DIY LS1 Head Porting at home can Help
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DIY LS1 Head Porting at home can Help
I dont think that I've started a thread on this yet, but I wanted to make sure that I shared.
I started researching about a year or two ago on how to Do It Yourself LS1 head porting and found great advice from a couple guys on here, Bo White and Mike 97Z M6. (I think I got their screen name correct and sorry if I've forgotten anyone). Thank you again very much for taking the time to share your experience.
when I was researching and learning I found that there were no video on porting LS heads on youtube. So I decided to make some. These would have been a great help when I was starting.
Here is my DIY LS1 Head Porting 10 Part Video Playlist:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6B5A582274C4FA0D
I've only flow tested the first pair of heads that I've done so far and that flow sheet is in the first video. The rest of the videos (the 10 Parts/steps) are of my second pair of heads that I ported. I'm currently working on my fourth pair. I've also attached a spreadsheet comparison of these first pair to others. Not bad being my first time and they're a pair of 853's that'll outflow 243's. I'm sure that with practice and flow bench time I can improve these numbers.
I am no expert and these are beginner videos. They are meant to give another beginner guidance to get started like I once was. All you do is improve as you practice. If you have respectful and professional suggestions or corrects, go ahead and leave the comment under the video and I can add it to the description to advise others.
I'm a big believer in spreading the knowledge.
Enjoy
I started researching about a year or two ago on how to Do It Yourself LS1 head porting and found great advice from a couple guys on here, Bo White and Mike 97Z M6. (I think I got their screen name correct and sorry if I've forgotten anyone). Thank you again very much for taking the time to share your experience.
when I was researching and learning I found that there were no video on porting LS heads on youtube. So I decided to make some. These would have been a great help when I was starting.
Here is my DIY LS1 Head Porting 10 Part Video Playlist:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6B5A582274C4FA0D
I've only flow tested the first pair of heads that I've done so far and that flow sheet is in the first video. The rest of the videos (the 10 Parts/steps) are of my second pair of heads that I ported. I'm currently working on my fourth pair. I've also attached a spreadsheet comparison of these first pair to others. Not bad being my first time and they're a pair of 853's that'll outflow 243's. I'm sure that with practice and flow bench time I can improve these numbers.
I am no expert and these are beginner videos. They are meant to give another beginner guidance to get started like I once was. All you do is improve as you practice. If you have respectful and professional suggestions or corrects, go ahead and leave the comment under the video and I can add it to the description to advise others.
I'm a big believer in spreading the knowledge.
Enjoy
#2
I'm a big believer in spreading the knowledge.
I'm glad to hear that. If I ever have any future questions I'll be sure to call on you. I need a set done. How much you charge for your troubles or is it too much of a hassle. I will check out your videos.
I'm glad to hear that. If I ever have any future questions I'll be sure to call on you. I need a set done. How much you charge for your troubles or is it too much of a hassle. I will check out your videos.
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I did a set of 853's and came up with the exact same #'s using a Superflow 600 and 1/2 radius modeling clay entry. They really show a lot of improvement without losing anything in the low to midlift levels. Got 211 cfm# .600" on the exhaust, 270 cfm @ .600 on intake with stock 2.00" valve. So, a 2.02 with a 30* back cut and good valve job IMHO would show even greater gains but not necessary. Ported OEM heads are really very underrated.
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I actually plan to find a spare head and then do each of the four port sets with a different port job or shaping. Then have them all flowed to see what made what kind of difference. Then once I find what it is that I am looking for, copy it to future jobs. Right now all I'm basically doing on my heads is removing the rocker stud lump and the swirl ramp and then blending everything smooth. (like that nasty limp on one side of the vavle seat). I've heard some people have reached 290 cfm @.600 with a home port job.
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I did a set of 853's and came up with the exact same #'s using a Superflow 600 and 1/2 radius modeling clay entry. They really show a lot of improvement without losing anything in the low to midlift levels. Got 211 cfm# .600" on the exhaust, 270 cfm @ .600 on intake with stock 2.00" valve. So, a 2.02 with a 30* back cut and good valve job IMHO would show even greater gains but not necessary. Ported OEM heads are really very underrated.
I've strongly considered running 2.02's in my current build. Want to keep it a low budget build using as many stock parts as possible though. I wonder how much that improve the flow?
I agree, OEM are greatly underrated. Especially 5.3 heads. They flow the same as LS1 heads but give you a compression bump for free.
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Just for visual you could probably use a garden hose to see how the water flows/seperates as it comes through the bowl/vj/chamber. I would imagine if something is really messed up you would see the water do some funny things. Especially if doing 4 different port jobs.
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With a good vj and diy bowl blend and cleanup coupled with guide boss slimming, you realy shouldnt mess anything up. You are not removing much material, and increasing flow. Its when you change shape and hog areas out, or mess the short side up not allowing the air to make the turn, thats when you can drastically change engine characteristics, usually for the worse.
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as always, hit me up if you have a quesiton and I'll do my best to find you an answer.
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I dyno'd my truck at LS Fest 2012 with which gives me before numbers. I'm now trying to get it dyno'd again with the ported heads on it. I tried once recently but they had software issues with the dyno and then again with the tuning software. All that we found was that I'm running very lean all the way up to 5500 rpm. So once I get these "after" numbers we'll have some idea. Only problem is that its running lean so it wouldnt be a very acurate number of their potential. Plus I'm only running a LS6 cam. I would expect with a larger cam you'd see larger gains. I guess best "after" numbers would be with a tune as well.
Before number on it were 282/279 (in my sig). Its a 84 C10 with a 2001 5.3, '02 LS6 cam through a 4l80e. The 862 have been home ported, .030" mill and LS1 2" intake vavles.
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I guess you may be looking for their peek ability. I wouldnt have that info. As far as drivablility nothing has changed. It drives the same as it did before. I daily drive mine.
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True. Not a bad idea. May not be 100% acurate, but would give you an idea. I try to imagine water flowing though the port as I work them and eliminate rough curves.
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With a good vj and diy bowl blend and cleanup coupled with guide boss slimming, you realy shouldnt mess anything up. You are not removing much material, and increasing flow. Its when you change shape and hog areas out, or mess the short side up not allowing the air to make the turn, thats when you can drastically change engine characteristics, usually for the worse.
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Look at that first photo I posted. (tooting my own horn here) isnt that just the best shot of the obvious factory lumps that need to be removed? Anybody who's taken a photo of a port knows how hard it is to get a good photo out of them. That photo just shows the obvious obstructions in my opinion.
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hahaha you talking about by the injector at the top of the intake port?
You know I dont think that was cast into these 241's I'm currently doing. You know I've always wondered why people say that 241's were better than 853's, but the show the same flow numbers. Now that I'm porting a pair I see why. The back(or top) of the valve seat is beveled/angled into the port, the combustion chamber cast is very very smooth and the Christmas ornament is not cast into the port. These 241's are slightly better in stock form than 853's.
You know I dont think that was cast into these 241's I'm currently doing. You know I've always wondered why people say that 241's were better than 853's, but the show the same flow numbers. Now that I'm porting a pair I see why. The back(or top) of the valve seat is beveled/angled into the port, the combustion chamber cast is very very smooth and the Christmas ornament is not cast into the port. These 241's are slightly better in stock form than 853's.