gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I've just noticed that your signature says that your truck has been stolen.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Yep. Its been a rough weekend. Last Friday I went on a date with my wife. When we came out of the movies, my truck was gone.

I'm trying not to think about it and just accept that it is gone. Focusing on other projects in the garage.

Gunslinger09

Sorry to hear that man.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man. Yea, it hurts to lose something you put so much time and passion into.

Everybody else, learn from my mistake. Install other thief deterrents besides the factory security. Especially if its an easy target like the older 80's vehicles.

I never thought somebody would steal a truck that was primered and painted five different colors... I hear rumor now that some criminals steal them just for metal recycle value alone.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

BUT HEY! lets not get off the subject. We've got a great thread going here.

I've got a thread started on my stolen truck here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/southern-...sville-al.html

I dont know if that was the correct place to post it or not. A lil confused. But at least I posted it. lol

SSCamaroSteve

sorry to hear about your truck man good luck on getting it back. ive been searching for days for dimensions and tolerances on the sbc and ls valve styles and i cant find anything. just what i can measure myself. if the valves are in fact shorter than a shorter spring and sbc style locks would accomodate that just fine. the issue im seeing is the degree for rocker arm pitch. consider that the valve is .200 shorter using a spacer or just stock pocket that would mean that the valve would operate normally. exception is the rocker arm. so does any one know the stock rocker style 1.6 1.7 i have no idea on that and also does that ratio turn out to be an actual figure? for example. if you swap 1.6s to 1.7s how much lift would you gain without changing rods. .075? .100? what does the ratio refer to. if we can figure that out then i can compesate shorter valves with a larger ratio and remain exact to the cam specs. if all this is possible then i can do a write up on how to do the heads. it would be easy without a mill even... and then we can all go get better flowing way cheaper valves for our motors. how many other people have some badass valves or a set of springs and retainers that they cant use now. id love to get this figured out. then we can use all the sbc stuff that people are selling like crazy to go buy an ls1

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Stock LS1 rocker ratio is 1.7

Sounds like you got enough info gathered to start a thread on that subject.

I was wondering how that may throw of the rocker angle also.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, we're looking for AGearHead4Life's stolen truck.
Thanks in advance!

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thanks gMag!

64post

iTrader: (5)

Sorry to hear about your truck, maybe with a some luck you get it back. Just wanted to say after watching your vids. on youtube that you can get real nice results with your final touch up using conical shape cartridge rolls (tootsie). Regular cylinder shape ones have their place but take longer to finish up ports and don't leave a real nice finish. You can get the cone shaped rolls from Harbor Freight stores in a pack for $21 for 40, half the pack is regular and half the pack is cone shaped and the pack comes with 2 new short mandrels. I buy a new pack of these every time I start a new set of heads. Once you use the longer cone shape rolls you'll never be using the regular ones. Spray some WD-40 on your steel carbides when using them on aluminum, it will keep em from loading up. Wax just doesn't work as well. Good luck.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

THanks man. I hope it shows up to. LSXTV.com just posted an article on it. That should help out. I've started another thread on that subject here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...lsxtv-com.html

You've got some great points here and thank you for contributing. I really do like the cone shaped rolls but found them harder to find packaged alone. I may not be looking in the right place. But I like your stagey of just picking up a package from HF for each job. I may consider that approach. I have found that I dont use the short shanks though. I always use the 6" shank. Thats probably what turned me off from the HF pack. That Plus having to buy the regular cylinder shaped ones also when I don't need them.

Also, I didnt realize the lube would help keep the steel cutter carbides from clogging. I'll have to try that. I do hate cleaning the aluminum out of the steel cutters though.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Friday night bump.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Good bump. I think this is a good thread.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

Sorry about your truck being taken but then again its easiest GM truck to steal just about.
I dont mind helping anyone with advise. I was pretty busy with alot of different stuff during the time you contacted me so it may not have been as in depth as I normally would have indulged.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Bo!

I was thankful that you took the time to reply to my email. Still thankful and look forward to meeting you one day. You're not that far from me.

Thanks again!

Jadedbird

iTrader: (27)

Great videos

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thank you Jadedbird!

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for making the videos. Sorry to hear about your truck. That really sucks. I'm about to start porting a set of 317 heads for my turbo truck project. I probably won't go as aggressive as you, but being able to see videos certainly helped.


Thanks.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thats Great iregret! Glad you found this useful. Thats what this thread and website is all about. Awesome.

One thing I will say is that removal of that rocker stud lump is the most imporant thing to do. I've seen people make great numbers and still leave that swirl ramp. Its that dang rocker lump that causes havock in the intake port. Good luck man! I've got a set of 317's I need to finish for my LQ4 turbo build.

Keep on Wrench'n!

IRNMADN

When the lump is taken out. Does it expose a hole? Some of the pics look like it left a hole in there. Im about to do some 706s. I was referred from my thread over here. I had already watched your vids. Im not even sure where to start. Also have no clue on some of the terms. Swirl ramp.... I plan to run the LS1 intake valve. Should I have that work done before or after I port/polish? And I am planning on 4.8 flat top pistons in my 5.3L. Should I mill the heads for even more of a compression bump? It will be a NA build with a nice cam.