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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 10:50 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
And Bob the Oil Guy forum has analysis of LS engines using various oils. German Castrol is still considered one of the absolute best and now the Valvoline VR1 oil is looking mighty great as well.

Both can be had at AutoZone or Amazon.
Did they use the same engine for all the test? Run the engines under the same conditions? Did they have a failure?

By this, you can determine an oil can protect better than another.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 10:57 PM
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Why would you say "do not go thicker"? Seems plenty of guys are running thick(er) oil and it seems to work great...
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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There is nothing wrong with Rotella, but the 5W-40 would be a better option for a stock motor. LSs like a thin 40 weight or a thick 30 weight. In my H/C 347 I run Mobil 15W-50
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Black01Bird
Why would you say "do not go thicker"? Seems plenty of guys are running thick(er) oil and it seems to work great...
The engine is designed/engineered to run on a certain viscosity. Especially the bearing clearances; too thick of oil and you may have lubrication issues.

I disagree ignoring the owners manual or the cap on the oil neck. That's like ignoring the engine builder who built your engine. He knows what he set it up to run. Why would you ignore that?
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by badazz81z28
The engine is designed/engineered to run on a certain viscosity. Especially the bearing clearances; too thick of oil and you may have lubrication issues.

I disagree ignoring the owners manual or the cap on the oil neck. That's like ignoring the engine builder who built your engine. He knows what he set it up to run. Why would you ignore that?
Except for the fact that the engine has 115k on it and bearing clearances loosen, therefore that same 5w30 that is recommended does not do the same thing as it once did, hence going thicker...
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:19 AM
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The thing is a 0w-30 can easily be thicker than a 5w-30 or 10w-30, most folks fail to understand that the "30" is a range and believe the "Xw" number affects the hot viscosity.

Without going and grabbing the manual for my truck I can say that many vehicles that spec 5w-30 on the oil cap allow for 10w-30 above 0F but most folks will blindly chant 5w-30 anyway.

on top of that oils can either shear down and get thinner with use or oxidize and thicken, and formulas change. For awhile M1 10w-30 was VERY thin as 30weight oils go and with some use was actually more like a 20weight, at the other end of things you run a Amsoil 0w-30 and it can easily become a 40weight because as it ages it tends to oxidize and thicken rather than shear down at the molecular level and get thinner.

Point being there is a LOT of ignorance and marketing based loyalty in oils. Bobistheoilguy is going to be the best bet for data based opinions.

The site has been down for some time but there was someone with an f-body that ran extended intervals with M1 and Amsoil and had analysis done ever 1000miles, pretty interesting read. Hopefully the article pops back up rehosed somewhere else.

Last edited by 96capricemgr; Apr 1, 2013 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 05:53 PM
  #27  
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I use Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30 in the summer and Valvoline 10w40 conventional in the winter. Seems to be a good oil per bobtheoilguy.com.
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