Need a little input on right combination.....
Do you plan on a higher stall TC? The reason I ask is unless you plan on only running a small cam( 220*or smaller and keep the overlap in the negative) then your going to want a higher stall TC, otherwise you will sacrifice driveability an performance.
The cam is very small by most standards. Big is something where the overlap starts to eclipse 8 degrees @ .050" because then drivability starts to suffer. That cam has 5 degrees overlap - so it'll thump, but drive with good manners and with a good tune, would drive pretty much like stock. And it's not a high RPM cam at all. In a 4.8L it might be. But not in a 5.7L and certainly not in a 6.0L. It's designed to make big torque in the midrange. Btw, most "starter" cams for LS1s are the 224/224 or 224/228. Going any less than that and you're not getting much out of the car. Maybe 25rwhp. Cam like this is good for probably closer to 40rwhp while bumping the torque up as well.
I have a 230/234 114 from EPS. And that cam would rock in anything as long as you have compression. The 224/230 111 doesn't need much compression to work super well and make insane torque. That cam would make more power off-idle than the stock 6.0L does and blow it out of the water all the way up to 6500 RPM or so. I wouldn't hesitate to daily drive that cam even in a 5.3L and it'd be even better in the 6.0L.
And don't get caught up on lift. The EPS lobes are actually some of the easiest on the valvetrain you can buy and which is why I recommend them. They are an endurance lobe designed for stability first, power second. You can run beehives with them and they'd be fine. Though, I would get PAC 1218s or 1518s vs the Comp 918s.
I have a 230/234 114 from EPS. And that cam would rock in anything as long as you have compression. The 224/230 111 doesn't need much compression to work super well and make insane torque. That cam would make more power off-idle than the stock 6.0L does and blow it out of the water all the way up to 6500 RPM or so. I wouldn't hesitate to daily drive that cam even in a 5.3L and it'd be even better in the 6.0L.
And don't get caught up on lift. The EPS lobes are actually some of the easiest on the valvetrain you can buy and which is why I recommend them. They are an endurance lobe designed for stability first, power second. You can run beehives with them and they'd be fine. Though, I would get PAC 1218s or 1518s vs the Comp 918s.
No, I fully intend to run the factory converter. I want to maximize the power in the factory engine operating range. I would be okay giving up a little on the low end cause I'm sure this thing won't hook from a dig anyway, but I don't want it to be a total slug.
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From: Frozen Tundra, WI
This makes a HUGE difference in what people will recommend. It would have been good to have this info before. I am not sure how much experience you have with a higher stall converter but if you get a tight one (higher torque multi ratio) it will drive fairly normal if you are easy on the throttle and it will come alive when you aren't. 
As stated before, definitely stay under 220 if you are convinced that you want the factory stall.
As stated before, definitely stay under 220 if you are convinced that you want the factory stall.
Last edited by Paul57; Mar 30, 2013 at 04:47 AM.
With the factory stall, a Comp Cam custom grind: 214(.595" lxl)/218(.598" lxl) 112lsa +3, it'll have -8*overlap so it should run smooth. For a little more power 213(.602" lsl)/218(.598" lxl) 112lsa +2. with -8.5* overlap, or 215(.604" lsl)/ 218(.598" lxl) 112lsa+4 with -7.5* overlap.
This makes a HUGE difference in what people will recommend. It would have been good to have this info before. I am not sure how much experience you have with a higher stall converter but if you get a tight one (higher torque multi ratio) it will drive fairly normal if you are easy on the throttle and it will come alive when you aren't.
As stated before, definitely stay under 220 if you are convinced that you want the factory stall.
As stated before, definitely stay under 220 if you are convinced that you want the factory stall.
I am familiar with higher stall converters, had a few, it's really just not something I'm looking for in this build. This 6.0 is just temporary until I can get the bugs worked out on the rest of the setup and grow the ***** to drop 6K on a maggy or twin screw. At that point, a higher stall would be pointless, with the rediculous off-idle torque these positive displacement blowers put out.
With the factory stall, a Comp Cam custom grind: 214(.595" lxl)/218(.598" lxl) 112lsa +3, it'll have -8*overlap so it should run smooth. For a little more power 213(.602" lsl)/218(.598" lxl) 112lsa +2. with -8.5* overlap, or 215(.604" lsl)/ 218(.598" lxl) 112lsa+4 with -7.5* overlap.
Last edited by Bowtie316; Mar 30, 2013 at 07:13 AM.
Well the 6.0 that I picked up Thursday night has a junk rod bearing, probably crank and rod as well. Haven't turned it over yet and pulled the pan but I got one piston that has about 1/8" slop up and down. The dude lied directly to my face, told me he heard it run a couple months ago, sounded good, no issues, was going to put it in his truck but decided on a 5.3 instead. It was bad enough that the piston was hitting the head, no way you couldn't hear that. Not sure what to do now, found it on craigslist. I tried to call him, of course he won't answer. But I do know where he lives.
That's why I hate Craigslist.
Btw, that cam I recommended absolutely will not work with a stock stall. There's almost no reason to cam it if you're going to keep the stock stall. Most cams pick up power everywhere over stock, but they do require a larger stall in order to even work or you'll blow through your brakes.
With that said, I'd recommend the LS6 cam. It's a few degrees smaller than a couple of the other suggestions, but it's much cheaper and would work best with the stock stall.
Btw, that cam I recommended absolutely will not work with a stock stall. There's almost no reason to cam it if you're going to keep the stock stall. Most cams pick up power everywhere over stock, but they do require a larger stall in order to even work or you'll blow through your brakes.
With that said, I'd recommend the LS6 cam. It's a few degrees smaller than a couple of the other suggestions, but it's much cheaper and would work best with the stock stall.
If I pick one and don't like it for some reason, I can change it.
Anyway, this project is on hold for right now until I can figure out what to do with this 6.0. I have two 5.3's sitting here so I might just use one of those instead.
Thanks for all the help.
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I have a hard time believing that, but we'll see. Do you say that because the idle will need to be raised?
If I pick one and don't like it for some reason, I can change it.
Anyway, this project is on hold for right now until I can figure out what to do with this 6.0. I have two 5.3's sitting here so I might just use one of those instead.
Thanks for all the help.
If I pick one and don't like it for some reason, I can change it.
Anyway, this project is on hold for right now until I can figure out what to do with this 6.0. I have two 5.3's sitting here so I might just use one of those instead.
Thanks for all the help.
Okay, the LQ4 is going back together now with a clean used crank and rods. Here is my current planned combination.
Will it make decent power and be driveable? I already have everthing except the cam.
Stock LQ4 bore and pistons
4L60E with stock converter
Dart 205 heads (bought from a member) 62cc chamber, should be around 10.3:1 compression???
Truck intake w/ flex fuel injectors
1-5/8 long tube headers with 3" collectors
Lunati voodoo 217/223 with .549/.549 lift on 113 LSA
Will it make decent power and be driveable? I already have everthing except the cam.
Stock LQ4 bore and pistons
4L60E with stock converter
Dart 205 heads (bought from a member) 62cc chamber, should be around 10.3:1 compression???
Truck intake w/ flex fuel injectors
1-5/8 long tube headers with 3" collectors
Lunati voodoo 217/223 with .549/.549 lift on 113 LSA
Yeah the stock stall should work fine, but I'd still recommend a 2600-2800 stall tc for the best driveability and better performance.
http://www.converter.cc/product_p/tr...ls3%202600.htm
http://www.converter.cc/product_p/st...ls3%202800.htm
http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx
http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx
http://www.converter.cc/product_p/tr...ls3%202600.htm
http://www.converter.cc/product_p/st...ls3%202800.htm
http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx
http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Apr 18, 2013 at 05:50 PM.
Patrick G came back with this cam recommendation. I said 2500 rpm stall on the request because I will change it if I need to, I'm going to try it with the stock stall first because I am curious.
220/226 .604”/.604” 113 LSA +2 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
using EPS HiRev lobes.
Recommended valve springs: PAC 1218 or 1518 beehive.
It's just a little bigger than I was originally thinking. I'm just going to go with this and see how it turns out.
220/226 .604”/.604” 113 LSA +2 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
using EPS HiRev lobes.
Recommended valve springs: PAC 1218 or 1518 beehive.
It's just a little bigger than I was originally thinking. I'm just going to go with this and see how it turns out.
Last edited by Bowtie316; May 20, 2013 at 07:36 AM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 859
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From: Frozen Tundra, WI
Patrick G came back with this cam recommendation. I fibbed on the request and said 2500 pm stall, I'm going to try it with the stock stall first because I am curious.
220/226 .604”/.604” 113 LSA +2 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
using EPS HiRev lobes.
Recommended valve springs: PAC 1218 or 1518 beehive.
It's just a little bigger than I was originally thinking. I'm just going to go with this and see how it turns out.
220/226 .604”/.604” 113 LSA +2 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
using EPS HiRev lobes.
Recommended valve springs: PAC 1218 or 1518 beehive.
It's just a little bigger than I was originally thinking. I'm just going to go with this and see how it turns out.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,503
Likes: 177
From: ELSA, South TEXAS (956) 802-7700
there is a similar cam for sale on ls1tech with 218-222 and lift in the low 600s....might be more like what you wanted to use with stock stall and may even save you some bucks....just saying....a thought, an option....
I would have just told him you want it to work good with a stock stall. I'm sure his recommendations would have been different, and it really defeats the purpose of having custom cam specs. IMO, if you go ahead with this cam on the stock stall I'd advance it +2* more to a ICL of 109. That'll move the power band down a little more.