6.0 bottom end strength
Seen people run 750rwhp on stock ls1 bottom ends and that's with even crappier rod bolts how long will it last is another story its a balance between rpms and power and the tune has to be spot on.
Stock bottom end lq4/1q9's have no issues making well over 800whp, although they seem to last the longest around 600-800whp.....
Save the money and leave the stock rod bolts, they aren't needed.....
Save the money and leave the stock rod bolts, they aren't needed.....
Yes you can make big power (800rwhp), but that doesn't mean it will last.
Reliably you can be around 600rwhp keeping the rpms at no more than 6000 and not have issues. Anymore than that and you're really on borrowed time.
Reliably you can be around 600rwhp keeping the rpms at no more than 6000 and not have issues. Anymore than that and you're really on borrowed time.
The motor would prolly be at most 450rwhp with maybe a 100 shot of spray down the road. Just being a budget build the added cost of arp hardware and possibly having to line hone mains and resizing rods would really slow down the build
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You should have no problems with what you are asking it to do, you have a ton of room for more, like others said I would say 600hp is a safe limit before longevity becomes a question.
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I don't know where you guys are getting your information from. I've seen these motors last for several seasons making 800-1000 rwhp STOCK. Who ever said 600ish isn't doing it right. Do your research and you can make lots of HP's with these motors as is. And by as is I mean new head gaskets and head studs
Yes I agree with 800-1000hp as long as rpm's are kept below 6300 . The RPM's are the biggest killer of connecting rods, that is according to what I've read on here almost every day since 2009 . Just an FYI , SDP Skoggin Dickey has the Sportsman ARP rod bolts for $70 and the WS6 store has Scat I-beams for $285 or within a few dollars and They include I believe 7/16" ARP bolts (tough)
IMO...You need to check your priorities when building an engine. I agree there is no magic number as to what power particular parts can/will handle, but what is it worth to you?
I know there are folks out there that have run 1000+hp on stock rod bolts or what ever the part may be, but does that mean it can take it? Obviously no. A lot of it comes down to how you drive it and luck. If you are racing or beating the snot out of it, I guarantee you will not see 100K miles out of the engine. I would venture to say not even 50K or even 25K.
Bottom line...if you have an LS in the car and doing bolt on parts, head, cam, intake etc to gain some ponies....I wouldn't swap out the rod bolts for the hell of it.
Now if I was building an LS, you bet your azz I would buy ARP rod and main bolts. Why would you skimp on the short block to save a few $$ and sacrifice reliability? That's just nuts. If you are going to build it, build it right. You are going to feel like a douch, when you spend $10K+ on a build, saved $50 on rod bolts by using OEM to end up spinning a rod bearing from the bolts stretching at RPMs.
All you are doing is rolling the dice...Is that what you want to do? I would build a solid shortblock...
I know there are folks out there that have run 1000+hp on stock rod bolts or what ever the part may be, but does that mean it can take it? Obviously no. A lot of it comes down to how you drive it and luck. If you are racing or beating the snot out of it, I guarantee you will not see 100K miles out of the engine. I would venture to say not even 50K or even 25K.
Bottom line...if you have an LS in the car and doing bolt on parts, head, cam, intake etc to gain some ponies....I wouldn't swap out the rod bolts for the hell of it.
Now if I was building an LS, you bet your azz I would buy ARP rod and main bolts. Why would you skimp on the short block to save a few $$ and sacrifice reliability? That's just nuts. If you are going to build it, build it right. You are going to feel like a douch, when you spend $10K+ on a build, saved $50 on rod bolts by using OEM to end up spinning a rod bearing from the bolts stretching at RPMs.
All you are doing is rolling the dice...Is that what you want to do? I would build a solid shortblock...
Couple things..like I said earlier its a BUDGET build idk where you got $10k from. This motor may be driven at most 1,000k miles a year just to drive around town and smoke the tires I won't be hitting the high banks of Daytona with this. When I get the block I'm going to crack it open no matter what and at least replace the bearings and buy OEM rod bolts
Food for though.
I just gernaded my LQ9 this weekend (entirely my fault). It is stock, stock heads and cam. Headers, Intake and a big carb. MSD rev limiter set to 6300rpm, and i was bouncing it consistently coming out of corners. Without any notice rod #7 let go. I am now on the hunt for another short block but i will be purchasing rod bolts and having the rods resized with now hesitation.
This is in my 4500LB off road race truck
I just gernaded my LQ9 this weekend (entirely my fault). It is stock, stock heads and cam. Headers, Intake and a big carb. MSD rev limiter set to 6300rpm, and i was bouncing it consistently coming out of corners. Without any notice rod #7 let go. I am now on the hunt for another short block but i will be purchasing rod bolts and having the rods resized with now hesitation.
This is in my 4500LB off road race truck
800-1000rwhp on the stock bottom end? What?
As an auto trans guy, I could compare a 4L80E to an LQ4. The 4L80E will hold a lot of power in stock form, but with power levels over 800 or if using a shot of nitrous, you should always upgrade to a billet input shaft and a forward hub at minimum for longevity purposes. The parts are much stronger and made to handle the added power thrown at them. Are there people who run stock internals and the trans will live at 1,000 hp for a couple of seasons? Sure, but those are the exceptions much more than the rule.
Same kind of thing can apply here. Instead of a 4L80E, an input shaft and a hub, we're talking about an LQ4, pistons and rods. The suggestion for the Scats is a pretty nice one, and they are a quality rod for a budget price. The Scat I-beams are a nice forged design with a light reciprocating weight, and come with the ARP 8470s standard, and the 2000s for a small upgrade fee.
As an auto trans guy, I could compare a 4L80E to an LQ4. The 4L80E will hold a lot of power in stock form, but with power levels over 800 or if using a shot of nitrous, you should always upgrade to a billet input shaft and a forward hub at minimum for longevity purposes. The parts are much stronger and made to handle the added power thrown at them. Are there people who run stock internals and the trans will live at 1,000 hp for a couple of seasons? Sure, but those are the exceptions much more than the rule.
Same kind of thing can apply here. Instead of a 4L80E, an input shaft and a hub, we're talking about an LQ4, pistons and rods. The suggestion for the Scats is a pretty nice one, and they are a quality rod for a budget price. The Scat I-beams are a nice forged design with a light reciprocating weight, and come with the ARP 8470s standard, and the 2000s for a small upgrade fee.