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Max lift for 100K mile longevity

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Old 05-24-2013, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by killernoodle
I just took apart my 125k mile LS6, had a broken valvespring for who knows how long. Luckily it broke towards the top and was still able to keep the valve closed at redline

From now on, I'm going to change my springs every 30-40k.

Was this on a stock engine? Some did get bad valvesprings.
Old 05-24-2013, 12:50 PM
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Hmm... this is good to know as I figure out how I want to proceed. I have 250K on my original valve springs. Valve covers have never been off the car.
Old 05-25-2013, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by darkvader0
Hmm... this is good to know as I figure out how I want to proceed. I have 250K on my original valve springs. Valve covers have never been off the car.
Im at 224k now. Stock everything.
Old 05-25-2013, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by badassracing
I personally had a 99 Z28 with a TR224/224 .563/.563 that had 100k on it with comp beehives. Thats 100k after cam swap.
I put in the TR224 with PAC 1218's at 110k back in 2007, now at 230k.
Old 05-25-2013, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by massls1guy
I put in the TR224 with PAC 1218's at 110k back in 2007, now at 230k.
120k on 1 set of beehives is great, but I would consider swapping in a fresh set.
Old 05-25-2013, 11:28 AM
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you might look at comp 54-418-11 with brian tooley racing dual springs. the cam has .535 ish lift
Old 05-26-2013, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
120k on 1 set of beehives is great, but I would consider swapping in a fresh set.
That sounds like good advice. I've been meaning to do springs and valve seals for a while.
Old 05-23-2015, 08:36 AM
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Default Always let the engine fully warm up

My heads & cam set up with a Comp Cams XE-R 224/224 with .581 lift has over 104,000+ miles on it since being installed. Car has 136,xxx miles total. Has Comp Cams 987 dual valve springs replaced once with 60, xxx miles of use. All springs were intact. Will probably do 987's again soon and replace locks, retainers, rockers etc too. I always have kept the rpm under 2500 until fully warmed up. Oil pressure drops to normal & water is at normal for about ten minutes.

Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 05-23-2015 at 11:43 AM.
Old 05-25-2015, 07:05 PM
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ASA, hot cam or LS6 cam GM has done the validation R&D while they won't make the power of aftermarket parts they will go the distance without any trouble. But with any product individual results will vary due to your usage of said product.
Old 05-25-2015, 07:57 PM
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Can you still find the TR 224 cam for sale?
Old 05-25-2015, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbirdls1
Can you still find the TR 224 cam for sale?
I doubt it..... I think thunder racing cams was spec by the guy that runs EPS cams now.
Old 05-26-2015, 08:11 AM
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This is a very timely revival of this thread, as I just got my project on the road for the first time yesterday.

I went with the lunati voodoo 217/223 cam. I have only gotten into it a couple times because I am still working on the tune but it runs really good.

Time will tell on valvesprings, when I get the project done enough that I can put some real miles on it, I am going to invest in a valve spring pressure gauge and a height micrometer so I can replace springs and shim them to correct height.
Old 05-26-2015, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Bowtie316
This is a very timely revival of this thread, as I just got my project on the road for the first time yesterday.

I went with the lunati voodoo 217/223 cam. I have only gotten into it a couple times because I am still working on the tune but it runs really good.

Time will tell on valvesprings, when I get the project done enough that I can put some real miles on it, I am going to invest in a valve spring pressure gauge and a height micrometer so I can replace springs and shim them to correct height.
Have you seen the Moroso Valve Seat Pressure Tester ? I think it's part# is 62390 ? It's the one I'm thinking of getting but it looks like it only tests closed pressure. Seems like pressure at the users peak valve lift is the number needed. Sorry I can't link; it's sold by non-sponsors.
Old 06-03-2015, 07:28 AM
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Default Collapsed a lifter

Originally Posted by squalor
Have you seen the Moroso Valve Seat Pressure Tester ? I think it's part# is 62390 ? It's the one I'm thinking of getting but it looks like it only tests closed pressure. Seems like pressure at the users peak valve lift is the number needed. Sorry I can't link; it's sold by non-sponsors.
I have seen them, I'm not sure if I want one for on the head use or one where you take the spring out and put it in a fixture.

I have already had a problem with my setup. I was out dialing in the tune last night, and once I had the VE close enough that it wasn't overly rich or lean anywhere I decided to stand on it. I did a rolling burnout in second gear from an idle, it hit the fuel shutoff at 6400 for a second or 2 until I backed off the throttle enough to keep it off the limiter, I held it just under the fuel shutoff (6300) until ground speed was close to wheel speed then shifted to third. When it stopped spinning in third, I shifted to 6th to just coast and it started the clackity-clackity-clack. I limped it home and pulled the valve covers, one lifter is completely collapsed.

These where stock lq4 lifters of unknown mileage and condition.

So, I plan to pull the heads and install new 12499225 lifters along with PAC 1218 springs. Last time I read up on it, it was a good idea to shim the springs to within .050" of coil bind. Is this still the best bet? Also, I assume I would just use the manufacturer's listed coil bind length, I wouldn't actually try to check coil bind length on the springs right?



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