5.7 or 6.0
Yea I blew.my bottom end so I was looking into short blocks.. 110# is a lot of extra weight in the front , and I don't want to redo the suspension and all that, and I'm not going FI just a little 100-150 shot of juice with some forged pistons... I think I'll stay aluminum.. now my question is would it be cheaper to rebuild my block or just buy a short block?
Well... The Pewter car had skinnies the entire time and it had been well over a year since I had drove it with the aluminum block. No front sway bar the entire time. It didn't handle worth a damn but I attribute most of that to the skinnies.
The red car had the front sway bar when I got it on a 275 tire, 245 now. I removed the front sway about 2 weeks ago.. I noticed that a little but nothing crazy.
I don't notice my iron block car handling any different than my GFs stock 00 Z28. I have Qa1s also.
If it does make an impact it isn't one that is too serious. I guess someone who loves cornering would notice. I like to be able to take corners but I don't get serious with it at all, just some spirited driving here and there.
But if you look at lq4 or lq9 threads in the dyno and racing sections of this site the results are generally the same as average ls1 stuff but some extra ft lbs of torque.
I've seen multiple threads where users were asking why their car was slower or barely faster with a new 6l combo than it was with a prior ls1 combo.
You might be correct that it is a case of people taking the build for granted and assuming more cubes is going to equal significantly more HP. Torque sure, but rwhp increases seem to disappoint.
It is 18? more cubes.. That is nothing hardly.
The added benefit comes from being able to optimize the setup with a nicer set of heads... Most people don't take advantage of this so never see the potential a 6.0 has over a 5.7.
I wouldn't run the same heads on a 6.0 as I was a 5.7 unless $ didn't allow any different.
The added benefit comes from being able to optimize the setup with a nicer set of heads... Most people don't take advantage of this so never see the potential a 6.0 has over a 5.7.
I wouldn't run the same heads on a 6.0 as I was a 5.7 unless $ didn't allow any different.
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Yea I blew.my bottom end so I was looking into short blocks.. 110# is a lot of extra weight in the front , and I don't want to redo the suspension and all that, and I'm not going FI just a little 100-150 shot of juice with some forged pistons... I think I'll stay aluminum.. now my question is would it be cheaper to rebuild my block or just buy a short block?
Yea I just got off the phone with G&G pretty good prices I think I can save about 700 just to have them rebuild it with what I want as well.Thanks for all the info everyone I know for sure what I'm doing now
Some of the sponsors selling shortblocks are doing so with warranties for some hard to beat prices.
Maybe, maybe not depending on parts selection, machining costs in the area, if there is a core program, if you are paying someone for assembly or need tools, etc.
Some of the sponsors selling shortblocks are doing so with warranties for some hard to beat prices.
Some of the sponsors selling shortblocks are doing so with warranties for some hard to beat prices.
I'm going through the same thing right now. I was originally building a 2005 lq4 motor for my car but my camaro has a good ls1 in it. Was going to put some ported 243s ls6 intake and a tick cam into the lq4 because of the better rods and bolts. But now I'm thinking about just building the ls1, in just worried about the ls1 rod bolts spinning to 6600.
I'm going through the same thing right now. I was originally building a 2005 lq4 motor for my car but my camaro has a good ls1 in it. Was going to put some ported 243s ls6 intake and a tick cam into the lq4 because of the better rods and bolts. But now I'm thinking about just building the ls1, in just worried about the ls1 rod bolts spinning to 6600.
I didn't add that into the equation.. so I'm guessing 1900-2000 I'm going to order the phobe forged pistons there 500$ plus the decking and, cleaning and can bearing 450.. 75 a hour to reassembling I think it was 3-4 hours? Balancing the crank 200 am I missing anything?
I was going to break it down myself, and have the shop reassemble it, the cost for the motor I'm looking at, at tsp is 2200 +300 shipping so 2500, it wouldn't be cheaper to have the shop"reputable " shop do it to balance the crank and hone deck new cam bearing for 450 I'm going to buy the forged pistons there for 500 I'm looking at around 1700$ is that right? If so I'd rather go that route and out the other 700 in nitrous