Are Lifters recommended when installing a ms3 cam
Are Lifters recommended when installing a ms3 cam So after throwing number out there with the possibility of getting a set of 243 or 799 heads which i would replace All gaskets and all parts while im in there incuding LIFTERS, if i cant find a set of heads are the lifters prone to getting worn down due to the aggressive cam ? And is it common or has anyone had lifter problems after using a big aggressive cam and stock lifters? Also will a set of ls7 lifters be ok for a replacement?
"LS7" lifters are stock lifters. Don't expect wonders over the older lifters. Low spring pressures probably destroyed your cam by bouncing the lifter off of it. Anyways, its always a good idea to replace old parts while you are in there.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 734
Likes: 2
From: Hamlin ny
^this, i am literally in the middle of my cam and heads swap now and my car has 90,000 im so glad i decided to do my lifters and heads when i did my cam swap. if you decide to swap the lifters make sure you get new trays they get very worn out over time. i also did the trunion upgrade for my rockers its great insurance since i went with the texas speed v3 cam.
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From what I've read (from the more educational members on the board) the LS7 lifters are basically a stock replacement. Bad? No. But if you want an upgrade you should look at the BTR SLR lifters, or if you're trying to spend more change look at the morel lifters.
That's why there are so many options because they all work better in certain situations.
Not worth risking it in my opinion. If you have an issue, you will be pulling heads to replace lifters. Might as well do heads and lifters at the same time as the cam swap. I'm not planning on swapping out the cam on my ls6 just yet, but I am putting new ls7 lifters in while the heads are off.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,074
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X2, no lifter will cover all applications, every lifter has a cam that it would work the best with, call sponsors and see what they recommend for the cam and then buy accordingly.
The LS7 lifters bleed down at idle under pretty much all conditions.
I'd recommend the BTR SLR lifters as well. They are a billet body with a check valve vs a cast lifter body with a check ball like stock. Much better built.
If you have the cash to step up to a Morel or Johnson, I'd do that. The LS7 is decent if you have lightweight valves, low spring pressure, and grandma lobes. Otherwise, step up to something designed to withstand the environment of a performance engine.
I'd recommend the BTR SLR lifters as well. They are a billet body with a check valve vs a cast lifter body with a check ball like stock. Much better built.
If you have the cash to step up to a Morel or Johnson, I'd do that. The LS7 is decent if you have lightweight valves, low spring pressure, and grandma lobes. Otherwise, step up to something designed to withstand the environment of a performance engine.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: reading, pa
I have a ms3, when we swapped the cams I rebuilt the top end with ls7 lifters,ls2 lifter trays, prc 650 springs,titanium retainers/seats/ seals, Texas speed chromoly pushrods... That's the same setup your going to want to do, if you have the money go head and do the trunion upgrade too, I'll be doing that this winter with my head swap
The key is to have the valve train setup with no lofting..
If it starts to loft and you have SLR lifters in the engine it will take the lifters longer to bleed down and seat the valves..
You would end up causing more damage with SLR lifter's vs ls7 lifter's if lofting is present..
If it starts to loft and you have SLR lifters in the engine it will take the lifters longer to bleed down and seat the valves..
You would end up causing more damage with SLR lifter's vs ls7 lifter's if lofting is present..
That's technically right. They take longer to bleed down... which means they would stay pumped up at higher RPM with loft. To get around this, you run less preload. Like .025" or so.
And loft happens because your pushrods flex and your cam lobe is violent enough that the cam lobe and lifter separate, usually on the closing ramp. You're going to damage the lifter and lobe in either combination.
The way around it is to run the proper valvetrain setup. For folks with the money, I say run a short-travel lifter. Then you essentially run a solid lifter at higher RPM, so you don't lose valve lift or have pump up issues.
And loft happens because your pushrods flex and your cam lobe is violent enough that the cam lobe and lifter separate, usually on the closing ramp. You're going to damage the lifter and lobe in either combination.
The way around it is to run the proper valvetrain setup. For folks with the money, I say run a short-travel lifter. Then you essentially run a solid lifter at higher RPM, so you don't lose valve lift or have pump up issues.
That's technically right. They take longer to bleed down... which means they would stay pumped up at higher RPM with loft. To get around this, you run less preload. Like .025" or so.
And loft happens because your pushrods flex and your cam lobe is violent enough that the cam lobe and lifter separate, usually on the closing ramp. You're going to damage the lifter and lobe in either combination.
The way around it is to run the proper valvetrain setup. For folks with the money, I say run a short-travel lifter. Then you essentially run a solid lifter at higher RPM, so you don't lose valve lift or have pump up issues.
And loft happens because your pushrods flex and your cam lobe is violent enough that the cam lobe and lifter separate, usually on the closing ramp. You're going to damage the lifter and lobe in either combination.
The way around it is to run the proper valvetrain setup. For folks with the money, I say run a short-travel lifter. Then you essentially run a solid lifter at higher RPM, so you don't lose valve lift or have pump up issues.