Rumblin70ss

Hey all, looking for some suggestions for a cam for my wife's 2002 6 speed Firehawk. She's looking for the sound more than anything, but being a gear head I'd like as much power as possible and still retain mileage/driveability since its her only car. It needs to pass a plug in emissions test too. Round trip to work is about 30 miles mostly city driving so she doesn't travel far. I've been leaning towards a Hot Cam but I just wanted to see what else is out there. Cost isn't a limitation as I assume I'll spend about a grand for cam, tune and springs. I'm relatively new to LS cars so suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Tony

garygnu

Pat-G ,or Martin do custom cams that will do what you need.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Well most emissions friendly type cams are not going to sound all that good lol Is she wants a good sounding cam that will pass emissions get a good exhaust with a cutout, and it will make even a small cam sound great

MikeWS6

Heres mine with the TSP 228R. All other mods are in the sig. Everyone says it sounds mean.

sandbergz28

I would say a tr224 or 228r both sound great and make great power i even know a guy who has a 220 cam sounds awesome and still makes great power anything much bigger then 228r and she may not like driveability and spot on tune is a must

MikeWS6

The 228R drives decent. I wouldnt want to drive anything bigger than that. I was told im one of the picky ones when it comes to driveability though.

LS1T56FTW

iTrader: (3)

This should be stated before you ever look into any cam or opinion or whatever...

100% of the cars drive-ability is dependent on the tune. If you have a crappy tuner that basically just tunes WOT and says pis off for the rest of your tune...your car is going to run like dog crap. If your tuner does a great thorough job...your car will drive like stock, pretty much regardless of cam size.

With that said, I have a 228/232 cam on 111LSA and it sounds like this:


I do have PRC 5.3 heads as well, but the power comes on HARD around 3500 (really starts making power around 2800ish) and pulls all the way to 7000 (I think that is because of my heads though, with stock heads it would probably peak around 62-6500). Remember the rule, the tighter the LSA the harder it will chop and the sooner the power will come on, but you "sacrifice drive-ability" in doing so. I will warn you, not many tuners will spend the time required to make a cammed LS1 drive like stock.

EDIT: Here is what it sounded like open header (first startup).

1slow'70

Comp cam XER .588/.595 228/232 @.050 112 LCA

Alvin@PCMofNC

I'd keep the duration in the mid 220's and a 113-114 LSA. Car will pick up great power and not give up a once of driveablity. If you need some custom cam help please let us know.

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

226/230 LxL lobe on 112. Idle sound can also be "tuned". Run the comp 918 kit with Tool Steel retainers and not worry about changing anything for a long time.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

no need for a cam I have dumps and I have had a lot of people what size cam I had. (I didn't even have a Cam upgrade when they was asking me) You also said its your wifes car and I understand that check out some vids and see if that is a better or cheaper way to go. Dumps echo more and are louder and IMO they sound better.

tjs114

Not sure about the 228R and surging issues as listed above. It's all in the tune. I had a TV3 installed and it was a pain in the *** to DD. Took it to another tuner and no issues at all! No hanging idle, no surging at all no stalling. The only thing that happens once in awhile is that when coming down to a stop from speed my idle momentarily drops to 400 but immediately recovers to normal. This is mostly due to the weight of my flywheel.

A decent tuner should be able to make a 228 cam drive so near stock that outside of the noise, power and some additional vibration you couldn't tell the difference.

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

That's not right either, its in the tune. Its the decay side of the IAC motor. Its probably still closing at the decay rate of stock. If you slow it down this will go away.

spicebird98

iTrader: (10)

Hey a fellow Delawarean! ive had a couple cammed cars go through emissions just fine, my most recent was a 232/234 112 (as some would know as the torquer V2 cam) Just take it to Fran at Race Proven Motorsports in New castle to have them tune it before you go through inspection.

In my opinion, id go with a 223/230 .610 .609 113+4 for your wife's car, nice broad powerband and fairly aggressive idle but not over baring. Any questions feel free to PM me.

tjs114

it's because of stored inertia. 12lb flywheel vs 25lb

Rumblin70ss

Hey guys thanks for all the replies! Looks like something 224 to 228 duration and high .500's in lift will work for her car. As most said, it's all in the tune. Any reccomdations on the best tuner? Local dyno tunes would be the best but I could send out the computer if needed.

Dumps were mentioned above but we might add a cutout also. We have a Loudmouth exhaust that may go on his weekend too.....lol.

garygnu

a Texas Speed 224r cam with a 114lsa mite pass emissions .I like the results of the small EPS cam ,222/226 113 lsa.

low2001gmc

iTrader: (148)

x2....i would go with above as its her only car and you would want to keep it as drivable and dependable as possible with still some go to boot....

BlueBird346

iTrader: (13)

He's asking for cam suggestions, not exhaust. And dumps don't make a car sound cammed. There's something wrong with it if it has a rough idle with the stock cam.

MikeWS6

Good choice. The two videos I posted are with the loudmouth so be warned . Also no point in adding a cut out to an open piped loudmouth 1.