crankshaft reluctor wheel question
Is the PCM aftermarket or from a factory car ? If its from a factory car you might be having a security issue like a Passive key-II, Also have you tried to start it with starting fluid to see if it will run at all ? Have some one crank the engine and you spray starting fluid threw the TB.
Troy
Mine had a similar issue, but it would run but only on a few cylinders, no tach, belching fuel, wouldn't rev past 1500, CKP code(s). The engine shop had installed the reluctor wheel backwards. They removed it for balancing.
Why does the PCM see no RPM from the crank sensor but I still have spark?
Troy
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 30
Can you swap in another PCM? From what you describing its screaming something way off in the PCM . Just to see if it starts seeing rpms, If it doesn't then maybe its time to rake a real close look at the reluctor wheel.
Troy
Troy
Just got off the phone with Callies and might have found the issue. Seems they have a problem with the Callies C-series 4.000 crankshaft. They say the counter weight is too close to the reluctor ring and cancels out the signal the sensor should see. That's why I do not see a RPM signal. The counter weight needs to be chamfered away from the ring and sensor.
Troy
Troy
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First thing, disable the fuel system by unplugging all the injectors so you're not spraying fuel.
Then using a spark tester, check each individual cylinder/coil for good strong spark.
Next, pull the #1 spark plug, and using a piston stop, or some other method, indicate #1 TDC as close as possible. Then using a piece of metal coat hanger or welding rod, rig up a pointer, bolt it to the block and point it at the balancer. Then make a mark on the balancer with whiteout or white paint stick or something.
Then, use a timing light to determine if #1 coil is firing in general relation to #1 TDC. It doesn't have to be extremely accurate, but it does have to be accurate enough. If you're off a few degrees, no problem, but you can't be off 90*.
This is just going to diagnose whether or not your timing is close or is off drastically. This method is much easier than finding and using an oscope to determine if the timing is off.
Then using a spark tester, check each individual cylinder/coil for good strong spark.
Next, pull the #1 spark plug, and using a piston stop, or some other method, indicate #1 TDC as close as possible. Then using a piece of metal coat hanger or welding rod, rig up a pointer, bolt it to the block and point it at the balancer. Then make a mark on the balancer with whiteout or white paint stick or something.
Then, use a timing light to determine if #1 coil is firing in general relation to #1 TDC. It doesn't have to be extremely accurate, but it does have to be accurate enough. If you're off a few degrees, no problem, but you can't be off 90*.
This is just going to diagnose whether or not your timing is close or is off drastically. This method is much easier than finding and using an oscope to determine if the timing is off.
First thing, disable the fuel system by unplugging all the injectors so you're not spraying fuel.
Then using a spark tester, check each individual cylinder/coil for good strong spark.
Next, pull the #1 spark plug, and using a piston stop, or some other method, indicate #1 TDC as close as possible. Then using a piece of metal coat hanger or welding rod, rig up a pointer, bolt it to the block and point it at the balancer. Then make a mark on the balancer with whiteout or white paint stick or something.
Then, use a timing light to determine if #1 coil is firing in general relation to #1 TDC. It doesn't have to be extremely accurate, but it does have to be accurate enough. If you're off a few degrees, no problem, but you can't be off 90*.
This is just going to diagnose whether or not your timing is close or is off drastically. This method is much easier than finding and using an oscope to determine if the timing is off.
Then using a spark tester, check each individual cylinder/coil for good strong spark.
Next, pull the #1 spark plug, and using a piston stop, or some other method, indicate #1 TDC as close as possible. Then using a piece of metal coat hanger or welding rod, rig up a pointer, bolt it to the block and point it at the balancer. Then make a mark on the balancer with whiteout or white paint stick or something.
Then, use a timing light to determine if #1 coil is firing in general relation to #1 TDC. It doesn't have to be extremely accurate, but it does have to be accurate enough. If you're off a few degrees, no problem, but you can't be off 90*.
This is just going to diagnose whether or not your timing is close or is off drastically. This method is much easier than finding and using an oscope to determine if the timing is off.
Thank you for taking a look at the thread.
I have looked into that and looked at pictures from the build. But I know for a fact the cam and crank were dot to dot, the cam locating pin was ~3 o'clock, and the crank pin was pointed at #1. I followed the book step by step and adjusted the rockers by the book step by step.
Bottom line is all the diagnostic test I have done tell me I have NO crank signal. Everything is good from the sensor to the PCM. Only piece of the puzzle left is the reluctor ring.
Troy
Troy
Thank you for taking a look at the thread.
I have looked into that and looked at pictures from the build. But I know for a fact the cam and crank were dot to dot, the cam locating pin was ~3 o'clock, and the crank pin was pointed at #1. I followed the book step by step and adjusted the rockers by the book step by step.
Bottom line is all the diagnostic test I have done tell me I have NO crank signal. Everything is good from the sensor to the PCM. Only piece of the puzzle left is the reluctor ring.
Troy
I have looked into that and looked at pictures from the build. But I know for a fact the cam and crank were dot to dot, the cam locating pin was ~3 o'clock, and the crank pin was pointed at #1. I followed the book step by step and adjusted the rockers by the book step by step.
Bottom line is all the diagnostic test I have done tell me I have NO crank signal. Everything is good from the sensor to the PCM. Only piece of the puzzle left is the reluctor ring.
Troy
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
Can you find someone who has an oscilloscope to capture the CKP/CMP waveforms (to see if the reluctor is not backwards by comparing encoded sequence with known good waveform)...
if you find someone who has a 4-channel oscilloscope, they can also capture #1 ignition primary and #1 running compression (cylinder pressure) to provide frames-of-reference to the CKP/CMP waveforms (see what Ed said).
if you find someone who has a 4-channel oscilloscope, they can also capture #1 ignition primary and #1 running compression (cylinder pressure) to provide frames-of-reference to the CKP/CMP waveforms (see what Ed said).
Last edited by joecar; Apr 12, 2013 at 05:27 PM.
First thing, disable the fuel system by unplugging all the injectors so you're not spraying fuel.
Then using a spark tester, check each individual cylinder/coil for good strong spark.
Next, pull the #1 spark plug, and using a piston stop, or some other method, indicate #1 TDC as close as possible. Then using a piece of metal coat hanger or welding rod, rig up a pointer, bolt it to the block and point it at the balancer. Then make a mark on the balancer with whiteout or white paint stick or something.
Then, use a timing light to determine if #1 coil is firing in general relation to #1 TDC. It doesn't have to be extremely accurate, but it does have to be accurate enough. If you're off a few degrees, no problem, but you can't be off 90*.
This is just going to diagnose whether or not your timing is close or is off drastically. This method is much easier than finding and using an oscope to determine if the timing is off.
Then using a spark tester, check each individual cylinder/coil for good strong spark.
Next, pull the #1 spark plug, and using a piston stop, or some other method, indicate #1 TDC as close as possible. Then using a piece of metal coat hanger or welding rod, rig up a pointer, bolt it to the block and point it at the balancer. Then make a mark on the balancer with whiteout or white paint stick or something.
Then, use a timing light to determine if #1 coil is firing in general relation to #1 TDC. It doesn't have to be extremely accurate, but it does have to be accurate enough. If you're off a few degrees, no problem, but you can't be off 90*.
This is just going to diagnose whether or not your timing is close or is off drastically. This method is much easier than finding and using an oscope to determine if the timing is off.
Ok, brought #1 to TDC on compression. Marked the balancer and made a pointer. It does not spark on TDC or even close.
Troy
Last edited by badass99ss; Apr 13, 2013 at 06:24 AM.
Got the engine out and the pan off. Hard to get a good picture of it, but it looks like the counter weight is brushing up against the crank sensor. Don't know how I over looked the scuffs on the crank sensor before I tore it down. Here are few pics.
Troy
Troy