MILD Cam help, tuning, HP, KR, Xtrooper, etc.
#1
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I am looking at getting a mild cam for street and roadcourse lapping sessions. My car is an M6 and has LS6 intake manifold, Airlid, SLP Y-Pipe, and Flowmaster catback. I DO NOT want headers, and I don't plan on touching the heads. I am trying to decide between the following two LOW lift cams for extended mid-high rpm driving (3500-5800+):
CC 212/218 .532/.532 114
CC 216/220 .532/.532 114
CC 918 Springs
CC Ti Retainers
CC Chromemoly pushrods
JWIS Timing Chain
1. Will I lose ANy torque throughout the RPM range?
2. Do I use 7.35" or 7.40" pushrods? (somebody said something about low-lift cams using different rods, I thought just if you milled heads)
3. How much tuning will be required? Will a Predator or MAFT suffice, or do I need Wideband LS1Edit tuning?? Will I encounter KR?
4. Do you think I will be able to hit 360+RWHP/RWTQ?
5. Will it be a good SOP gain? I'm not looking for a drag racer, but I would like some more pull, especially from say 70-120.
6. Does anybody else have a similar setup, dyno graphs?
7. Recommendations?
Thanks, Dennis
CC 212/218 .532/.532 114
CC 216/220 .532/.532 114
CC 918 Springs
CC Ti Retainers
CC Chromemoly pushrods
JWIS Timing Chain
1. Will I lose ANy torque throughout the RPM range?
2. Do I use 7.35" or 7.40" pushrods? (somebody said something about low-lift cams using different rods, I thought just if you milled heads)
3. How much tuning will be required? Will a Predator or MAFT suffice, or do I need Wideband LS1Edit tuning?? Will I encounter KR?
4. Do you think I will be able to hit 360+RWHP/RWTQ?
5. Will it be a good SOP gain? I'm not looking for a drag racer, but I would like some more pull, especially from say 70-120.
6. Does anybody else have a similar setup, dyno graphs?
7. Recommendations?
Thanks, Dennis
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I have a 218/224 cam, w/ mods similar to yours, except for Hooker shorties, which are about the same as later-model stock manifolds. Of the two cams you mentioned, I would go w/ the 216/220.
You should not lose any torque in the usable power band. Any power losses will occur off-idle to 1500 RPMs or so. My car makes over 300 TQ at 2000 RPMs.
I would figure on a 20-25 HP gain from your cam, w/ tuning.
BTW, if you're looking for an alternative approach to making 360 HP w/ NO emissions, driveability, mileage, or idle quality issues, I made 361 HP w/ the stock cam & a set of very mild ported heads, milled .030".
You should not lose any torque in the usable power band. Any power losses will occur off-idle to 1500 RPMs or so. My car makes over 300 TQ at 2000 RPMs.
I would figure on a 20-25 HP gain from your cam, w/ tuning.
BTW, if you're looking for an alternative approach to making 360 HP w/ NO emissions, driveability, mileage, or idle quality issues, I made 361 HP w/ the stock cam & a set of very mild ported heads, milled .030".
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Check out the CC 220 224 114 cam. This should give you good power up to 6500rpms and have decent ilde. It has similar lift and would be easier on valvesprings. 918 might be overkill. The ls6 springs should work and might be cheaper.
#4
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I like #2...
CC 216/220 .532/.532 114
#1 is too small I would do that in a truck.
Should feel great thru the entire power band and idle close to stock with just a little hint of a lope, it will sound like a stock 93-97 LT1 cam IMO.
CC 216/220 .532/.532 114
#1 is too small I would do that in a truck.
Should feel great thru the entire power band and idle close to stock with just a little hint of a lope, it will sound like a stock 93-97 LT1 cam IMO.
#7
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216/220 114
1) Maybe a little on the bottom end but it depends on how much advance is ground in. I'd go with no advance and figure you can shift at 6200/6300, but for higher rpm power you might consider 2 degrees retarded.
3) minimal tuning; probably just a MAFT. Even with a MAFT, a wideband dyno session is the way to do it right. Personally, I think EDIT is a good investment (and a requirement if you had an A4)
4) yes
5) more SOTP gain than any of your other mods taken individually.
7) Use the XE lobes which are ~ .550 lift. They will have better drivability and idle. Consider a 216/222 115 with zero or +2 advance on XE ramps. Better idle than your .534 ramps and the extra exhaust duration will help.
1) Maybe a little on the bottom end but it depends on how much advance is ground in. I'd go with no advance and figure you can shift at 6200/6300, but for higher rpm power you might consider 2 degrees retarded.
3) minimal tuning; probably just a MAFT. Even with a MAFT, a wideband dyno session is the way to do it right. Personally, I think EDIT is a good investment (and a requirement if you had an A4)
4) yes
5) more SOTP gain than any of your other mods taken individually.
7) Use the XE lobes which are ~ .550 lift. They will have better drivability and idle. Consider a 216/222 115 with zero or +2 advance on XE ramps. Better idle than your .534 ramps and the extra exhaust duration will help.