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crankshaft reluctor wheel question

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Old 04-14-2013, 10:45 PM
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The crank sensor need to be with in .020" of the reluctor ring for it to read. I had a problem a few years ago when the reluctor ring was hitting the wrist pin bose on a set of custom pistons, I had the reluctor ring turned down and had to machine the crank sensor to go further in the block to reach the ring to read.

When you checked the firing and timing mark, did you turn the motor twice or just once ,because you might have been on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke, The crank turns twice to one turn on the cam. And also you can set the timing make on dot to dot (180*) or straight up (0*), it does not matter on a LS1 because there no distributor to set the timing with.So there no chance to get the timing off with out a distributor gear, BUT if you have adjustable rocker arm you will need it on the compression stroke to adjust the rockers,, You have a cam sensor and a crank sensor both are set , the cam gear has a dow to set the cam timing, and the crank has a reluctor ring to set the crank timing. So see the only way that you can get it out of time would be the reluctor ring is misaligned or the coil packs harness is crossed ( driver on passenger) the main coil harness will switch sides . ,basically like a distributor gear not set in at top dead center on a old style small block.

Last edited by Randy WS6; 04-15-2013 at 09:31 AM.
Old 04-14-2013, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by badass99ss
Got the engine out and the pan off. Hard to get a good picture of it, but it looks like the counter weight is brushing up against the crank sensor. Don't know how I over looked the scuffs on the crank sensor before I tore it down. Here are few pics.






Troy
my crank sensor has a slight make on it from the crank touching it, but runs fine , the pickup coil in the sensor is in the center of the sensor it about 1/8" diameter. I run a 4.100" crank
Old 04-15-2013, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
The crank sensor need to be with in .020" of the reluctor ring for it to read. I had a problem a few years ago when the reluctor ring was hitting the wrist pin bose on a set of custom pistons, I had the reluctor ring turned down and had to machine the crank sensor to go further in the block to reach the ring to read.

When you checked the firing and timing mark, did you turn the motor twice or just once ,because you might have been on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke, The crank turns twice to one turn on the cam. And also you can set the timing make on dot to dot (180*) or straight up (0*), it does not matter on a LS1 because there no distributor to set the timing with.So there no chance to get the timing off with out a distributor gear, BUT if you have adjustable rocker arm you will need it on the compression stroke to adjust the rockers,, You have a cam sensor and a crank sensor both are set , the cam gear has a dow to set the cam timing, and the crank has a reluctor ring to set the crank timing. So see the only way that you can get it out of time would be the reluctor ring is misaligned or the coil packs harness is crossed ( driver on passenger) the main coil harness will switch sides . ,basically like a distributor gear not set in at top dead center on a old style small block.


Randy,

When I checked dot to dot on the cam and crank #1 valves were both closed. When I did receive my wire harness the driver and passenger side coils were marked. I would also not be able to reach my other sensors if the harness was switched.


Troy
Old 04-15-2013, 12:53 PM
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The valves will appear to be closed on both strokes, Its just on the exhaust stroke, the lifter are still on the ramps of the cam lobes. starting on the exhaust ramp and coming off the intake ramp. On the compression stroke there both on the base circle or back side of the cam lobes , witch is were you want to be. Just trying to help
Old 04-15-2013, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
The valves will appear to be closed on both strokes, Its just on the exhaust stroke, the lifter are still on the ramps of the cam lobes. starting on the exhaust ramp and coming off the intake ramp. On the compression stroke there both on the base circle or back side of the cam lobes , witch is were you want to be. Just trying to help
Yes, I understand and have confirmed they are correct. I appreciate your help but I think its come down to my last option and I need to pull the crank. I have explained everything I have done to Callies, and they believe I need to send the crank out to them.


Troy
Old 04-15-2013, 07:49 PM
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Hey guys I don't know if you have mentioned this already but I had similar issues too... I did a 5.3 to a ls2.. ls2`s have the pickup in the front right.. well if you don't switch the wires around to the cam pickup it will sit there and fart all day without starting.. after switching the wires pins around it started right up.. just don't know if this has been addressed yet and I did notice you said you were using ls1 harness
Old 04-15-2013, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by joecar
Are the connector terminal pins making contact with the sensor pins (open up the connectors and re-form the terminal pins)...?

Is the reluctor straight, tight, and undamaged...?
A little runout is ok according to Eagle specialties, they say up to .028"-+ is ok
Old 04-15-2013, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by CzrTrux
Hey guys I don't know if you have mentioned this already but I had similar issues too... I did a 5.3 to a ls2.. ls2`s have the pickup in the front right.. well if you don't switch the wires around to the cam pickup it will sit there and fart all day without starting.. after switching the wires pins around it started right up.. just don't know if this has been addressed yet and I did notice you said you were using ls1 harness
Originally Posted by 64post
A little runout is ok according to Eagle specialties, they say up to .028"-+ is ok
Yes, I tried switching the wires around. Didn't work either way and Speartech said they made the switch to work with the LS2 cam sensor pigtail in the harness.

I measured the run out on the reluctor today and it was around .020~.025 which is within Callies specs. Im shipping the crank off tomorrow so they can look at it and I will just spend the $ to have them install the one piece billet wheel.

Troy
Old 04-30-2013, 12:42 AM
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Got the crank back from Callies. They chamfered the counter weight and installed a billet one piece wheel. Got the engine back in the car and it fires right up! Now need to figure out why it starts revs and dies after a few secs. Speed Inc did the base tune and said they removed the VATS.


Troy
Old 04-30-2013, 07:57 AM
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AWESOME! Glad you got it started!
Old 05-01-2013, 06:10 PM
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