Water in oil pan and oil in exhaust after 5 year nap
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Well my car has been sitting for almost 5 years in my driveway(02 ss m6) and has not been moved, touched or started until today. well attempted a start.... about a year ago the oil pan cracked. so yesterday i brought into the garage and started the mission. what i've found so far is it appears there was water in the oil pan. not coolant, just water and oil(i have a full rad of red coolant). the oil pan did break on the first night of real cold temps last winter. it appers that water is running from the cowl onto the top of the intake. that area is still wet also.
now, as i had the front of the car raised, i noticed oil coming out of the y-pipe/intermediate pipe junction. about a 6in by 6in puddle on the floor
so i put the oil pan in the car and will attempt to start it once i figure out why my pcm isn't send pwer to my fuel pump relay.
should i just assume i'm wasting my time and start looking for another motor?
now, as i had the front of the car raised, i noticed oil coming out of the y-pipe/intermediate pipe junction. about a 6in by 6in puddle on the floor
so i put the oil pan in the car and will attempt to start it once i figure out why my pcm isn't send pwer to my fuel pump relay.
should i just assume i'm wasting my time and start looking for another motor?
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you had a garage and still had it outside for 5 years? Poor ss. I'd say you probably are looking at a rebuild. I wouldn't gamble.
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yes mother nature wasn't kind to it. i dont have a garage, just finally had the funds to fix the trans and then use a garage. i just cant understand why the water is clear but i have bright red coolant in the car. and if the block did crack, where was so much oil sitting in the top end.
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I hear you. It would have tore at my soul to see my car sit for so long. I do know that the water will collect under the intake and if it froze maybe sperated the intake runner gaskets enough to let water/moisture get in to the intake runners then into the top of the piston maybe leaking down the walls into the pan?
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Either way...I smell a full tear down rebuild or new block in your future. Sitting for so long with moisture hanging around not getting burned off probably not a pleasant sight inside. Hope I'm wrong though
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I think the water is just condensation. CONFIRM the engine is bad before pulling it.
Get the new pan on, pull the spark plugs and fuel injector fuses and crank the engine a bunch with fresh oil & filter. Use a cheap lightweight oil. Use a decent filter like M1 Extended, Wix, Hastings, etc. (NO NEVER FRAM). Make sure there's good oil pressure during cranking. Listen for weird valve train noises. I'd even pull the valve covers to check the springs.
Drain the oil and see if there's any water left.
If all looks & sounds good, install the plugs & fuses, fresh good oil & filter and start it up.
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NO.
I think the water is just condensation. CONFIRM the engine is bad before pulling it.
Get the new pan on, pull the spark plugs and fuel injector fuses and crank the engine a bunch with fresh oil & filter. Use a cheap lightweight oil. Use a decent filter like M1 Extended, Wix, Hastings, etc. (NO NEVER FRAM). Make sure there's good oil pressure during cranking. Listen for weird valve train noises. I'd even pull the valve covers to check the springs.
Drain the oil and see if there's any water left.
If all looks & sounds good, install the plugs & fuses, fresh good oil & filter and start it up.
I think the water is just condensation. CONFIRM the engine is bad before pulling it.
Get the new pan on, pull the spark plugs and fuel injector fuses and crank the engine a bunch with fresh oil & filter. Use a cheap lightweight oil. Use a decent filter like M1 Extended, Wix, Hastings, etc. (NO NEVER FRAM). Make sure there's good oil pressure during cranking. Listen for weird valve train noises. I'd even pull the valve covers to check the springs.
Drain the oil and see if there's any water left.
If all looks & sounds good, install the plugs & fuses, fresh good oil & filter and start it up.
Do what Paul said and then go from there.
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yeah i did get the oil pan in the car already and also checked the crank. from what i could see thru the windage tray it wasn't rusty.
not till i was cleaning up and getting ready to fire it up did a notice a puddle of oil towards the back of the car, dripping from y-pipe intermediate pipe junction. the car was untouched for all those years and didn't have any motor problems when parked. i just cant seem to figure out how enough oil would stay in the top end so long to leak into the exhaust. no clue.
i can agree with condensation as the oil filter even had water in it. but also the rear of the intake seem to have a spot the water collects.
i tried to fire the car and it does need a fuel pump. it also needs more i guess because no power is being sent to the relay from the pcm.
i will note the car will not start on starting fluid. i pulled intake hose off throttle body, held throttle open then sprayed. put hose back on. it fires kinda like its tryin though. i will have to find a fuel pump cheaper that 369.99 first. i'm going to pull the plugs right now. i'll let u know what i find. thanks for the info.
not till i was cleaning up and getting ready to fire it up did a notice a puddle of oil towards the back of the car, dripping from y-pipe intermediate pipe junction. the car was untouched for all those years and didn't have any motor problems when parked. i just cant seem to figure out how enough oil would stay in the top end so long to leak into the exhaust. no clue.
i can agree with condensation as the oil filter even had water in it. but also the rear of the intake seem to have a spot the water collects.
i tried to fire the car and it does need a fuel pump. it also needs more i guess because no power is being sent to the relay from the pcm.
i will note the car will not start on starting fluid. i pulled intake hose off throttle body, held throttle open then sprayed. put hose back on. it fires kinda like its tryin though. i will have to find a fuel pump cheaper that 369.99 first. i'm going to pull the plugs right now. i'll let u know what i find. thanks for the info.
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well i pulled all plugs. no oil found on them. i did notice most had droplets of water on them. no rust, but i'm puttin in new ones.
had someone crank it over for a second. nothing seen shooting out of plug holes. no noises heard
sprayed wd 40 in each cylinder. i cranked it good this time. it held a steady oil pressure of 50-60 psi during cranking. it held this for 10-15 seconds. isn't that high? i will continue to do this daily until i get the fuel pump.
i must now put a fuel pump in it and see what happens. i am actually going to research what fuel pump motor will fit into my sending unit. i live down the street from two junkyards and work within blocks of some more. i'm gonna put a junkyard pump motor in and see...... i've made up my mind. if it needs a motor its going up for sale.
had someone crank it over for a second. nothing seen shooting out of plug holes. no noises heard
sprayed wd 40 in each cylinder. i cranked it good this time. it held a steady oil pressure of 50-60 psi during cranking. it held this for 10-15 seconds. isn't that high? i will continue to do this daily until i get the fuel pump.
i must now put a fuel pump in it and see what happens. i am actually going to research what fuel pump motor will fit into my sending unit. i live down the street from two junkyards and work within blocks of some more. i'm gonna put a junkyard pump motor in and see...... i've made up my mind. if it needs a motor its going up for sale.
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i've also tested all the wires for the fuel pump any guesses on why the pcm is not sending signal to the relay to turn the pump on. i've tried both sets of keys i have and cycled the alarm on n off. still nothing
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On your car, you'll need to drop the rear end to drop the gas tank to access the fuel pump. Good time to empty out that skunky gas!
As it's a ton of work to replace the pump, I'd suggest you not use some high mileage junkyard pump.
A Racetronix pump alone can be had for $150.00 and with the better wiring harness, $200.00. All this wiring and junk is way worth the additional 50 bucks.
As it's a ton of work to replace the pump, I'd suggest you not use some high mileage junkyard pump.
A Racetronix pump alone can be had for $150.00 and with the better wiring harness, $200.00. All this wiring and junk is way worth the additional 50 bucks.
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i cut out an access door for the fuel pump. i've seen it in other write-ups and am pretty good with sheetmetal work. it turned out good. believe me, if the motor is good i'm going to invest in a good fuel pump. just dont want to keep throwing money at it right now. thanks for the link though
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Take the plugs out and put some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders to make sure the rings are free and to give some lubrication.
Find out why you aren't getting any power to the fuel pump before you just up and replace it.
After you get the fuel pumping again take the feed line off the rail and cycle the key several times to flush all the nasty **** out of the lines.
Also put some seafoam or other good injector cleaner in the new fuel to try and get the nasty fuel out of the injectors.
It's going to smoke and smell like *** when you first start it. LOL.
And thumbs up to whoever said you will need a full rebuild.
Find out why you aren't getting any power to the fuel pump before you just up and replace it.
After you get the fuel pumping again take the feed line off the rail and cycle the key several times to flush all the nasty **** out of the lines.
Also put some seafoam or other good injector cleaner in the new fuel to try and get the nasty fuel out of the injectors.
It's going to smoke and smell like *** when you first start it. LOL.
And thumbs up to whoever said you will need a full rebuild.
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