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Old Mar 17, 2013 | 05:27 PM
  #41  
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Hmm yeah that does make sense. Would I have to worry about ptv clearance with this setup with 040 gaskets? Where is the best place and brand for head gaskets?
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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I would be led to believe that since the engine is going .020" over that you're using aftermarket pistons correct?

If so you would have not one issue in the world with P to V. In that case as well, if you are using aftermarket pistons I would mill the heads AND use a thinner gasket to get compression as high as possible for the fuel you'll be using.

I like using the thinner gasket for what 96caprice mentioned. Improved quench and the engine will actually use less timing to make more power from the added efficiency the tighter quench will bring with it.
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
I would be led to believe that since the engine is going .020" over that you're using aftermarket pistons correct?

If so you would have not one issue in the world with P to V. In that case as well, if you are using aftermarket pistons I would mill the heads AND use a thinner gasket to get compression as high as possible for the fuel you'll be using.

I like using the thinner gasket for what 96caprice mentioned. Improved quench and the engine will actually use less timing to make more power from the added efficiency the tighter quench will bring with it.
The pistons are Speed Pro Hypereutetic dished (same style as stock LQ4). Why would aftermarket pistons make me not have to worry about p to v clearance? I would be using 91 octane here in rural Sasktchewan if someone can calculate how much to mill with an .040 gasket.?
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 09:23 PM
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why do folks do stuff like that? If you are going to put a piston in it why not put a good piston in?
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
why do folks do stuff like that? If you are going to put a piston in it why not put a good piston in?
The machine shop reccomended them so thats what I went with.
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #46  
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next time use a different shop.
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Old Mar 18, 2013 | 09:43 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
next time use a different shop.
Lol, we were looking into forged pistons but they decided stock would work well enough for my application.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 07:42 AM
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could have done flat top even staying with a cheap piston......................
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
could have done flat top even staying with a cheap piston......................
That would require new rods from what I have read
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 11:50 AM
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Wiseco has Pro Tru pistons that use stock rods for a good price.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Tooley
Wiseco has Pro Tru pistons that use stock rods for a good price.
Do you have a part number? I already have the speed pros pressed on the rods. Is it really worth changing them over?
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 01:31 PM
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PT124HS for standard bore, PT124H05 for .005" over
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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[QUOTE=Brian Tooley;17241459]PT124HS for standard bore, PT124H05 for .005" over[/QUOTE
My cylinders are .020" over.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 95stro
The pistons are Speed Pro Hypereutetic dished (same style as stock LQ4). Why would aftermarket pistons make me not have to worry about p to v clearance? I would be using 91 octane here in rural Sasktchewan if someone can calculate how much to mill with an .040 gasket.?
Because aftermarket pistons with valve reliefs will give you over .160-.200 additional P to V clearance easily. Volia! No more P to V worries...

I agree on the pistons if you haven't bought them yet.
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Because aftermarket pistons with valve reliefs will give you over .160-.200 additional P to V clearance easily. Volia! No more P to V worries...

I agree on the pistons if you haven't bought them yet.
I already have the pistons and the cylinders bored, just waiting on bearings to get here hopefully next week. So I guess assemble, then check PTV clearances to see how much I can get milled off the heads?
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 95stro
I already have the pistons and the cylinders bored, just waiting on bearings to get here hopefully next week. So I guess assemble, then check PTV clearances to see how much I can get milled off the heads?
Yes that is your best bet!
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 06:42 PM
  #57  
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What valvebody is in the that 200-4r?

Is is a CZ(monte ss), BR(turbo buick), AA(lame *** caddy trans),or ???

The reason I ask is that the shift points are controlled by the gov. tied to the speedo gear, and with all but the Monte SS valvebody,and gov. they are going to shift around 5500 rpm at WOT, the Monte trans may extend that to 5800-6000 if you are lucky.

So unless you are going full manual valve body, with a constant pressure TV system, you will want something that can give some power down low,and isn't making it's power where the trans will only let it get to in high gear.

If the transmission is going retain the automatic shifts,and if the shifts will happen before the cam can make its power, you will be disappointed.

The D5 will handle all that LQ can throw at it, but only in NA form. You don't have to worry about breaking it, I cut a 1.55 60 foot(@3650 lbs) in my buick with a stock D5 and a little spray helping the stock turbo. It was a torque monster spraying that little turbo V6.

So keep in mind the shift points on that transmission, when you look at a NA cams.
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by atomic 6
What valvebody is in the that 200-4r?

Is is a CZ(monte ss), BR(turbo buick), AA(lame *** caddy trans),or ???

The reason I ask is that the shift points are controlled by the gov. tied to the speedo gear, and with all but the Monte SS valvebody,and gov. they are going to shift around 5500 rpm at WOT, the Monte trans may extend that to 5800-6000 if you are lucky.

So unless you are going full manual valve body, with a constant pressure TV system, you will want something that can give some power down low,and isn't making it's power where the trans will only let it get to in high gear.

If the transmission is going retain the automatic shifts,and if the shifts will happen before the cam can make its power, you will be disappointed.

The D5 will handle all that LQ can throw at it, but only in NA form. You don't have to worry about breaking it, I cut a 1.55 60 foot(@3650 lbs) in my buick with a stock D5 and a little spray helping the stock turbo. It was a torque monster spraying that little turbo V6.

So keep in mind the shift points on that transmission, when you look at a NA cams.
The trans is a stage 1 Extreme Automatics unit. The valve body is a "BRC" valve body. The info on the stage 1 says that it is calibrated for 5000rpm shifts. With my current l31 350 WOT shifts are all around or above 5500 rpm. If I manually shift it the rpms are higher. This will mostly be a cruiser and will not see the track often if at all. I dont know a lot about these transmissions so your input is appreciated!
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