Valvetrain breakage
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
Valvetrain breakage Ok heard the sound, circumstances had me drive the car once a week, sometimes none at all. Waterpump had went which is when I had the car towed to my LS mechanic. I knew the waterpump was going when I had done the oil change to the car but again circumstances forced me to use the car when I didn't want to use it. Anyway enough of the rant.
I bought the parts that me and my mechanic had talked about when we heard the ticking sound but it looks like it's too late. Lifter rounded out one of the lobes on the cam. So gonna need new cam. Also additional breakage, some of the rockerarms filed down their mated valve stems. Here are pics.
Also gonna need new oil pump. His main concern is the fine metal particles in the oil system that may affect the bearings. When I have the car up and running, to minimize that kind of wear on the bearings, how often should I change the oil? Wish there was a way to flush out the whole motor.
I bought the parts that me and my mechanic had talked about when we heard the ticking sound but it looks like it's too late. Lifter rounded out one of the lobes on the cam. So gonna need new cam. Also additional breakage, some of the rockerarms filed down their mated valve stems. Here are pics.
Also gonna need new oil pump. His main concern is the fine metal particles in the oil system that may affect the bearings. When I have the car up and running, to minimize that kind of wear on the bearings, how often should I change the oil? Wish there was a way to flush out the whole motor.
Last edited by Roarin_8; Jul 15, 2013 at 08:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
Also good thing it was stopped, any further damage to the valve stems and they would have filed down past the locks and BAM, dropped valve onto the piston.
Also in case you guys want more details, about 86K miles on motor and was using German Castrol 0W-30. My LS mechanic said the oil is to thin for FL weather, however I've read that German Castrol is more of a 40 weight. Thoughts?
Also in case you guys want more details, about 86K miles on motor and was using German Castrol 0W-30. My LS mechanic said the oil is to thin for FL weather, however I've read that German Castrol is more of a 40 weight. Thoughts?
are those oem parts that broke?
not sure what you mean about when you bought parts, before or after the problems shown in your pictures?
german castrol is bullshit. send bitog your repair bill.
but i wouldn't lay blame solely on the oil without knowing a few other things such as your water pump problem- were you having any kind of overheating issues? any chance there is coolant in the oil which caused the lubrication failure? being in florida did the car see a lot of hot weather in stop & go traffic idling with less than 30 psi oil pressure? the head and parts look pretty clean, no varnish, so at first glance it doesn't look like a oil viscosity too low issue not for just one lifter and valve stem. maybe a failed lifter then starved that rocker arm? i wouldn't worry too much about metal, that's what the oil filter is for.
not sure what you mean about when you bought parts, before or after the problems shown in your pictures?
german castrol is bullshit. send bitog your repair bill.
but i wouldn't lay blame solely on the oil without knowing a few other things such as your water pump problem- were you having any kind of overheating issues? any chance there is coolant in the oil which caused the lubrication failure? being in florida did the car see a lot of hot weather in stop & go traffic idling with less than 30 psi oil pressure? the head and parts look pretty clean, no varnish, so at first glance it doesn't look like a oil viscosity too low issue not for just one lifter and valve stem. maybe a failed lifter then starved that rocker arm? i wouldn't worry too much about metal, that's what the oil filter is for.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
Yes lifters were OEM parts as well as the valves. There was no coolant in the oil when I did the oil change. My mechanic said that the heads will have to get machined and said for that, might as well get a pair of bare castings (243s with valves) for around the same price.
Oil pressure was fine, was always in the 45 psi range.
Yeah I had bought parts before the waterpump went because I heard the slight ticking sound and it started to get louder which is when I decided to stop driving the car and bought the parts for the repair.
I have to ask him if it was just 1 lifter that went bad or if there are multiple, same with the valves.
Oil pressure was fine, was always in the 45 psi range.
Yeah I had bought parts before the waterpump went because I heard the slight ticking sound and it started to get louder which is when I decided to stop driving the car and bought the parts for the repair.
I have to ask him if it was just 1 lifter that went bad or if there are multiple, same with the valves.
what dual spring were you running? What cam, lifter pre-load and was pushrod length checked? I am guessing fairly aggressive lobe, lots of spring pressure, OEM lifter said **** it...that lifter and pushrod clogged up with bits and no more oil to that rocker...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Dual springs were the Patriot golds, cam was TTP's custom grind on an XE-R lobe. Lifter pre-load and pushrod length were checked - 7.350 pushrods. When TTP dynoed the car they said that the graph showed a lifter issue but it wasn't bad, YET. Was keeping an eye on it but like I said previously, when I didn't want to drive the car, certain circumstances forced me to drive it for work. Public transportation is near non-existent in FL.
Dual springs were the Patriot golds, cam was TTP's custom grind on an XE-R lobe. Lifter pre-load and pushrod length were checked - 7.350 pushrods. When TTP dynoed the car they said that the graph showed a lifter issue but it wasn't bad, YET. Was keeping an eye on it but like I said previously, when I didn't want to drive the car, certain circumstances forced me to drive it for work. Public transportation is near non-existent in FL.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Cam came in at 234/238, .595/.602 on a 112 LSA
I didn't know it had XE-R lobes until this past Tuesday. Those lifters did last 20K miles with that cam though, 86K total miles.
I didn't know it had XE-R lobes until this past Tuesday. Those lifters did last 20K miles with that cam though, 86K total miles.
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Verdad Gallardo yeah that is not terrible.... FWIW The Rex was not my idea of a DD cam, was in the car when I bought it. My fault for leaving it in there though, started to notice some valve float before I got the ticking. I venture to guess it had about 15k on it...I believe the Trex uses an XE-R lobe as well, just not an endurance/high mileage setup...weekend track car that see's limited street use is fine..I was DD'ng the car in nice weather (No AC/compressor, condenser etc removed)...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
Yeah I don't daily drive the car either so it didn't bother me. The fact that the lifters couldn't take it and the timing of when it happened sucks but not so bad since I have a good job to pay for the repair and get a good set of heads to boot. 
You will love it with some 243s, picked mine up from a local member for 300.00 bucks, no spring hardware, just heads and valves. The machine work cost me 200 (cleaned/milled/valve work)..all in all, a good budget head and I am much happier with the car now.
glad that no further damage occured! Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
I know Ron, it's crazy.
Side note, my mechanic was able to pick up a set of 243 heads for 300. And since the cam has to get changed out, putting that ATI 10% underdrive pulley as well. Should be interesting when I get it back.
Side note, my mechanic was able to pick up a set of 243 heads for 300. And since the cam has to get changed out, putting that ATI 10% underdrive pulley as well. Should be interesting when I get it back.
Last edited by Roarin_8; Jul 19, 2013 at 06:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
Progress so far as well as the old damaged cam:
Just have to put the new springs on, healthy used rockers, ls6 valley cover and underdrive pulley and then button it all back together. Should be done this week...cross fingers
Just have to put the new springs on, healthy used rockers, ls6 valley cover and underdrive pulley and then button it all back together. Should be done this week...cross fingers
Ya good idea. I have personally seen this damage on many cars and all had patriot springs, including mine. Never one issue using quality beehives like pac 1218s or psi 1511s. Every cam I have pulled out has looked brand new as well as the lifters.
Did you happen to talk to Brian about those Patriot springs?...that was your problem. Those springs started to **** the bed and the lifter started lofting off the cam. Lifter slams back down and gets beat all to hell.