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Cam first or 243s

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Old 06-22-2013, 06:49 AM
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Default Cam first or 243s

Slowly but surely building my ss to the specs I want. Have the money but what should I go with first. Already spent money on a new short block. Thinking of getting rid of my 241 and upgrading to 243s. I've heard of the milling and porting but not so sure what is better. Since a lot of guys on here talk about trick flow heads being better than 243s then that 243s milled are badass heads blah blah blah the **** goes on. First build so I wanted to see what slme went with first, already have a cam in mind.
Old 06-22-2013, 08:47 AM
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243s are a good upgrade; ported 243s are better, and Trick Flows are still better. Whether any these head choices should also be milled depends on the cam and how much compression you need. But to give intelligent advice on any of these options you will need provide information on how the car is to be used, what your goals are in terms of power, and the level of your budget.
Old 06-22-2013, 09:07 AM
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If you're not going too big on cam, I'd go cam first. If its an A4, I'd put in a GOOD converter, THEN a cam.
Old 06-22-2013, 09:14 AM
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Not a car for the strip, just wanted to get around the 400hp territory. I've been wanting better heads and a cam. Some people say things like go with heads first and then vise versa.For the cam I wanted better high ends. But doing so I knew I'd need better heads. Budget I'd say 243s
Old 06-22-2013, 09:14 AM
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It's m6
Old 06-22-2013, 09:40 AM
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You can do either heads or cam first, but most folks do the cam first. You should select a cam that will work with the heads you eventually plan to install. The cam change will also require an upgrade in valve springs and push rods at least. It is also a good idea to replace/upgrade the timing chain, and many upgrade the oil pump along with a cam change.
Old 06-22-2013, 10:19 AM
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I just did everything at once. I didn't want to risk a new cam with old lifters, along with everything else. Might be worth looking into doing it all together. Like Darkman said, oil pump, lifters, trays, the whole 9yds.

If you have a new short block though I'm assuming everything is new?

Check the classifieds. You'd be surprised at the kind of "money in hand" deals you can get.
Old 06-22-2013, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkman
You can do either heads or cam first, but most folks do the cam first. You should select a cam that will work with the heads you eventually plan to install. The cam change will also require an upgrade in valve springs and push rods at least. It is also a good idea to replace/upgrade the timing chain, and many upgrade the oil pump along with a cam change.
i would think that doing it exactly opposite would be better. the heads are usually a larger purchase than the cam is, and you can easily change your mind on heads from one day to the next (hell, even one minute to the next sometimes.... )...springs/pushrods are super easy to do on-car, too...but if you've already got that larger purchase out of the way, you can then focus on researching the best cam for those heads based on your goals.

of course, there is no "right way" to do it, there's only what's right for you...if you do end up buying some 243's but change your mind and go with a different heads/cam setup later based on new information or a good price, i guarantee you that you can offload those 243's without much trouble...someone is almost always looking for a set of them.
Old 06-22-2013, 01:28 PM
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My vote would be the same time....Its a good idea to swap the lifters with a new cam and the heads need to come off for lifters.
Old 06-22-2013, 01:42 PM
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If you had to do one or the other....definitely cam first..
More power comparably to just heads...gives it a noticeable chop and an aggressive tone with what ever catback/duals you have on the car.
Ported 243s will not produce alot of power with the stock cam...but a cam will produce alot of power with 241s.
Old 06-22-2013, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 02Z28LS1
i would think that doing it exactly opposite would be better. the heads are usually a larger purchase than the cam is, and you can easily change your mind on heads from one day to the next (hell, even one minute to the next sometimes.... )...springs/pushrods are super easy to do on-car, too...but if you've already got that larger purchase out of the way, you can then focus on researching the best cam for those heads based on your goals.

of course, there is no "right way" to do it, there's only what's right for you...if you do end up buying some 243's but change your mind and go with a different heads/cam setup later based on new information or a good price, i guarantee you that you can offload those 243's without much trouble...someone is almost always looking for a set of them.
You'll get no argument from me. I like the idea of doing heads first - they make power everywhere. I simply reported that most folks opt for the cam first, which based visits to this and similar forums, I believe to be a fact.
Old 06-22-2013, 02:50 PM
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I guess it all really falls on budget for your setup, to my point of view, heads are coming off one way or another. So only makes sense to really just do the heads first, that way I can get a basis if I really like the 243s or not with the stock setup already
Old 06-22-2013, 02:56 PM
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are you planning on getting the LS6 heads ported? if so, i'd personally recommend getting new ones vs. buying used and getting them ported, unless you can get the heads and/or porting work done really inexpensively:

read me

Originally Posted by Darkman
You'll get no argument from me. I like the idea of doing heads first - they make power everywhere. I simply reported that most folks opt for the cam first, which based visits to this and similar forums, I believe to be a fact.
no worries, just trying to help cover all the different viewpoints out there, and for the budget-minded, i think the heads first is the safer bet for the long run.
Old 06-22-2013, 03:30 PM
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can you do valve springs in the car. I have cartek ported 4x blower heads and i think im experiencing valve float. Im not sure what they use for a valve spring in there head builds but i stepped the boost up from14 to 16.5 and anything past 15 the power falls off. boost goes up power goes down AFRS are steady ??
Old 06-22-2013, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by autoaddictions
can you do valve springs in the car. I have cartek ported 4x blower heads and i think im experiencing valve float. Im not sure what they use for a valve spring in there head builds but i stepped the boost up from14 to 16.5 and anything past 15 the power falls off. boost goes up power goes down AFRS are steady ??
If you are asking whether you can change valve springs with the motor (heads) still in the car, the answer is yes. You will need the right tools.
Old 06-22-2013, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkman
If you are asking whether you can change valve springs with the motor (heads) still in the car, the answer is yes. You will need the right tools.
thanks thats what i needed
Old 06-22-2013, 07:48 PM
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Just do it all at once, I got my 243 heads sent to lloyd elliott portwork for stage 2 work and this is what he did, 2.02/1.60 valves
Patriot Gold Dbl springs, Ti retainers, locks and locators
custom valve job
mill, cleaning and assembly
flow about 305/220

then i got a custom grind cam from him and this is the cam specs 223/227 610/.614 112 LSA
Old 06-23-2013, 01:19 AM
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How do you like the Lloyd Elliot heads?
Old 06-23-2013, 08:00 AM
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He did really good work on them. fast turn around time, good customer service, he emailed me everytime quickly.
Old 06-23-2013, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkman
If you are asking whether you can change valve springs with the motor (heads) still in the car, the answer is yes. You will need the right tools.
yup, something like this


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