Just like it says. I read of 383/408/409/422/427 some 396 but I've never came across someone with a 366
Are they only for specified applications???

 

my budsdy is building a 366 actually, offset ground stock crank, forged pistons and rods, T-rex cam, AS 2.75 heads, port matched LS6, with a 80mm TB, but he is thinking of going LSX, should make some great numbers!

 

For the price of offset grinding your crank, you can damn near buy a good 4.00" crank and build a 382. Prices are to close and most people opt for the bigger, forged, application.

 

I see, but a smaller stroker should be capable of handling more rpm. So would a 366 be better than a 382/383 if you were to have a cam that goes above 7000 rpm??? While still benefiting from the extra cubes??

 

If more rpm is the goal, then you'd want to have an all bore motor built.

 

"For the price of offset grinding your crank, you can damn near buy a good 4.00" crank "

highly doubt it. TPs has really good priced setup, not even close to the over priced 4.00 cranks

 

I've also read of some threads about "problems' with offset 396 strokers, would an offset 366 be prone to the same????

BTW I was just checking TSP's, 366 long block, all for $7500

 

Considering you bought a new stock crank and had it offset ground, then you would be at the price of a eagle 4.00" crank@ $820. Not sure how much it cost to offset a crank, but I would guess around $400? I could be pissin in the wind, but I'd rather spend another $400 and have a 382. If your in the market of building a motor anything less than $1k seems to simple for such a upgrade. Forged vs. stock, and extra 16-17 c.i.

 

why buy a new one (crank) you should have a perfectly good one that your using now(current motor). no need to buy a brand new one unless you somehow broke the stock one...

 

Some people build there motors on the side while there car is still running. It eleviates alot of the down time.

 

Offset crank = $300 !

 

BTW anyone here running a 366?? Street strip? or track??

 

Mainly because there is very little purpose in building a 366. A 4" stroke is not a limitation for the RPM 99.9999% of the people are going to turn. Not to mention, there is no reason to spin an engine to the ceiling. If you have the displacement, take advantage of it.

 

For the $1000+ dif on similar build up between a forged 366 and a forged 383, I could put that towards a Mesiere WP and pulley and Dry to wet kit and a Walbro ( not to mention a couple of beers, )

 

The 366 would not be forged. It's still a stock crank.

 

Stock crank is holding lots of horsepower in Futrals 9 sec car. I am looking at the 366 my self for the next rebuild , good rods and pistons are the main thing to look at.

 

Yeap, I'm talking 600/650 hp on juice. Just nitrating the crank should be plenty. But I don't think this is even necessary.

 

critical piston speed as someone already stated will never be reach by 99.99999% of the people here, lol

A QUALITY 4 inch forged crank is still damn near 2k, for 300 bucks 20 cubes is definitely worth it! I beleive he is getting his motor built for about 4500-5000 bucks including the heads and a port matched LS6.

I have a 422 myself, love the motor, but when I do another car it will be a forged 346 with lots of boost a little displacement replacement if you will

 

Hi Nick,
I know what you mean, I'm jugling on a decision between a foged 346/347 and a 366 offset stoker (Still with forged slugs). In any case they will both be sucking some juice

 

FYI, I have seen a few different sized stroker cranks on the market.

I've seen aftermarket cranks in the 4.000 and 4.125 range, but Scat has also made some 3.900 cranks.

I believe that GM custom ordered some 3.77 cranks for some projects and I knew of one that was available, never used for about $1100 PM me if interested.