bolts and main bolts are torque to yeild, meaning they can only be used once. Re-using them is taking a major risk. For the price of new GM bolts you can buy ARP bolts. The ARP bolts are not torque to yeild and can be used over and over again.

Melling oil pump, Melling makes several pumps for the LS engine, stock volume/ stock pressure/ single timing chain width, also High pressure/High Volume, and for a double roller timing chain.

Forged Pistons, set up for 10.5:1 compression with our heads.

Now you have a bottom end that can handle 1000hp.

Put it back together with your heads, after they have been checked out and rebuilt. Your valve springs have enough miles on them you will be better off to buy new ones, that said you will need different valve springs for what ever aftermarket cam you choose.

Install some new lifters (I would) and pushrods.

Have it tuned and go have fun. You will not make 5.7L HP numbers, no way, you can easily make 450 to 500hp with those stock heads on a 402 with the right cam and alot more torque.

Then later after boot and when you are settled in on ship (you will have several schools before then) you can save up your cash while at sea and get some nice aftermarket heads and plan the toppend out.

Please keep in mind you need to plan to upgrade your trans, driveshaft, and rear end. You will brake them with a 402.

Good luck, thanks in advance for joining our ranks. Welcome aboard.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

You should be able to build the 402 short block for less then $4000.

I do not know what TSP or the other sponsors are getting for their short or long blocks. I think you can get a 402 (408) rotating assembly from then in the 1800 to 2000 dollar range. Once you buy a new block or a used block and have the machine work done you will be up over $3000.

I just finished building a LQ9 engine for a 2006 3/4 ton truck. We are putting a little turbo on it, just for pulling and it will not see more then 10psi of boost. We used his 6.0L block, punched it .030" over to make it 4.030" bore. Used the stock crank (3.622") used forged pistons with 4cc valve reliefs (10 to 1 compression with our heads and head gaskets), Eagle 6.125" rods, LQ9 cam and 317 heads with truck intake. Buying all the parts including the used 6.0L engine, having the machinework done, Balancing, heads rebuilt, new lifter and pushrods, new pump and timing chain, ARP Main Studs and heads studs, everything, the bill was $4500. That was un assembled. We put them together ourselves. I think that saved us $500-$800.

That is for a 6.0L LQ9 engine which I think is stock is like 345hp and 380tq. Add about $700 to $900 for a stroker crank to make it a 402 (or 408).

I hope this helps with your decision process.

Note: Even though I build my own and my close friends engines and turbo kits, I am not in the buisness of building engines for others, I am NOT soliciting work with this post. If a reader askes me to build him an engine or turbo kit the answer is NO! I am NOT advertising my services. Please do not ask me to do so, the answer is NO! There are several GREAT Sponsors here that are very profesional and do amazing work that ARE in the business of building engines and turbo kits. Please consult with them for services and parts. My words posted here is for educational reasons only and are intended to help fellow members.

Sinister_Z28

Thanks you Texas WS6 that is exactly what i needed to know. Now any piston and ring company's you would recomend? Also what is the ball park i need to be in on a cam. I almost have the motor out and from what i can see the motor is toast. I have a massive hole in the passenger side of the block and a small 1"hole in the drivers side. I will take the heads off after i pull the motor to see how bad they are screwed up. Also is it normal to find large chunks of metal in the intake manifold. And i am having a hell of a time trying to get a censor unplugged from the oil pan.

Sinister_Z28

Oh the big hole is so massive i can clearly see part of the crank. I greatly appreciate everyones help on this. Now Texas WS6 that bottom end that you told me how to build will i be able to spray a big shot on it ok down the road like after i get the top end i want on it.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

There are several great piston manufactures. You can get them from most of the sponsors here. I am one of the few that run Ross pistons in my LS. Ross is one of the very best. Very thick piston skirts, and a superb piston, but not a budget build. Wiesco would be my second choice. They have a ton of off the shelf piston combinations for almost every application you can dream up for the LS. Off the shelf pistons will fit a budget, any custom piston like the Ross will cost alot more. I put Mahle pistons in a friends turbo truck engine build. I can easily see they are not in the same leage as the Ross, but that said his engine is 100% a daily driver camper pulling low boost turbo build, low rpm setup (more to make it pull like a diesel) and not a high HP high rpm build. So they will be great for his budget and his goals.

Really you need to figure out your budget first. From that you can decide what cubic inch engne will fit your budget. Then what you really plan to use the engine for. That will dictate the piston type, compression ratio, present cam with current top end. If you do not have a budget planned you will end up like me with $100 grand in the car. We are no longer alowed to talk about the cost of my car without first having 10 shots and 5 cases of beer drank.

With a good aftermarket forged crank, forged rods, and ARP bolted bottem end AND the right tuned and fueled nitrous kit with safety shutoffs the engine will handle alot of juice. Keep in mind, these engines will handle alot of power, but the more power you make the less life you will get out of it. A 150hp LS engine will live longer then a 1500hp ls engine. That is true for all engines. The life span of the engine is relevent to each persons perseption. It is also true a high HP LS with X HP will tend to live longer then most other non LS old school engines at the same X HP. So do not expect to get 300,000 miles out of it if you put any power adder to it. If NO2 is done right it is no more damaging to the engine then any other power adder.

With your time frame, and considering your budget (I am assuming military pay from my personal experience but I really do not know your income) I would use a used 6.0 truck block, bore it 4.030, put ARP studs in the bottom end, run a Eagle 4" crank, Eagle 6.125 rods, and Weisco pistons setup for what ever compression you want depending on the intended use. If it is a NA engine build with NO2 on top and you if you intend to use a large cam I would set the compression up for no more then 11:1 and no less then 10.5:1. Have it professionaly tuned for high octan pump gas and never put anything less then high octane pump gas in it. Balance it, and use good head gaskets with ARP head bolts or studs. I would not be afraid to shoot 250 or 300 horse shot on it if the system is setup and tuned right.

If you plan to run nothing but E85 in it then you can really go up in compression, 12:1 up to 14:1 depending on cam profile. The more compression you have the more power it will make, but the higher Octane the fuel needs to be and cam choice will be more critical.

Decide on a budget and intended use of the engine and then we can help you make an educated decision on what to build.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Material in the intake is a very bad sign. You probably have a bent valve. the valve might have either stuck open, or the timing chain broke, or a valve spring broke and let the valve float. What ever caused the valve to be open let the piston hit the valve. Once hit it came apart, some of it going into the intake port and into the intake manifold. The piston came apart and let the rod sling around cutting the block up. Sucks.