I have a thread started on my 2001 Cammed Trans Am which had issues when I bought it from the previous seller were the car would buck and surge while driving I replaced both O2 sensors and the bucking and surging stopped. I have driven the car for a while but since I have 2 motorcycles I get my speed demon taken care of from them. I decided to take the car out to the track piedmont Drag strip here in nc somewhere. My friend had been talking $hit about running me with his bolt on m6 LT1 so I took his challenge I beat him but not by much I had notice when I go wot the car throws out smoke.

Now to my question I ran an 8.4 with a TSP 228R cam with bolt ons and well it feels really under powered for a cammed trans am. According to the seller he advertised 386 rwhp I don't think I am anywhere near it. What would be causing my power issue I know for sure there a cam just feels like a stock bird?

 

well it sounds like problem one is maybe a bad valve seal? i had a buddy with a 5.0 and his car would only smoke at WOT and the valve seal was the issue. assuming you have stock 241s, LTs, lid, ls6 manifold and just the cam 386 sounds about right give or take. perhaps there is slack in your throttle cable?

 

Hmm I ran 8.4 in my bone stock 01 Z28 M6 nearly 10 yrs ago...

Yours does seem odd assuming you had no tire spin?

You could always re dyno and see what's going on first hand..

 

Sounds like you need to retune that bad boy. Doesn't seem like the previous tune is all that good.

 

No slack in the throttle I already checked I know the valve seal were done last year I just hope thats it any quick ways of knowing and finding out. Burken my car an auto so cant stall it like u can lol so auto are slower

 

My buddies 2000 a4 ss was running faster than me at the time... Not much but a little..

I would get a tune and not believe what the previous owner claimed to sell you...

It might not even have the cam you think it does, just sayin..

I bought a used shortblock online claiming to have this and that, well after I got an itch and tore it down it didn't have a number of things advertised..

 

he must have had something in his car every m6 ive seen whoops any A4 unless you are going to higher power levels

 

If you've checked your valves, and throttle linkage, and nothing was found, then whoever tuned the car before didn't do a good job, and it needs a new tune.

 

Valve seals shouldn't only leak at wot. Smoke is oil in your intake most likely. What was you 60' and mph. Could have been an 8.4 at 94 mph for all we know.

 

Well my mile per hour was 88.95 mph with a 2.1 60 ft

 

I bought some lucas Stop oil see if it helps the valve seal problem so I can at least pinpoint where my problem is I hope its just the valve seals

 

anyone any thoughts on the eta and 60

 

Stock stall?
If so there is your main problem.

 

That's why I don't buy modified used cars unless all the receipts are there. Who knows what the f you are buying. Half the time the seller is more clueless than you are... and he owns the car!

 

It is a stock stall lol but he had all the paperwork and receipts for it about 9k in receipts for all the work as for as quality of work who knows but all there thats why I traded my lsx jeep

 

That is why it is sluggish in lower rpms. Get a Yank SS3600 and don't look back.

 

Stock stall? Horrible.

Don't fear stall.

 

stock stall is crap...get a 3600 converter from a good brand and hope you have some decent tires..

 

Damn is a 3600 a bit high I have a 228r cam my buddy told me with a tune it would work like it should it idles pretty low around 500 rpm and shuts off if try to move it when its cold have to wait till it warms up lol

 

If you went with a PT4000 or 2E or something similar... an all-out NA converter, you'd drop .8-1 sec off your 1/4 time with no other changes. That's how much of a difference they make. Remember, something like 10HP is needed to drop .1. So to drop .8 you'd need to add roughly 80HP.