408 Build Thread (New numbers)
11 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 955
Likes: 4
From: Silver Spring, Md.
Though most folks downplay the dyno, it truly is important for measuring before and after results. Because I run my car a lot, I know exactly what gains my mods have netted me. I suppose what's important is how much you enjoy what you have. For me, I wanted a car with a bit too much hp. When I've reached the point where the car "scares" me, I'll be satisfied. lol!! One thing I love about the stick cars is, they're very violent. There's nothing like being thrown back in your seat with every gear change. Plus, I love the big mph they produce.
How do you know it's near a 10 second car if you haven't run it? Just by feel? Butt dyno is very inaccurate.
Any run of the mill 408/ls3 top end combo will make 500 rwhp on a dynojet. It is probably just the dyno. Mustang dynos are all over the place. Some read really low, some read really high. It is all in the config. Dynojet there is no config, so they all ready pretty close to each other.
Any run of the mill 408/ls3 top end combo will make 500 rwhp on a dynojet. It is probably just the dyno. Mustang dynos are all over the place. Some read really low, some read really high. It is all in the config. Dynojet there is no config, so they all ready pretty close to each other.
That cam isn't too far off assuming it's on a 114 for LS3 heads. It'd work well for a 408, 4" stroke, and the LS3 heads.
The problem is LS3 heads don't like 4" or even 4.03" bore. It might be worth it to send them to Ballistic Speed and have them do their Stage 2 Port and install 2.08" valves in there. I bet you it picks up big time with that cam and kills some of the reversion and helps improve I/E flow.
The problem is LS3 heads don't like 4" or even 4.03" bore. It might be worth it to send them to Ballistic Speed and have them do their Stage 2 Port and install 2.08" valves in there. I bet you it picks up big time with that cam and kills some of the reversion and helps improve I/E flow.
We've actually seen some power losses recently with the Fast ls3 intake over a stock ls3 intake. What is the chamber size on those heads as of right now? Whats the deck height on the motor? I'd consider porting the heads (assuming they are stock unless I misread) and bringing compression up to over 11:1. Do that and throw it on a dynojet and you should be around your goal.
How do you know it's near a 10 second car if you haven't run it? Just by feel? Butt dyno is very inaccurate.
Any run of the mill 408/ls3 top end combo will make 500 rwhp on a dynojet. It is probably just the dyno. Mustang dynos are all over the place. Some read really low, some read really high. It is all in the config. Dynojet there is no config, so they all ready pretty close to each other.
Any run of the mill 408/ls3 top end combo will make 500 rwhp on a dynojet. It is probably just the dyno. Mustang dynos are all over the place. Some read really low, some read really high. It is all in the config. Dynojet there is no config, so they all ready pretty close to each other.
We've actually seen some power losses recently with the Fast ls3 intake over a stock ls3 intake. What is the chamber size on those heads as of right now? Whats the deck height on the motor? I'd consider porting the heads (assuming they are stock unless I misread) and bringing compression up to over 11:1. Do that and throw it on a dynojet and you should be around your goal.
I ran a .06" headgasket to try and keep compression right around 11:1.
I have to go back to get it retuned, because there are some things i dont like, and id like to have him change that. Maybe ill ask if he can throw it on the dyno again just for ***** and giggles.
I dont know if i mentioned this, but after the tune the car set a code for P101, which is a MAF code. I took it back and he said he forgot to tune the MAF tables. I didnt have them redyno it, but the car does feel faster (lose all traction shifting from 1st-2nd). Is it possible i gained some power from that or is that just me being crazy?
I dont know if i mentioned this, but after the tune the car set a code for P101, which is a MAF code. I took it back and he said he forgot to tune the MAF tables. I didnt have them redyno it, but the car does feel faster (lose all traction shifting from 1st-2nd). Is it possible i gained some power from that or is that just me being crazy?
OP I'm not bitching at you, just your tuner. LOL.
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Verdad Gallardo He is a very nice guy and is very knowledgeable. He didnt say he didnt tune the tables. He said something along the lines of, raising the threshold of the p101. Im not sure exactly what that means, but it seems healthier now. Weather permitting im going to the track friday, and ill see what kind of mph i can get out of it.
Finally took it to the track. good news is it ran 12.63 at 117.5. Bad news is i now have low oil pressure (~10psi at idle) Its the first time the car has been run that hard and long. Although on two passes i did miss fourth gear.
Im hoping its something simple and inexpensive. It could be the oil pump O-ring or i read a post where the barbell dislodged itself. Or what i believe to be the most likely issue is i spun/wore a bearing.
Im hoping its something simple and inexpensive. It could be the oil pump O-ring or i read a post where the barbell dislodged itself. Or what i believe to be the most likely issue is i spun/wore a bearing.
Finally took it to the track. good news is it ran 12.63 at 117.5. Bad news is i now have low oil pressure (~10psi at idle) Its the first time the car has been run that hard and long. Although on two passes i did miss fourth gear.
Im hoping its something simple and inexpensive. It could be the oil pump O-ring or i read a post where the barbell dislodged itself. Or what i believe to be the most likely issue is i spun/wore a bearing.
Im hoping its something simple and inexpensive. It could be the oil pump O-ring or i read a post where the barbell dislodged itself. Or what i believe to be the most likely issue is i spun/wore a bearing.
Yea that really sux man I been reading your whole thread because Im specking out my build very similar to yours except i'm using my P/P 243 heads until I get some better. thanks for the info and pics on the oil pan as well . I may have missed it but what style Pan do you have ?
Best of luck
Best of luck
Yea that really sux man I been reading your whole thread because Im specking out my build very similar to yours except i'm using my P/P 243 heads until I get some better. thanks for the info and pics on the oil pan as well . I may have missed it but what style Pan do you have ?
Best of luck
Best of luck
Just drained the oil and cut open the filter, got lots of bearing material so it looks like the engine will be coming out. Ill fully disassemble it and have a machinist check the crank and the valves and make sure nothing else was hurt.
50-60 cold 40-50 hot depending on the temperature. Im not sure what you mean by center, it can really only go on one way.
Its just a stock pan from chevy racing, found it on summit.
Just drained the oil and cut open the filter, got lots of bearing material so it looks like the engine will be coming out. Ill fully disassemble it and have a machinist check the crank and the valves and make sure nothing else was hurt.
Its just a stock pan from chevy racing, found it on summit.
Just drained the oil and cut open the filter, got lots of bearing material so it looks like the engine will be coming out. Ill fully disassemble it and have a machinist check the crank and the valves and make sure nothing else was hurt.
Well got it out and disassembled this morning before work. Main bearings 2 and 4 were worn pretty bad, and 3 wasnt much better. The other 2 were not too bad. It looks to me like they were starved for oil and burnt up. Im not really sure how they would get starved for oil though, and just those 2 in particular. I havent pulled the cam yet to check those bearings, but id imagine they may need replacing as well. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?