Looking for a good DD cam suggestions?
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I'd like to have an eps cam but tps has that kit for 603 bucks; which includes cam, springs, and push rods. Which seems to be the better choice money wise.
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Yeah I'm really leaning toward the Torquer V.2 right now, I just hope it wont be too big. And for tuning do you think a mail order from PCM4Less would be worth the savings in money or should I just go ahead with a dyno tune? Also, would I be able to drive the car 2 hours to get it tuned? Considering that's the closest dyno around me. I live near Asheville, NC anyone know of some reputable shops near here? Thanks for all the help so far guys! Alvin if you would step in here with some advice on tuning I'd appreciate it.
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I drove my car 1.5 hours to get a tune. It died at all the redlights and bucked goin down the hwy but made it. I'd pass on the mail order tune after something like a can swap its a waist of money IMO. The tune will make all the diffrence in the world. Especially of you wanna enjoy driving the car.
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IMO if you go with TSP then go with a custom grind that uses some of the newer cam lobes which better valve control then the XER or LSK they use on a large percentage of their house grinds. I'd go with a LSL 227 intake lobs and LXL 230 exhaust lobes on a 111lsa with a ICL of 108, it has 6.5* overlap. Great DD powerband, and sound (I run this cam! ).
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-161-com...-camshaft.aspx
Another great option is to go with a Tick cam, they have a very good selection of cams using the latest cam lobes. If you don't see exactly what you want then talk to Martin he can spec you a custom cam if needed.
http://www.tickperformance.com/camshafts/
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-161-com...-camshaft.aspx
Another great option is to go with a Tick cam, they have a very good selection of cams using the latest cam lobes. If you don't see exactly what you want then talk to Martin he can spec you a custom cam if needed.
http://www.tickperformance.com/camshafts/
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IMO if you go with TSP then go with a custom grind that uses some of the newer cam lobes which better valve control then the XER or LSK they use on a large percentage of their house grinds. I'd go with a LSL 227 intake lobs and LXL 230 exhaust lobes on a 111lsa with a ICL of 108, it has 6.5* overlap. Great DD powerband, and sound (I run this cam! ).
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-161-com...-camshaft.aspx
Another great option is to go with a Tick cam, they have a very good selection of cams using the latest cam lobes. If you don't see exactly what you want then talk to Martin he can spec you a custom cam if needed.
http://www.tickperformance.com/camshafts/
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-161-com...-camshaft.aspx
Another great option is to go with a Tick cam, they have a very good selection of cams using the latest cam lobes. If you don't see exactly what you want then talk to Martin he can spec you a custom cam if needed.
http://www.tickperformance.com/camshafts/
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For valve springs I'm running PAC1521s dual springs, but when the time come to replace them it'll be with the Brian Tooley Racing (BTR) Platinum Spring Kit. $220 w/tool steel retainers, or $300 w/titanium retainers. Torque is excellent, 350 ft.lb. by 3000rpm, an 300hp by 3800rpm.
I do have H/C/I/Headers, but I'm still at stock compression. As far as gains it's hard to say I never dynoed it until after I installed H/C/an headers.
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^ this sounds about what I'm looking for. I was looking for a good cam for torque. Would you guys suggest changing out the lifters? I really don't want to pull the heads, but if it's the only option I will. Alvin, how much are you guys charging for a Dyno Tune? You guys are about the closest place to me.
We charge $500 for a Heads/Cam dyno tune. We like to have the car for 3 days to ensure driveablity is perfect. You should be able to drive it down here as long as you don't change injectors. It will have a hard time idling but that is it. Let us know if we can help you with the cam selection also.
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Yeah I'm really leaning toward the Torquer V.2 right now, I just hope it wont be too big. And for tuning do you think a mail order from PCM4Less would be worth the savings in money or should I just go ahead with a dyno tune? Also, would I be able to drive the car 2 hours to get it tuned? Considering that's the closest dyno around me. I live near Asheville, NC anyone know of some reputable shops near here? Thanks for all the help so far guys! Alvin if you would step in here with some advice on tuning I'd appreciate it.
Last edited by alans02z; 06-04-2013 at 01:48 PM.
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Frost would be my first option of who to take the car too, but seeing he is over 6 hours away that is out of the question. I'm looking to order the cam and all of the parts this week guys. Got a new job this week so not exactly sure when it'll get put it. Talked to TSP today and he suggested the 228R to me, but said the Torquer V2 would do fine. I'm having a horrible time trying to decide on the cam
! Lol, there is one thing that has me worried about installing the cam though; that being degreeing it. Wouldn't you just line up the timing marks to install it? Making sure the engine is at TDC?
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Slightly better power, an valve train life.
For valve springs I'm running PAC1521s dual springs, but when the time come to replace them it'll be with the Brian Tooley Racing (BTR) Platinum Spring Kit. $220 w/tool steel retainers, or $300 w/titanium retainers. Torque is excellent, 350 ft.lb. by 3000rpm, an 300hp by 3800rpm.
I do have H/C/I/Headers, but I'm still at stock compression. As far as gains it's hard to say I never dynoed it until after I installed H/C/an headers.
For valve springs I'm running PAC1521s dual springs, but when the time come to replace them it'll be with the Brian Tooley Racing (BTR) Platinum Spring Kit. $220 w/tool steel retainers, or $300 w/titanium retainers. Torque is excellent, 350 ft.lb. by 3000rpm, an 300hp by 3800rpm.
I do have H/C/I/Headers, but I'm still at stock compression. As far as gains it's hard to say I never dynoed it until after I installed H/C/an headers.
Predator-z, if I were to get 99Bluz28's recommended cam with a ls2 timing chain/gear set would I be ok to line them up Dot to Dot? I'm trying to make sure I do everything correct the first time so I don't have to do it again. So sorry for all the questions guys I'm still learning.
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Oh ok I see what you're saying now. I'm stuck between either his spec'd cam, or the torquer v2. Just trying to decide which is going to provide more usable power seeing I will hardly ever be over 6000rpms daily driving, and which will be more reliable in the long run and of course there is always the factor of gas mileage. I'm pretty sure the one he spec'd will need double springs correct?