Max lift for 100K mile longevity
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The cam I was going to use has more lift but less duration. It’s a lunatic voodoo 217/223 .549/.549 lsa113, but I started to wonder if I could get away with the EPS truck torque 2 or something similar.
Great information on valvespring maintenance. That is plenty doable if it keeps the motor alive.
I had heard great things about VR1 but I already bought some Rotella T-6. Any idea where that falls on the cushion chart?
.550 to .600 XE-R, LXL, LSL 11/32 push rods, PAC 1218 springs, check and/or replace at 30K or yearly whichever comes first.
I think I'll just go ahead and do the Pat G cam recommendation and see what he comes up with. I wonder if he will recommend the other valvetrain components as well?
220/226 .604”/.604” 113 LSA +2 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
using EPS HiRev lobes.
Recommended valve springs: PAC 1218 or 1518 beehive.
It's just a little bigger than I was originally thinking. I'm just going to go with this and see how it turns out.
Stock will go 100k +
However, if you are doing all this to your car it is the name of the game to have to replace components that wear.. Springs, especially dual sets will wear out around 15-20k depending on lobes/use. For the price of springs why would you want to run them until they could potentially break. A set of BTR springs are around $219-300 on average. Why would you want to cost yourself a motor over trying to get by with not spending money on replacing crucial parts. Sure you can run some beehives further but why would you want to sacrifice power/cam choice based on a set of $250 valve springs.
Even if they are not broke, they still "wear" out. Just my opinion, take it how you want.
Last edited by SNLPerformance; May 22, 2013 at 04:18 PM.

From now on, I'm going to change my springs every 30-40k.









