Freefallin

I initially wanted to post this question in my previous thread but decided to make a new one for future references… so ppl that have a similar question can easily find the answer.

Notice I ask "the most cost effective” and not “cheap”. Obviously there is more than one way to reach that number. For example, “A” “B” and “C”. “A” would cost $$$, “B” would cost $$$$ and “C” would cost $$$$$. I’m looking for “A”…which is the most cost effective, hence smartest way.

And also with something that is solid and won’t break down easily down the road. Like quality parts. Again I know you can’t buy “budget” parts and expect them to be solid. Basically by “cost effective” I mean it would be more cost effective to make, let’s say 500rwhp, by putting in an LQ9 block than trying to make 500rwhp from an LS1 block…you get the picture. (credit to JakeFusion for that info).

Planning on going FI and NOS later on…so wanting the setup to be “ready” for that and not have to replace things when it comes time to boost. So the setup should be able to handle upwards 1000hp…preferably easily.

Car will be a DD as well. It’s is a GTO with LS1 engine…bone stock at the moment.

Thanks a lot for your inputs guys! Gained a lot of knowledge from you in my previous post…you've been really helpful. This site is officially my fav site EVER!!

squirlNUTZ

454 lsx. Contact http://www.briantooleyracing.com/
705 rwhp

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Soo you wanna make around a 1,000HP down the road right?

PowerAdder

Remove cheap from the entire thought. Your wanting a N/A race engine, that will have to be build with pefection and every part of the build leaning on N/A performance, Then being able to take forced induction and nos to 1000 rwhp, reliable daily driver. I think you have covered ever base, O wait do you want 30mpg??

Freefallin

I knew the word "cheap" was not gonna sound good...OK forget cheap, lets say cost effective.

Freefallin

...Yes

vwdave

iTrader: (3)

I think he would be happy with 28.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

You can pick up an old camper 454 tear it down your self its carburated of course so you could get rid of the LS1 wiring harness or you could make it fuel injected if you want. But the camper 454 is gonna run you about $500 thats a long block btw. Then you can sell as much off that motor to make some money. Get it bored out and a stroke kit. then a good set of H/C/I and proper tuning/timing (depending if it a carb or a EFI system) that is the cheapest way that I know of. The camper 454 is an iron block so if you do FI later on down the road no worries it will gladly take a beating and and then some. keep in mind tho they are 4 bolt mains. I helped my dad build his for his 69 Camaro and it sounds very good we are just having carb issues atm and probably a fuel line issue as well.

Freefallin

Actually it doesn't matter. Gas is $0.36 a gallon here

Freefallin

Wouldn't it be better (cheaper) if i got an LQ9 out of a Escalade or LQ4 out of a Denali from the junk yard?

SS10Tech

Dart sportsman block bored to max.

You will then need cubic inches to get you there. Big blocks and cheap do not go together in the same sentence. Expect to build a 540 or a 598 using a 9.8" DH. Dont bother with anything larger or aftermarket tall decks. The blocks and parts begin to get much more expensive.

Brodix, AFR, or Dart 23-26* heads. You'll want to be wise in head choice, intake cross sectional area, and will need to have the intake + heads port matched with blending. You will need to have the heads shaved and pistons cut for the valves to get compression up if you're going to do it right.

Your biggest problem then is going to be playing the lightweight game with T&D shaft rockers to handle the RPM's.

You're also going to need to stiffen whatever frame you plan to squeeze this between without twisting your frame like a twizzler.

Next you will want to look at crower, callies, or oliver cranks and rods as they will also need to be playing the lightweight game. You could also go aluminum rods as well but will be replacing them more frequently.

As you can see it can be done. But absolutely nothing can be bought cheap when you're talking 700-1000 HP N/A. You're looking at $30,000 in this post alone assuming you can do all of the work yourself. If you cut any of these corners you are gambling with a lot of time and money.

I have gone down this road. Be realistic in what you can afford and what you can actually finish. The more horsepower you desire will do nothing but stress every other component in the vehicle. If there is a weak link that exists, a 1,000 HP big block will gladly point it out for you.

PowerAdder

Well your in the right Forum for that!

PowerAdder

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Yea if you can find them (I cant find them around my town) but if you go the camper motor route you can always say you have a big block LOL it's all so old school with a new school body i would like to do this one day. A EFI or Fuel Injection would run you a grand minimum but id stay with the carb if i got a big block. Its funny how modern cars all have a fuel injection system on them and yet a big block with a carb makes more power and can get around 20 mpg as well.

1BAD98LS1

iTrader: (33)

Where the F*ck are you at so I can go there and buy some LOL....

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

im very serious how many newer F-bodies do you see with a big block in them? Not many so if you did that it would be a dime in a dozen. Yea i fully understand you would have to spend some money on the engine bay to make it fit but most of that you can do yourself to cut down the cost of it. Hell my dads old f-body with the 454 camper motor was installed and build for around $7500 tops it costed 4k for installation, the motor was like $600 (they go for 500-700 depending on where you get it in GA) his headers was like 500 i believe, motor mounts relocation kit was 100 tops, starter was 300 tops, fuel pump was 400, heads was 100 intake 200, carb 400, exhaust was 500 and he got a thumper cam from comp cams for like 400 tops and a cowl hood for like 200 tops.(yea that should be all of it) Its a mild build making 400hp and over 500lbs ft trq running through a TH350, stock rear end and he just spins its one of his cruiser's his other cruiser is a 75 Trans Am with a Buick 455 and yes we are having fuel issues with that too. both cars pull very hard until it starves for fuel tho lol Hes got way more money dumped into the TA tho

PowerAdder

To each there own, and it sure wouldn't be a dime a dozen

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

LOL good catch i didn't mean that i meant it would be a rare car a lot of people have more SBC thats stroked or some kind of LSX... but an old school BBC in a newer F-body you don't see those every day unless you have one or your friend has one.

1BAD98LS1

iTrader: (33)

I've only seen one F-body with a big block in it and it had ALOT of cutting and fab work done to it to make it work. Took months for it to get done. It was at the perf. shop that did my 10pt moly cage. So yeah few and far between LOL

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Id probably do all the cutting first then take it over their and let them piece it back together to try and save some money lol key word try