Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Tearing the block apart is what I'm trying to avoid right now

TheWolfMatt

It may be your only solution though. Good luck with it bud, hope everything turns out ok in the end.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Anyway at this moment I've gone the route of "remove intake/valley cover" to try to check lifters Already took me 3 evenings with all the cleaning and yesterday I stopped because I couldn't remove allen valley cover bolt (passenger side rearmost). Don't know why other 9 bolts are normal 10mm and this one is 5mm inner head...

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

OK, I don't know why did I pull the intake - lifters/lobes of "middle" cylinders can't be seen, only 2 front and 2 rear cylinders (barely) I'm putting it all back together...

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

You are going to have to pull the heads, no way avoiding it. I had a slight tick sound that got louder as well, no barking sound though!!

Here is the thread with plenty of pics:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-breakage.html

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

After I drop oil pan, should I just jiggle the rods to find some of the wiggle differently?
Or should I remove all rod caps?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Start from the top of the motor and then work your way down. If you are going to mess with the bottom end, it's best to remove the motor from the car.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

I already pulled intake and now dropped oil pan like advised earlier. Now I need to know how to check bearings

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

The bearings are in the rods, you will have to disassemble the whole bottom end.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

I know where bearings are, I asked how to check them without removing rod caps
I didn't remove caps today BUT I've found that cam is scored on the "middle" lobes of cylinder 3 and 4, and lifter rollers don't look pretty either
But I guess, since I'm there already, I should still visually check rod bearings?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

That's going to be tough without taking the rods out since they are connected to the crank. You could try to rotate the assembly and see if you hear any noise but I'm figuring that the noise you heard was the cam and lifters. If you want to be thorough, take the motor completely apart to give yourself piece of mind.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Hmm, no thanks Here is the crank with bearings in front of me, and you offer not to check the bearings but take the motor off the car and take apart?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

No, I stated that if you wanted piece of mind, take the motor apart to check the bearings and replace if necessary. It's easier to take the motor apart with the motor out of the car.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

OK whoever is willing to offer his educated advice, here's the latest info.
Rod bearing (checked 2 of 8) are worn but fine. Crank rod journals (2 of 8) are fine.
2 lobes are eaten about .05" by the feel, unfortunately on different sides so both heads will have to be removed.
If I take the engine out, I have to order:
-head gaskets (LS9 I think)
-lifters
-lifter trays
-exhaust gaskets
-cam

Am I missing something?

edit: by the looks of it, I will have to race this engine with bad lifters once again... I just hope metal debris from lifters/cam will not flow into crank bearings...

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Stop racing Seriously if the lifters fall apart there will be a lot more damage!! You will also need intake manifold gaskets, head bolts, header bolts, oil pump, MLS head gaskets (better than that graphite crap which will be a pain to clean off). That's all I can think of for the moment. I had posted a thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-breakage.html, has pics and can pretty much give you an idea of how the repair is going to go.

RockinWs6

From what I hear in your sound clip you have a at 1 bad lifter roller eating your camshaft. I'd stop driving it before lots of badness happens.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Dude, you are nuttier than squirrel poop if you race a motor in that condition. Right now you need a cam and lifters. After your race you are going to need a full rebuild and probably bushings in the lifter bores...expensive work. Might as well buy a new long block. If youve got the money thats cool I guess, it just makes no sense at all to a guy like me.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

<----- that will be your motor after you are done racing...... then no more racing

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

And that's what I've got... 2 of these little bastards ate my camshaft and forced me to take the motor out...

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

What type of engine oil were you using?

Russ Kemp