About to start my first cam swap. Have some questions
#21
I also forgot to tell you just buy the arp crank bolt. I had to remove my crank pulley after I had it torqued down so I needed to buy another bolt, I got smarter and just bought the arp do to it not being a torque to spec bolt. So you can re use it next time you tear the car apart, in case you pinch the oil pump pick up o ring!
#23
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I bought a threaded rod (M16 threaded rod x 2.0 pitch) and cut it to 6.5" and placed a few washers on it and a nut..
then you thread the whole rod into the crank till it bottoms out, install pulley, places a couple washers (I added arp lube to the washers for less resistance) then add the nut. Slowly tighten the nut and it will push the pulley on and its the safest way since its completely threaded in and has the strength of every single thread instead of just a few with the "bolt" method listed on ls1howto.com.
the arp bolt is here
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...FaI-MgodhDAAOA
#26
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OP who is tuning the car. That is the cam I have in mine. Speed inc tuned. I have y pipe on mine but I am switching to true duals so I am interested in the numbers you put down. And a sound clip. For me the hardest part was getting the stock crank pulley off had to get so many different pullers.
#27
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I've always had good luck heating the crank pulley at 400 or so degrees for 10-20 minutes and threading it down with the arp bolt. That said, I may buy the crank install tool for my next cam swap.
#28
Update. Intake, water pump, radiator are all removed. Got the crank pulley halfway off and the 3 claw puller snapped
Fortunately I borrowed a Snap On puller from a friend, I also went out today and bought the 3/8th inch steel dowel rods so if one of the lifters decide to fall I should be okay. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work in it. I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow night.
Also I'm getting it dyno tuned at Rapid Motorsports in Birdsboro, PA. They're a sponsor on here. I will keep you guys updated, I'm having fun so far!
Fortunately I borrowed a Snap On puller from a friend, I also went out today and bought the 3/8th inch steel dowel rods so if one of the lifters decide to fall I should be okay. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work in it. I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow night.
Also I'm getting it dyno tuned at Rapid Motorsports in Birdsboro, PA. They're a sponsor on here. I will keep you guys updated, I'm having fun so far!
#29
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Update. Intake, water pump, radiator are all removed. Got the crank pulley halfway off and the 3 claw puller snapped
Fortunately I borrowed a Snap On puller from a friend, I also went out today and bought the 3/8th inch steel dowel rods so if one of the lifters decide to fall I should be okay. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work in it. I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow night.
Also I'm getting it dyno tuned at Rapid Motorsports in Birdsboro, PA. They're a sponsor on here. I will keep you guys updated, I'm having fun so far!
Fortunately I borrowed a Snap On puller from a friend, I also went out today and bought the 3/8th inch steel dowel rods so if one of the lifters decide to fall I should be okay. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work in it. I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow night.
Also I'm getting it dyno tuned at Rapid Motorsports in Birdsboro, PA. They're a sponsor on here. I will keep you guys updated, I'm having fun so far!
#31
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ALWAYS replace the lifters if you have miles on them. Good set of LS7 lifters are pretty cheap and you will feel warm and fuzzy when you put it back together and dont have to have that crap i probably should have changed them when you button things up.
#32
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Update. Intake, water pump, radiator are all removed. Got the crank pulley halfway off and the 3 claw puller snapped
Fortunately I borrowed a Snap On puller from a friend, I also went out today and bought the 3/8th inch steel dowel rods so if one of the lifters decide to fall I should be okay. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work in it. I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow night.
Also I'm getting it dyno tuned at Rapid Motorsports in Birdsboro, PA. They're a sponsor on here. I will keep you guys updated, I'm having fun so far!
Fortunately I borrowed a Snap On puller from a friend, I also went out today and bought the 3/8th inch steel dowel rods so if one of the lifters decide to fall I should be okay. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work in it. I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow night.
Also I'm getting it dyno tuned at Rapid Motorsports in Birdsboro, PA. They're a sponsor on here. I will keep you guys updated, I'm having fun so far!
#33
Personally, I tend to feel that if you're going to take on this kind of job, you want it done right the first time. Spend the money on a Katech chain, Melling pump, LS7 lifters, LS2 lifter trays, MLS head gaskets, etc. Yes, it'll add another $500 in expenses roughly. However, you'll have the piece of mind knowing that you having fresh components. Imagine how pissed you'd be if you shattered a lifter and ruined the motor, when it could've been prevented with a little time, money, and sweat.
#35
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I'm in the middle of getting the last of my parts, waterpump and LS6 valley cover. I picked up Comp Cams set of lifters and will get it all done beginning of next month. My lifters sound like they are on their last leg, at least the ones on the passenger side, 89K miles with about 30K with the bigger cam on the stock lifters.
#37
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Still looking for the video but here is the write up about it:
DON’T LET THE LIFTERS FALL
Performing a camshaft change on a GM LS engine is fairly easy, thanks to the design of the plastic lifter guides. After removing the water pump, crank pulley and front cover, loosen all rocker arms and remove the pushrods. Rotate the crank twice (360 degrees). This will allow the cam lobes to push the roller lifters up into the lifter trays, where a slight interference fit in the lifter buckets will hold them up and away from the camshaft. This allows you to remove the cam (and install the new cam) without the need to remove the lifters from the engine. That’s the factory method.
However, here’s a tip: (Which is what most of us here know about) While the slight interference fit of the lifters in the lifter guides (trays/buckets) should be sufficient to hold the lifters up, the possibility exists for one or more lifters to accidentally drop down into the cam tunnel, which would require cylinder head removal in order to retrieve the lifter(s).
To avoid this, once the lifters have been popped up into their buckets, and before removing the camshaft, insert a pair of 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch diameter steel rods into the lifter galley oil passages at the front of the engine (off to each side of the cam). Each rod should be about 24 inches long. With these rods in place, even if a lifter tried to drop down, it can’t drop far enough to disengage from the lifter bucket guide.
Once the new cam is installed, remove the temporary steel rods. Install the pushrods, and pop the lifters down onto the cam by simply pushing on the pushrods. Complete the reassembly and you’re done.
Using these “fail-safe” rods will save you tons of extra work in case one or more lifters try to drop down.
DON’T LET THE LIFTERS FALL
Performing a camshaft change on a GM LS engine is fairly easy, thanks to the design of the plastic lifter guides. After removing the water pump, crank pulley and front cover, loosen all rocker arms and remove the pushrods. Rotate the crank twice (360 degrees). This will allow the cam lobes to push the roller lifters up into the lifter trays, where a slight interference fit in the lifter buckets will hold them up and away from the camshaft. This allows you to remove the cam (and install the new cam) without the need to remove the lifters from the engine. That’s the factory method.
However, here’s a tip: (Which is what most of us here know about) While the slight interference fit of the lifters in the lifter guides (trays/buckets) should be sufficient to hold the lifters up, the possibility exists for one or more lifters to accidentally drop down into the cam tunnel, which would require cylinder head removal in order to retrieve the lifter(s).
To avoid this, once the lifters have been popped up into their buckets, and before removing the camshaft, insert a pair of 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch diameter steel rods into the lifter galley oil passages at the front of the engine (off to each side of the cam). Each rod should be about 24 inches long. With these rods in place, even if a lifter tried to drop down, it can’t drop far enough to disengage from the lifter bucket guide.
Once the new cam is installed, remove the temporary steel rods. Install the pushrods, and pop the lifters down onto the cam by simply pushing on the pushrods. Complete the reassembly and you’re done.
Using these “fail-safe” rods will save you tons of extra work in case one or more lifters try to drop down.
#39
Well guys, she's running! Oil pressures good, no leaks or majo noises. I took it ffor a ride (didn't beat on it) and I layer into it a little and it felt like it just didn't wanna go, it's not missing or anything. Is this normal for an unturned cam only car? It's the Speed Inc SI5 cam. I believe it's a 231/237 112lsa