the other one looks fine and both sensors look brand new, I have am iphone 5 so I don't think I can use that app. my tuner was supposed to call back and set me up and appoint hopefully to figure out what's wrong and never did this whole thing is really getting frustrating

 

I'm also only getting about 15 mpg now if that helps anyone

 

Helps out BP I reckon.

 

sure isn't helping me lol...my car runs better with an o2 sensor that is ripped in half than with a functioning o2 sensor

 

Ok... #1 if your tuner is going to turn your knock sensors off to diagnose an issue with them, find a new tuner. There are much safer ways of diagnosing knock sensor issues then that.

#2 a "backwards O2 sensor can't happen unless the wires in the harness pictured weren't repaired correctly. The O2 sensor plugs in only one way because the plastic part of the plug will only let it be plugged in one way. I'm not sure if he meant the harness for the front O2 were plugged into the rears, your description is rather vague. But in my experience the harness for the fronts will not reach the rear O2 sensors.

I was unable to get a good feel for what was wrong with the car from video because I am on my phone or because the sound was drowned out by the other cars on the strip, or the second video seems to be like 5 seconds... However, you should find someone with EFI live or HP Tuners (what i use) or a tech2 to scan your car and pull the codes. And when you get them put the actual codes up. I understand you are getting a missfire... That will come up as P0300 (random missfire) usually followed by a cylinder (P0302 for cylnder 2, P0304 for cylinder 4, you get the idea) that can tell you a lot. Also the scanning equipment will pull up fault codes that haven't tripped the Check Engine Light yet. Again I wasn't able to get any idea of what's going on from the video but you need to get a competent tuner to look at your car. 90% of the time they will.be able to point you in the right direction right after they plug in. And I must emphasize... A COMPETENT tuner. Anyone who is going to "turn off" or "tune out" your knock sensors is not a competent tuner in my humble opinion. If a car is in such a state as yours the knock sensors migt be the only thing saving it from predetonating itself to pieces. Good luck.

 

#1 I asked him to tune them out, they serve no purpose at all considering I have no knocking and it's pulling the timing and I've read countless threads of the problem not being fixed without tuning them out

#2 He meant they were plugged in the rear o2 sensor spots, mine have extensions


Cars ran for 100 years without knock sensors and I have raced and driven more without them than with and have never had any trouble and I'd love to see proof that someone actually has.

And no I am not getting any misfires I don't really know where you got that from the only codes I am getting are P0332 P0327 and a couple of o2 sensor codes that I didn't have written down

 

Why stop there? Pull the fuel injection setup and slap a carb on it. Ditch the starter in favor of a hand crank. Yank the torque arm rear out of it and retrofit a leaf spring setup.

Modern cars (term used loosely, knock sensors have been around for 3+ DECADES) require them as a safety measure where a computer controls very complex timing tables. Deleting knock sensors due to false knock is like a bandaid on a bullet wound.

 

please show me one instance of not having a knock sensor blowing up an engine on any car ever until you do that please leave my thread until you have something useful to add, whining about my knock sensors is not helping any of us

 

Exhaust setup can trigger the knock sensors. There are different type sensors for different engines just due to the internals and/or noises that some make. If your tuner says you're not pinging and has you loaded up with a safe tune, go for it. Like anything else we're all big boys and do it at our own risk. There ain't much we do to our cars happily that doesn't have at least a minimal chance of breaking something.

 

When I reset the ecm by unplugging the 2 fuses the car will run great for a few hours until the check engine light cuts back on

 

Duuuude, knock sensors are necessary on newer cars. They run considerably different than old cars. Comparing something designed to run on leaded fuel vs. today's cars is a bad analogy. I have worked on and tuned both. If you don't want them then tune them out. No skin off my ***, but I am telling you that if your car is running as bad as you say it is, they may be keeping it together. That is pure speculation on my part though since I haven't seen what your car is doing first hand. I was just trying to give you some friendly advice in the hopes that you wouldn't be wrecking your motor. Take it for what you will. If your car is backfiring and popping that is, in general, a sign of a dirty MAF sensor. Not always but a good portion of the time. I had a similar issue when tuning my last car, a turbo cobalt. If your knock sensors are reading low voltage then check them and check the wiring. And with your car backfiring, as a result of a poor air/fuel mix, tuning out the knock sensors is not a good idea. If your fuel ratio swings lean then you have a pretty good chance of damaging your engine. In this case its better to be safe than sorry in my humble opinion. Get new knock sensors. Then reevaluate the performance. While your at it get a can of MAF cleaner just to be sure that isn't part of the air/fuel issue. Pop it out and clean it when you are changing your knick sensors. These days with computer controlled cars sensors are the nerves of the ecu. If you start taking its sensors away it isnt much of a help to you. You might as well be driving a model t. And I have had to due sensitize my knock sensors in my last car which was direct injection and the pressures I was running in the fuel system and through the injectors was pretty high. The computer would read it as artifactory (false)knock. Having low current is different. They are bad or the harness is bad. Fix the problem, don't ignore it, it will be better in the end.

Edit: I saw you replaced the knock sensors. Dud the wires look like they had any issues? I replace 3 MAFs in my last car before I pulled my head or of my *** far enough to see that the writing had split and was causing a low voltage issues. Wires near motors go through hear cycles and it's only a matter of time before the wire insulation becomes brittle.

 

I believe you missed the part where I replaced all the knock sensors and wiring, they are sensing false knock

 

I believe you missed the part where I asked if you inspected the wires at the end of my previous post...

If they are still throwing a low voltage code, which is one of the codes you cited earlier then that is not knock. A low voltage is an issue with the wiring harness or the sensor. P0327/0322 are low voltage code. Now let me try and lend you some of my limited knowledge... Some guys out there, tuners specifically, may have experience with this. You must do more than just turn off the sensor code. You actually have to turn the sensor sensitivity down

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0327
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0332

Again, unless your codes are different then the other post in this thread then your knock sensors are not reading correctly.

When did this problem start to happen? Was it isolated after the trans was put in or did it start after?

On the first page you were asking where your MAF and O2 sensors were. I find it funny that you are now all of a sudden a racer who runs modern cars without the necessary engine management sensors.

 

you're still missing the part where all the sensors and wires have been replaced I believe please tell me more stuff that doesn't matter my knock sensors are now tuned out so please stop clinging to that, the car still makes no power

 

You've got a bad attitude combined with a lack of knowledge. You're doing all the wrong things and when given some GOOD advice, you get defensive and start posturing. What about this mechanic and tuner of yours? As incompetent as you? Likely so, which is why you are here asking for help. So you can either give us the info we're asking for AND LISTEN TO WHAT WE'RE TELLING YOU, or you can delete the knock sensors since "they're not needed". Go ahead and stick a carb on it, remove the starter in favor of a hand crank, and ditch the modern suspension for a leaf spring setup, because that's how cars worked 100 years ago.

 

^^^+1

 

this forum actually recommended my tuner as one of the best, I've givin you absolutely every bit of information you have asked for, you on the other hand have not shown me one instance of not running knock sensors blowing up an engine, my lack of knowledge has fixed my car, your lack have knowledge hasn't done anything for me

 

and as for you, when i see the thread where hawk blew your engine up i'll be sure to bump this.

 

Considering I've been doing buisness with then for 5 years and their work has always been top notch you'll be waiting a long time, but I see you obviously found a much better person than hawks, oh wait I forgot, your **** still ain't fixed, and for someone who didn't know where their MAF and o2 sensors were you really have no room to say anyone here has a lack of knowledge, maybe you should go back to something more on your level like a moped, or if that's still too hard I'm sure some other people you insulted will chip in with me to buy you a shiny new tricycle, surely you'll at least be able to figure out how that works.

 

did you not read my post? my car is fixed....and good insults good luck with your blown engine