Is Mobil 1 15W-50 too think of an oil to use in an LS1??

 

How many miles on it? I run 15w50 on mine but I got 55k+ on mine and cause the turbos thin out the oil to much for my liking.

 

I wouldn't use it.

Moving to Internal Engine... <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong> I wouldn't use it.

Moving to Internal Engine... <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What are you using in your 422? MTI has me using 15W50 in mine - what they recommended if I was going to use a synthetic.

 

I was reading about oil and oil weights somewhere. In the statement it commented that 5w50 was a good all around weight. It's free pumping at colder temps but has the heavy film for protection. I have run Castrol Full Synthetic 5w50 with a k&N high flow oil filter for the past 10000K now and am happy with it... The 15W50, I live in a colder climate......
GM recommends the 5w30 10w30 which is also good, but none the less I would go with a full synthetic just because of the fact of it's break down qualities.
I know this is not of much help, but I was bored.
Curious, what is everyone else using????

Question: What are the benefits of SYNTEC FULL SYNTHETIC?
Answer:

SYNTEC Full Synthetic SAE 5W-50 provides the widest range of protection available. The 5W provides rapid oil circulation at start-up and the 50 delivers a thicker high temperature oil film for ultimate wear protection.
SYNTEC Full Synthetic, with unique molecular components, is also available in SAE 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40
Active formula helps extend engine life by reducing wear and keeping engine clean
Patented stabilizers aggressively seek out and neutralize harmful and corrosive particles, suspending them away from engine parts
SYNTEC's unique molecular structure bonds to engine parts and it provides a level of protection superior to conventional oil
Helps prevent sludge from forming in your engine
Neutralizes acids in your engine that can cause rust and corrosion on vital engine parts such as cylinders, bearings and hydraulic valve lifters.
SYNTEC can be used with confidence in every gasoline engine passenger car, new or old, regardless of oil previously used
SYNTEC is fully compatible with all conventional and synthetic oils
Exceeds the toughest gasoline engine protection requirements for passenger cars and light trucks
Meets the world's toughest gasoline engine protection requirements
SAE Viscosity Grade Temperature Conditions Descriptions
5W-30 Below 0° F Provides excellent fuel economy and low-temperature performance in most late-model automobiles. Especially recommended for new cars.
10W-30 Above 0° F Most frequently recommended viscosity grade for most automobile engines, including high-performance multivalve engines and turbo-charged engines.
10W-40 Above 0° F The first multigrade introduced. A good choice for controlling engine wear and preventing oil breakdown from oxidation. Note: Always check your owner's manual or warranty requirements before using this grade.
20W-50 Above 20° F Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.
SAE 30
SAE 40 Above 40° F
Above 60° F For cars and light trucks, where recommended by manufacturers. Not recommended when cold-temperature starting is required.

 

Ive had it in 3 different LS1s, 1 '01 and 2 '02s and you think your valvetrain is loud now.... wait untill you put thatin there <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> I can hear them a mile away. Needless to say, Ive never used it again.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by WeatherGuy:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong> I wouldn't use it.

Moving to Internal Engine... <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">What are you using in your 422? MTI has me using 15W50 in mine - what they recommended if I was going to use a synthetic. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't know what they have in the 434 C5R but I used Mobil 1 5W-30 in the 422.

If they say use 15W-30 in you 422, use it.

 

i use it for lapping sessions on a road course. go to the moblie site and read what they say. it recomends it for the type of driving i do w/ my car.

 

Bearing/piston clearances and temperature will dictate the preferred oil weight. Larger clearances will allow for a heavier oil. 15W-50 in a stock LS1 would be a bad combination.

Tim

 

Tim is right. If you have an engine built, and it has looser clearances, then you can safely run the thicker weights.

I personally would go no thicker than 15w40 on a stock LS1. Honestly, 10w30 will provide you with excellent all around protection.

 

I had some oil consumption issues w/ Mobil 1 10W30. Based on some advice from another UBB, I switched to running 4 qts. of 10W30 + 2 qts. of 15W50 (w/ a PF58 long fileter). I now use alomost no oil at all, & have a super-quiet valvetrain.

 

well i see 300 + degree oil temps in the summer (20 minutes @ 5000 - 6500 RPM's) and with 10w-30 my oil pressure @ 6000 RPM's at the end of my 20 minutes is 40 PSI!!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
and is @ 25 @ idle. once i cool the car down (let it sit for 20-30 minutes) it goes back to normal (40 - 45 PSI @ idle). you do have to let it warm up longer than you would w/ 10w-30, but it works in the temp range i need. i've talked w/ Lou @ LG's and was told it was fine to use. like i said, go to the Moble 1 site and see for yourself.
i also have a 2 core (2 1" cores) in the works, w/ built in power stearing and oil coolers in the tanks. this should allow me to go back to the 10w-30 stuff.

Patman - i would love to have your input on my situation. car has 80K on it. @ heads have never been off. i also burn 0 oil regardless of the wieght of oil.

 

Glenn, in your case you might want to try going with a thicker 10w30. Mobil 1 is on the thin end of the 30wt scale, while Redline, Royal Purple and Amsoil all formulate their 10w30s on the thicker side. This may help your situation.

Or maybe even try adding a couple of quarts of M1 15w50 to the mix. This should get your hot viscosity closer to a high 30wt/low 40wt.