Thinking About Checking My Cam Specs
Thinking About Checking My Cam Specs I recently purchased an SNS TorqueMaster Stage 2 cam for my build.
After reading the post regarding COMP Cams quality control issues, I am a little worried that the cam specs listed on the side of the box might not be correct.
The mods I am doing to my engine are by no means cheap and If I do not get the cam specs confirmed, this would eat away at me throughout the build process. If anything were to go wrong after the build, cam wise, I would probably never forgive myself for not checking!
So, to put my mind at ease, what route should I take to get the cam specs checked out? Should I order a cam degree kit or head down to the local automotive repair joint and have the cam checked there?
I know this might seam a little overboard as some folks simply plop the cam in, but I felt this is the right course of action based on the monetary investment of this build.
Thanks!
Q
After reading the post regarding COMP Cams quality control issues, I am a little worried that the cam specs listed on the side of the box might not be correct.
The mods I am doing to my engine are by no means cheap and If I do not get the cam specs confirmed, this would eat away at me throughout the build process. If anything were to go wrong after the build, cam wise, I would probably never forgive myself for not checking!
So, to put my mind at ease, what route should I take to get the cam specs checked out? Should I order a cam degree kit or head down to the local automotive repair joint and have the cam checked there?
I know this might seam a little overboard as some folks simply plop the cam in, but I felt this is the right course of action based on the monetary investment of this build.
Thanks!
Q
Is this something a my local performance shop can accomplish or would I be better off ordering a degree kit?
Jake, I wanted to let you know I am kinda copying some of the performance parts upgrades you are using for my own upgrade. Your build appears to be very well thought out and with my ignorance on a large amount of this stuff, I figured why not
I few of the things I am using are the Manton pushrods, Synergy oil pump, Morel lifters, and the Lunati trunion upgrade: I take it you are using the stock GM rockers.
Anyhoot, thanks again..
Q
Jake, I wanted to let you know I am kinda copying some of the performance parts upgrades you are using for my own upgrade. Your build appears to be very well thought out and with my ignorance on a large amount of this stuff, I figured why not
I few of the things I am using are the Manton pushrods, Synergy oil pump, Morel lifters, and the Lunati trunion upgrade: I take it you are using the stock GM rockers.
Anyhoot, thanks again..
Q
That's correct.
I've softened my opinion of Comp here recently, but only because I think a lot of issues are related to poorly thought out systems and use of cheap oil. If you buy a "bulk" cam and not a custom grind, they really aren't far off spec. The one-off customs they have some issues with tho.
If you have a system that's well sorted and are willing to run good oil, I think a Comp cam is fine. Right now I'm assembling with Joe Gibbs assembly grease and will run Joe Gibbs 15W50 Break In oil before moving to Valvoline VR1 5W30 conventional oil...
Do I think an EPS or Futral cam on Cam Motion is better? Probably so. But the lead time on a custom Cam Motion cam is pretty long.
I've softened my opinion of Comp here recently, but only because I think a lot of issues are related to poorly thought out systems and use of cheap oil. If you buy a "bulk" cam and not a custom grind, they really aren't far off spec. The one-off customs they have some issues with tho.
If you have a system that's well sorted and are willing to run good oil, I think a Comp cam is fine. Right now I'm assembling with Joe Gibbs assembly grease and will run Joe Gibbs 15W50 Break In oil before moving to Valvoline VR1 5W30 conventional oil...
Do I think an EPS or Futral cam on Cam Motion is better? Probably so. But the lead time on a custom Cam Motion cam is pretty long.
That's correct.
I've softened my opinion of Comp here recently, but only because I think a lot of issues are related to poorly thought out systems and use of cheap oil. If you buy a "bulk" cam and not a custom grind, they really aren't far off spec. The one-off customs they have some issues with tho.
If you have a system that's well sorted and are willing to run good oil, I think a Comp cam is fine. Right now I'm assembling with Joe Gibbs assembly grease and will run Joe Gibbs 15W50 Break In oil before moving to Valvoline VR1 5W30 conventional oil...
Do I think an EPS or Futral cam on Cam Motion is better? Probably so. But the lead time on a custom Cam Motion cam is pretty long.
I've softened my opinion of Comp here recently, but only because I think a lot of issues are related to poorly thought out systems and use of cheap oil. If you buy a "bulk" cam and not a custom grind, they really aren't far off spec. The one-off customs they have some issues with tho.
If you have a system that's well sorted and are willing to run good oil, I think a Comp cam is fine. Right now I'm assembling with Joe Gibbs assembly grease and will run Joe Gibbs 15W50 Break In oil before moving to Valvoline VR1 5W30 conventional oil...
Do I think an EPS or Futral cam on Cam Motion is better? Probably so. But the lead time on a custom Cam Motion cam is pretty long.
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Verdad Gallardo You can degree a cam with the heads on. You just have to account for the rocker arm ratio in your calculations. Also, if you use a checker spring, you can use your hydraulic lifters.
Here's an interesting video from Comp:
Here's an interesting video from Comp:
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
However, if the engine is on a stand, you can get by without checker springs. Just rotate the engine so the #1 cylinder bore is vertical, remove the #1 rocker arms completely, lay some guides on the top of the head so the pushrods don't flop around, and indicate directly off the top of the pushrod. The last time I did this I used blue masking tape folded over on itself so the non adhesive folded edge just barely touched the pushrod and kept it from flopping around. You have ot be careful the the guides don't cause the pushrods to hand up, which means they just barely touch the pushrods, and don't squeeze them in position. It is hard to do this on an engine in the car only because the pushrods will want to hang up on the head or the guide while they are resting there at a shallow angle.
Depending on the diameter of the pushrod hole and the diameter of the indicator tip, you may need to put some tape over the end of the pushrod so the indicator tip does not move and go down the hole while rotating the crank.
I'm sure some people won't like this method, but it's been done lots of times.
FWIW it's worth I attempted to degree my cam using hydraulic lifters and checker springs(it's a long story, I wanted to see if it work). It did not. The checker springs were from Comp, I don't know if there are lighter springs out there.
Just when I would find max lift I could see the lifter bleed down. I don't see how it could be done accurately.
Just when I would find max lift I could see the lifter bleed down. I don't see how it could be done accurately.
You can degree a cam with the heads on. You just have to account for the rocker arm ratio in your calculations. Also, if you use a checker spring, you can use your hydraulic lifters.
Here's an interesting video from Comp: Quick Tech Video: How to Degree Your COMP Cams® Camshaft - YouTube
Here's an interesting video from Comp: Quick Tech Video: How to Degree Your COMP Cams® Camshaft - YouTube
Great information and great video!
I had to watch it twice but after the second time, the degree project seams pretty straight forward.
My hat is off to everyone chiming in and helping a rookie out with his first major auto project. The information from all of you is invaluable!
Q
I had to watch it twice but after the second time, the degree project seams pretty straight forward.
My hat is off to everyone chiming in and helping a rookie out with his first major auto project. The information from all of you is invaluable!
Q
Last edited by Qfly; Jul 8, 2013 at 11:14 PM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 8
From: Katy, TX
FWIW it's worth I attempted to degree my cam using hydraulic lifters and checker springs(it's a long story, I wanted to see if it work). It did not. The checker springs were from Comp, I don't know if there are lighter springs out there.
Just when I would find max lift I could see the lifter bleed down. I don't see how it could be done accurately.
Just when I would find max lift I could see the lifter bleed down. I don't see how it could be done accurately.
I haven't put the Comp checker springs on yet, but they are easy to compress with my fingers. Point is, you just need 0 lash. You don't need the rocker to be anything but snug on the pushrod.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Yes, you need a piston stop for the spark plug hole, and you can use checker springs. If the engine is in the car, checker springs are your best bet.
However, if the engine is on a stand, you can get by without checker springs. Just rotate the engine so the #1 cylinder bore is vertical, remove the #1 rocker arms completely, lay some guides on the top of the head so the pushrods don't flop around, and indicate directly off the top of the pushrod. The last time I did this I used blue masking tape folded over on itself so the non adhesive folded edge just barely touched the pushrod and kept it from flopping around. You have ot be careful the the guides don't cause the pushrods to hand up, which means they just barely touch the pushrods, and don't squeeze them in position. It is hard to do this on an engine in the car only because the pushrods will want to hang up on the head or the guide while they are resting there at a shallow angle.
Depending on the diameter of the pushrod hole and the diameter of the indicator tip, you may need to put some tape over the end of the pushrod so the indicator tip does not move and go down the hole while rotating the crank.
I'm sure some people won't like this method, but it's been done lots of times.
However, if the engine is on a stand, you can get by without checker springs. Just rotate the engine so the #1 cylinder bore is vertical, remove the #1 rocker arms completely, lay some guides on the top of the head so the pushrods don't flop around, and indicate directly off the top of the pushrod. The last time I did this I used blue masking tape folded over on itself so the non adhesive folded edge just barely touched the pushrod and kept it from flopping around. You have ot be careful the the guides don't cause the pushrods to hand up, which means they just barely touch the pushrods, and don't squeeze them in position. It is hard to do this on an engine in the car only because the pushrods will want to hang up on the head or the guide while they are resting there at a shallow angle.
Depending on the diameter of the pushrod hole and the diameter of the indicator tip, you may need to put some tape over the end of the pushrod so the indicator tip does not move and go down the hole while rotating the crank.
I'm sure some people won't like this method, but it's been done lots of times.
