Shelton92

I just got an LS1 from a friend for a really good deal. I was looking to rebuild the motor from the ground up and swap it into my 95 Z/28. I am willing to drop about ten grand into a build and was wondering around what kind of power $10,000 can buy. I am also trying to decide wether to supercharge it or go N/A?

Any help, advice, or opinions would awesome!

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

where to start.... you have alot of options, theres many ways to approach this...

first you need to get the swap in order to put it in your 95 z28, you'll need a diff k member, do you have the wiring harness and pcm? for the ls?

to rebuild the ls1 you have with forged parts and having it all machined and whatnot will cost as much or more than lets say a Texas speed forged 347 ls is...

alot of people have supercharged stock ls1's, Im not a supercharger guy so I can't give advice on that... but you can upgrade the rod and head bolts to ARP's and keep the engine stock.. You'll most likely want full bolton's before you supercharge your vehicle and a moser 9'' or 12 bolt if you want to enjoy any of the power you'll have for more than a few trips to the strip..

If it were me I would keep the engine stock, do full bolt on's (1 7/8 headers, fast 102/102, Heads/Cam + supp mods, moser 9''.... and once you have this and plan to upgrade to supercharger/turbo/nitrous down the road or even to a larger CI engine then you can reuse all of those bolt ons with the new build..

Ha you might be jumping the gun talking about FI and you havent even swapped the motor into the 95 yet, granted nothing is impossible but figured I would give you some food for thought...

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

example build:

347 forged shortblock $3,400 est
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-75-tsp-...ort-block.aspx

Heads/cam package $1,700 est
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1160-pr...m-package.aspx

headers $530est
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-291-tex...e-headers.aspx

Fast 102/102 combo $1,200
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-679-fas...-tb-combo.aspx

this is close to 7k so you'll need to leave room for your swap parts, tuning, misc bolts and gaskets, labor (unless your doing it)

and this was just an example of a NA build witha forged Shortblock, you can also keep your engine stock (if its still good as is) and that will save you 3k and then you can get a moser 9'' (2,500) and either a good converter if auto (300-750)

leave yourself some $$ for the unkown mods that seem to come out of nowhere while everything is apart ( for those multiple trips to autozone) lmao

goodluck

TheWolfMatt

With that kind of $$$$$ going into a single engine, I'd say get a brand new engine. Check Katech Performance for example, this is the same company that builds all the race proven 24 Hour LaMans engines in all the C6R Corvettes and most other high performance machines that need to be pushed to the mark.

http://www.katechengines.com/perform...hicles/f-body/
http://www.katechengines.com/performance/engines/

Shelton92

I already have an LS1 in my 95 so i dont really need to worry about parts for that and I don't really want to buy another motor seeing as I just bought this one and I already have one swapped into my car, I wanted a more powerful motor to put into my car. I was looking to find a ~500 rwhp build for around 10k

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Hmm ok the swap is done, what else do you have done to your car?

Shelton92

nothing other than the ls1 swap but before i swap this new motor im building into it i am going to put a mosier 12 bolt in it. That is really all i had in mind, just motor and rear end swap

SinisterWS6

You can eclipse the 500rwhp mark in a few different ways with the type of cash your willing to throw at it. You just need to decide what route you want to take. NA or Boost. Its entirely up to you. Naturally aspirated, your parts selection will need to be very well put together if your staying with the 347. Even if you ran the same parts as other people who have past the 500rwhp on a 347, you still may not get there due to driveline loss, dyno differences, and weather variables at time of testing.

You could build a pretty nice stroker for 10k, better chance at a 500rwhp car.

If your going to boost it, and you are going to disassemble the motor and start from the ground up. What I would do, for reliability purposes at the power goal your looking at. ARP mainstuds. Replace the rods to an upgraded 4340 H beam, even though not necessary at that power level. Install with ARP 2000 rod bolts (a few manufacturers only sell their rods with these bolts). Replace the pistons to a forged dish style to around 9-9.5:1 compression. Depending on mileage of the motor, or upon visual inspection, replace the main/rod bearings.

Get a cam that suits your needs per what style of boost you want to run. Different superchargers have different needs, same goes with turbocharged engines. With a set up bottom end, a head swap won't be necessary. Though I would encourage head studs as a reliability feature. Upgrade lifters, pushrods, and valve springs. If it was me, I'd do the rockers as well.

You shouldn't need a different intake manifold. Though if you find you want a better one, it never hurts. With this build, and the price of a brand new procharger kit with a few upgrades, you'll most likely be past 10k. I listed a few grand in parts and labor (machine shop clean up of the block/mains), also insinuating your doing the assembly at home and they aren't.

But, thats a ground up build. Not a bolt on build.

Like they say, boost is more expensive in the beginning, but cheaper in the long run at making power. Also more versatile when you want more in the future. BUT if your really dead set on only making around 500rwhp. I'd go NA.

Are you stuck on the Moser 12 bolt?

Sommer86

iTrader: (46)

I'm actually selling my 402 with K member for 10K. It'll be about 530 rwhp. And might get your car really close to the 10's N/A. It's got a few of the go fast goodies you're looking for.

My ad is in the western section.

Sommer86

iTrader: (46)

Here you go...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/western-c...-po-parts.html

SinisterWS6

^Good example of a well thought out stroker build lol.

Not to hijack, but why are you selling your build Sommer?

Shelton92

Any stroker builds you know of that come close to or surpass 500 rwhp?
And no, not stuck on it, if you have another rear end suggestion let me know.

SinisterWS6

Midwest Chassis Has a nice fabbed 9" package, with a CM torque arm included. I really like it, but spring is here and things are going to start getting really far behind. But you'd have to talk to them about that.

Honestly stroker wise, there's 383s, 402-408's that get past 500 up to about 540-550 with the right heads/cam/intake set up (hand touched up heads/intake). But you still have to consider driveline loss in your end result. Mamo built a 418 awhile back for someone that went 570 something rwhp but he had more than 10k in that. Of course, these are not your usual results by any means.

But we are just playing a numbers game. Lol

Shelton92

Okay, well that cleared that up for me, I was wondering if it was possible, but could you possible point me in the direction of a ~500 whp 383 build setup?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Texas speed has a 383 rotating assembly to use on your exsisting block...

That and a good set of heads like trick flow 215's or bigger with a mid 230's cam will get you 500 hp, fast 102 Intake, 1 7/8 headers with true duals...

But 500 hp is just a number, a properly set up 420hp, 440, 475 hp car will beat a 500hp car that isn't planned right. Get a used moser 9" off the forums here for $1,500-$1,800...

The worst thing is to make the power and can't put it down..

Shelton92

If I go with a setup similar to what you had mentioned what type of gear ratio would you recommend in the rear end to get the power to the ground?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

If I had $10K for an engine alone...I would look for an LS7 and cam it. Very streetable and over 500hp to the wheels.

TheWolfMatt

That's what I'm saying.

MIKELMOTORCYCLE3398

iTrader: (3)

Ditch the ls1 for 10k and buy a ls7

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

People who talk about just swapping in a 10k engine forget that you need other stuff to make it work. Do you have the MAF, lid, headers/y-pipe, k-member, wiring harness, fuel pump, injectors, sensors, ecm, clutch, front drive accessories, etc to make it work? That stuff, adds up very quickly. I'd say that alone would be 3-4k worth of parts.

So that means if you're doing the work yourself, you're looking at 6k left for the shortblock, heads, cam, intake manifold, lifters, pushrods, timing chain, oil pump, and gaskets.