What is the most cost effective/smartest way to make 700+rwhp w/o FI or NOS?
#81
Atm I'm building a 66 mustang for my 75 year old mother with a fwd Acura drivetrain.....with enough drive you can build anything!
#82
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hell yea if you knew how to wield then you could do it all yourself. Ive seen an old 70 model Camaro with a custom engine bay for his BBC that he drag races and the sheet metal work was beautiful done it almost looked like it was a one piece metal that had been bent to be put in place.
#84
No offense but it's going to take a lot more than a thread here if you wish to duplicate what FADI TAMMOUR has done with his car. In the rare event you are able to duplicate it without many years of growing into it I foresee a catastrophe, hopefully on a track and not the street.
#85
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See as a reference point think of it this way. 10lbs is equal to about 75% increase in power over initial setup. (if system is efficient).
So if you have a 400rwhp motor NA; add 300rwhp (from boosts) so theoretically 700rwhp can be achieved from 10psi.
So if you have a 400rwhp motor NA; add 300rwhp (from boosts) so theoretically 700rwhp can be achieved from 10psi.
#86
SIGH....
Thought I would burst the OP's bubble...no one else seems to be having any luck
Seriously though....lets get right to it.
You need a big bore block....big cubes 434 - 454 (bigger the better)
Look....were talking about easily a $25,000 dollar engine and its going to be very single focused.
I can count how many guys on this board made 700-725 HP at the crank on one hand (actually, not even one hand)
-Tony
Thought I would burst the OP's bubble...no one else seems to be having any luck
Seriously though....lets get right to it.
You need a big bore block....big cubes 434 - 454 (bigger the better)
Look....were talking about easily a $25,000 dollar engine and its going to be very single focused.
I can count how many guys on this board made 700-725 HP at the crank on one hand (actually, not even one hand)
-Tony
I'm building an LS7 with 2 goals.
1) 8,000 rpm
2) 800hp (crank)
Number 1 (safely and reliably) basically takes you directly into a solid roller cam setup. we're talking more money than most budget-peoples entire short block setups.
Number 2 requires compression, and the fattest cam you can shove into the hole keeping a minimum PTV clearance.
AKA thousands upon thousands of dollars.
I really hope I can add one more finger onto his hand within the next 3-4 years, and it's worth the wait.
If it was cheap and cost effective, id say a 6.0 block would be the foundation, which PREDATOR already stated. If you wanted boost later, you'll want the iron to hold it all together.
If you run the LS1, id contact CARTEK about getting an engine package setup.
#87
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I'm building an LS7 with 2 goals.
1) 8,000 rpm
2) 800hp (crank)
Number 1 (safely and reliably) basically takes you directly into a solid roller cam setup. we're talking more money than most budget-peoples entire short block setups.
Number 2 requires compression, and the fattest cam you can shove into the hole keeping a minimum PTV clearance.
AKA thousands upon thousands of dollars.
I really hope I can add one more finger onto his hand within the next 3-4 years, and it's worth the wait.
If it was cheap and cost effective, id say a 6.0 block would be the foundation, which PREDATOR already stated. If you wanted boost later, you'll want the iron to hold it all together.
If you run the LS1, id contact CARTEK about getting an engine package setup.
1) 8,000 rpm
2) 800hp (crank)
Number 1 (safely and reliably) basically takes you directly into a solid roller cam setup. we're talking more money than most budget-peoples entire short block setups.
Number 2 requires compression, and the fattest cam you can shove into the hole keeping a minimum PTV clearance.
AKA thousands upon thousands of dollars.
I really hope I can add one more finger onto his hand within the next 3-4 years, and it's worth the wait.
If it was cheap and cost effective, id say a 6.0 block would be the foundation, which PREDATOR already stated. If you wanted boost later, you'll want the iron to hold it all together.
If you run the LS1, id contact CARTEK about getting an engine package setup.
#89
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detoxx and preaditorz ya'll make very good points! I truely know nothing in the F.I. side of things except you can make crazy power with a F.I. set up lol but ill leave that kinda info to guys like ya'll. thanks for answering my questions and i know now i would have to have a pretty good set up.
#90
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detoxx and preaditorz ya'll make very good points! I truely know nothing in the F.I. side of things except you can make crazy power with a F.I. set up lol but ill leave that kinda info to guys like ya'll. thanks for answering my questions and i know now i would have to have a pretty good set up.
#91
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[QUOTE=Freefallin;17492295]Alright guys...first of, thanks a lot for your inputs, appreciate it!
Ok...let me tell you where im at. As far as the block is concerned. My options are off production engines up until 2004: Example: LQ9/4. If there are better options than the LQx than plz do tell. Basically im going to be getting the block from the junkyard. I was all excited about the blocks on texasspeed till i saw how much shipping is going to cost, which is almost the price of the block. I would go with the LS2 but its not available here...hardly see anyone driving a car with one, let alone finding one at the junkyard. Engines prior to 2004 i could easily find though. I was asking about the LQ because as far as i know that seems to be the best option...unless i can use the GM 454 big block...(can i?).
So yeah, what should i go with?
Summary: stroke 454 to 496( go with 10 over pistons for 510 cid) pick up a 300 shot and your there. Even with cast truck heads you can produce 635 hp + the 300 hp nitrus and ur at 935 .Exotic heads and cam and the world is yours!
1. Goal is/was to make 700rwhp N/A in a DD. (im realizing its not feasable from all your replies. So im now asking what is feasable)
2. Car is a 2005 GTO with LS1 (i know '05s came with LS2 but but mine didnt)
3. Engine block options are production engines up until 04
4. Everything else (besides block) i could go aftermarket.
5. Plan on boosting the car later on...and going NOS
6. Ultimate goal is 1000+rwhp
7. Want to build the engine so that it could handle the boost and spraying.
8. Want to build it in a way that i wouldn't have to change anything in order to use FI and NOS.
Basically i want to enjoy a very powerful N/A car now and boost it later.
Are my goals realistic?? If not then plz do suggest a more realistic goal. If it is then plz do tell how i can achieve it considering my above options.[/QUOTE
Ok...let me tell you where im at. As far as the block is concerned. My options are off production engines up until 2004: Example: LQ9/4. If there are better options than the LQx than plz do tell. Basically im going to be getting the block from the junkyard. I was all excited about the blocks on texasspeed till i saw how much shipping is going to cost, which is almost the price of the block. I would go with the LS2 but its not available here...hardly see anyone driving a car with one, let alone finding one at the junkyard. Engines prior to 2004 i could easily find though. I was asking about the LQ because as far as i know that seems to be the best option...unless i can use the GM 454 big block...(can i?).
So yeah, what should i go with?
Summary: stroke 454 to 496( go with 10 over pistons for 510 cid) pick up a 300 shot and your there. Even with cast truck heads you can produce 635 hp + the 300 hp nitrus and ur at 935 .Exotic heads and cam and the world is yours!
1. Goal is/was to make 700rwhp N/A in a DD. (im realizing its not feasable from all your replies. So im now asking what is feasable)
2. Car is a 2005 GTO with LS1 (i know '05s came with LS2 but but mine didnt)
3. Engine block options are production engines up until 04
4. Everything else (besides block) i could go aftermarket.
5. Plan on boosting the car later on...and going NOS
6. Ultimate goal is 1000+rwhp
7. Want to build the engine so that it could handle the boost and spraying.
8. Want to build it in a way that i wouldn't have to change anything in order to use FI and NOS.
Basically i want to enjoy a very powerful N/A car now and boost it later.
Are my goals realistic?? If not then plz do suggest a more realistic goal. If it is then plz do tell how i can achieve it considering my above options.[/QUOTE
Last edited by handyandy496; 06-26-2013 at 12:43 PM. Reason: key prob
#93
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Hell he could get a 572 BBC or a Blueprint BBC all for under 20K and only spend like 2-3k in the engine bay to make it fit and another 5K on a well built transmission and the total at max would be around 27K thats max! Assuming he does a lot of the work by himself to save on money. if he got a 454 it would be a whole lot cheaper like 10K cheaper id say
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[QUOTE="MAC";17485663]LOL good catch i didn't mean that i meant it would be a rare car a lot of people have more SBC thats stroked or some kind of LSX... but an old school BBC in a newer F-body you don't see those every day unless you have one or your friend has one.[/QUOTE
Wow old school BBC in gen 4... do you realize how the motor is held in place?? might as well change what car you're transplanting into IMHO
Wow old school BBC in gen 4... do you realize how the motor is held in place?? might as well change what car you're transplanting into IMHO