How do you break in a cam on a LS1?
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Staging Lane
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From: milwaukee
How do you break in a cam on a LS1? I've done plenty on big and small block Chevies. With those engines you start them up and let them idle at 2000rpm's for 20 minutes. How do you do it with LS1's? How do you set the idle up to 2000rpm's? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? I was told that you sit there and keep the rpm's up at 2k for 20 -30 mins. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
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Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? I don't know about 30 min. 20 should be good. And you don't have to just hold it there. Above idle and up to 2k. Just don't let it sit and idle. That should do it.
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? I never knew u had to. I always thought it was hydrulic so when oil get's on it's great out of the box. So it should be fine, if u just throw it in and go.
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Staging Lane
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From: milwaukee
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Blue99Ws7:
<strong> I never knew u had to. I always thought it was hydrulic so when oil get's on it's great out of the box. So it should be fine, if u just throw it in and go. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've only done hydraulic cams. All the instructions on these big and small block cam swaps said break it in for 20 minutes at 2000rpm's.
<strong> I never knew u had to. I always thought it was hydrulic so when oil get's on it's great out of the box. So it should be fine, if u just throw it in and go. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've only done hydraulic cams. All the instructions on these big and small block cam swaps said break it in for 20 minutes at 2000rpm's.
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? There is no 'break-in' for hydraulic-roller cams. You only need to heat cycle the valve springs a few times. (Bring them to operating temperature, then let them cool to air temp)
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in.
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in.
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Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by xaon:
<strong> There is no 'break-in' for hydraulic-roller cams. You only need to heat cycle the valve springs a few times. (Bring them to operating temperature, then let them cool to air temp)
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">now that's scary! it has been a regular practice to break in a cam with approximately 30 minutes of varying engine rpm's for quite some time.
why would you not use assembly lube? it won't hurt and won't run all over the place like oil.
<strong> There is no 'break-in' for hydraulic-roller cams. You only need to heat cycle the valve springs a few times. (Bring them to operating temperature, then let them cool to air temp)
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">now that's scary! it has been a regular practice to break in a cam with approximately 30 minutes of varying engine rpm's for quite some time.
why would you not use assembly lube? it won't hurt and won't run all over the place like oil.
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Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> There is no 'break-in' for hydraulic-roller cams. You only need to heat cycle the valve springs a few times. (Bring them to operating temperature, then let them cool to air temp)
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">diddo
ive done over 20 cam swaps and thats the way. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">diddo
ive done over 20 cam swaps and thats the way. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />
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Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Texas Terminator:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by xaon:
<strong> There is no 'break-in' for hydraulic-roller cams. You only need to heat cycle the valve springs a few times. (Bring them to operating temperature, then let them cool to air temp)
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">now that's scary! it has been a regular practice to break in a cam with approximately 30 minutes of varying engine rpm's for quite some time.
why would you not use assembly lube? it won't hurt and won't run all over the place like oil. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That is only for hydraulic and solid flat tappet cams. They need assembly lube and high rpms on start up to splash oil on the lobes while the lobes and bottom of the lifters establish a wear pattern. Roller lifters do not wear in to the cam lobes, so no assembly lube or high rpm on start up is needed.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by xaon:
<strong> There is no 'break-in' for hydraulic-roller cams. You only need to heat cycle the valve springs a few times. (Bring them to operating temperature, then let them cool to air temp)
You also do not use assembly lube when doing a cam install in an LS1, just dump some motor oil on it before sliding it in. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">now that's scary! it has been a regular practice to break in a cam with approximately 30 minutes of varying engine rpm's for quite some time.
why would you not use assembly lube? it won't hurt and won't run all over the place like oil. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That is only for hydraulic and solid flat tappet cams. They need assembly lube and high rpms on start up to splash oil on the lobes while the lobes and bottom of the lifters establish a wear pattern. Roller lifters do not wear in to the cam lobes, so no assembly lube or high rpm on start up is needed.
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Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? Just to confirm (since 3-4 people posted the wrong answer at the beginning of this thread), there is no breakin needed for the camshaft. Toss it in, and have fun. You do need to get 1-2 heat cycles on the springs though just to be safe before you take the rpm's too high.
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? The explanation given to me for not using assembly lube on our cam is that the lube can clog the oil pump. <img border="0" alt="[bomb]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bomb.gif" />
I just took a half quart or so of motor oil and poured it over the cam, then slid it into place in the motor.
When you pull out your stock cam, you can look at the lobes and understand why it needs no lube or break in. There is only a faint marking made where the roller on the lifter rides at.
New cam on left, stock cam on right.
http://www.cepheid.org/~kris/photos/...l/p1010052.jpg
I just took a half quart or so of motor oil and poured it over the cam, then slid it into place in the motor.
When you pull out your stock cam, you can look at the lobes and understand why it needs no lube or break in. There is only a faint marking made where the roller on the lifter rides at.
New cam on left, stock cam on right.
http://www.cepheid.org/~kris/photos/...l/p1010052.jpg
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? I'm in with the no break in on the Cam club <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Like said before ,Heat cycle the new springs.For 918's I go the extra step and heat cycle 4-5 times by keeping rpm under 3,000.Has worked for me so far <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Like said before ,Heat cycle the new springs.For 918's I go the extra step and heat cycle 4-5 times by keeping rpm under 3,000.Has worked for me so far <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? Heat cycling is just a matter of bringing them to operating temp and then letting them cool back down.
Start the car up. you can let it idle until you get it to operating temp, or you can easily drive it around until it gets to operating temp. Then bring the car back home/shop/wherever, and let it cool completely down. Do this 2-3 times and you'll be good to go.
FWIW. I did two heat cycles on my springs before I even took it off the jackstands. The third, I just drove around the neighborhood until I was up to temp, then came back to the house and parked it in the driveway for a couple hours.
Start the car up. you can let it idle until you get it to operating temp, or you can easily drive it around until it gets to operating temp. Then bring the car back home/shop/wherever, and let it cool completely down. Do this 2-3 times and you'll be good to go.
FWIW. I did two heat cycles on my springs before I even took it off the jackstands. The third, I just drove around the neighborhood until I was up to temp, then came back to the house and parked it in the driveway for a couple hours.
Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 66ImpalaLT1:
<strong> No breakin on the cam, just heat cycle the engine for the springs.
After you're done heat cycling, do a burnout out of the garage.
Eric </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I called Comp cam myself because I'll be installing the 224/.581/112 LSA soon. They said to break it in by idleing it at 2000rpms for 20 minutes and use assembly lube when installing.
<strong> No breakin on the cam, just heat cycle the engine for the springs.
After you're done heat cycling, do a burnout out of the garage.
Eric </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I called Comp cam myself because I'll be installing the 224/.581/112 LSA soon. They said to break it in by idleing it at 2000rpms for 20 minutes and use assembly lube when installing.
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Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? [QUOTE:] "I called Comp cam myself because I'll be installing the 224/.581/112 LSA soon. They said to break it in by idleing it at 2000rpms for 20 minutes and use assembly lube when installing".
And, I would bet you talked to a salesman that told you that line of crap. I can tell you one thing; A Comp Cams engineer would tell you otherwise.
Roller cams do NOT need a 2,000 / 20 minute spin cycle to assure the proper initial wear pattern that a flat tappet cam requires.
Hey, if you want to spin the engine 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm, have at it. You won't hurt anything, but again, you won't acomplish anything either.
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<small>[ March 10, 2003, 05:59 PM: Message edited by: Kimchee and Rice ]</small>
And, I would bet you talked to a salesman that told you that line of crap. I can tell you one thing; A Comp Cams engineer would tell you otherwise.
Roller cams do NOT need a 2,000 / 20 minute spin cycle to assure the proper initial wear pattern that a flat tappet cam requires.
Hey, if you want to spin the engine 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm, have at it. You won't hurt anything, but again, you won't acomplish anything either.
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<small>[ March 10, 2003, 05:59 PM: Message edited by: Kimchee and Rice ]</small>
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Re: How do you break in a cam on a LS1? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ss1le02:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 66ImpalaLT1:
<strong> No breakin on the cam, just heat cycle the engine for the springs.
After you're done heat cycling, do a burnout out of the garage.
Eric </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I called Comp cam myself because I'll be installing the 224/.581/112 LSA soon. They said to break it in by idleing it at 2000rpms for 20 minutes and use assembly lube when installing. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Then in that case, get his name and don't use his advice in the future..
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 66ImpalaLT1:
<strong> No breakin on the cam, just heat cycle the engine for the springs.
After you're done heat cycling, do a burnout out of the garage.
Eric </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I called Comp cam myself because I'll be installing the 224/.581/112 LSA soon. They said to break it in by idleing it at 2000rpms for 20 minutes and use assembly lube when installing. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Then in that case, get his name and don't use his advice in the future..