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Which Cam & Mill on Heads?

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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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Default Which Cam & Mill on Heads?

Hello everyone

Car Info
  • 99 Pontiac Trans Am
  • LS1 Stock Engine w/ 87,000 Miles
  • M6
  • LT Headers
  • MSD Spark Plug Wires
  • SLP Lid & Air Induction
  • 3.42 Gears
  • Tune

We'll I just recently purchased some 799 Heads. Keep in mind I DD this TA and want as much HP/TQ like everybody else does. (400-430 hp/tq) I am going to take them in to get ported, polished and milled. But I've read lots of info on certain cams for m6 and for a4. Also I've read lots of info on the 799 heads and 220-230 cams. On the mills for the heads I haven't familiarized myself w/ that. Please advise me in the right direction, Thanks!

My questions
  1. What cam will work awesome w/ these heads?
  2. What mill should I do to the 799 heads?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 01:05 PM
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How much to mill depends on what cam you get and octane of gas you use. 243/799 heads will give you a little more compression over LS1 heads anyway. I would suggest checking out the Tick Performance SNS torqueMAX Stage 2 cam. Ask Martin@Tick how much you can mill with that cam. I would probably mill .010 to clean up the surfaces and increase CR a little.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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The best way to mill is to take a PTV measurement with your intended cam on a dry fit, then decide what you want to mill while maintaining a minimum PTV. For instance, I had my 799s cleaned up, approx .010. During a dry fit I had .120 and .100 PTV. I had them cut another .030 or so and that reduced PTV to .090 and .070. If this is a daily driver I understand this may be difficult to do, so knowing which cam you are going to go with would help us to guesstimate. If you mill though, please verify PTV during install.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 02:36 PM
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I'd run a .040" head gasket over milling personally as it doesn't hurt the airflow yet still improves quench. If you were going to mill them, you could do the standard .030"...I'd run a 224/230 113+2 XFI cam either way as it makes great average torque/power across the rpm range and has a nice lope to it.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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thanks for all the responses and so quickly... Honestly I thought milling was mandatory or "A MUST" thats why I asked, and yeah i didn't know the PTV clearance w/ milling and the cam, good info! I use 93 octane in this thing ALL THE TIME

Batboy & SNLPerformance - What kind of HP/TQ would I expect w/ that kind of cam w/ my setup? (for each cam you two recommended me) Thanks!
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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The 227/235 110 will make slightly more peak power over a narrower range at a slightly lower rpm, keep in mind it has 10* more overlap.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 05:34 PM
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Honestly, both recommended cams are good and will probably give you fairly similar results. I will say this though, Steve at SNL will treat you right. I've had my GTO worked on by them 2 or 3 times and they know their stuff and do excellent work.
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SNLPerformance
I'd run a .040" head gasket over milling personally as it doesn't hurt the airflow yet still improves quench. If you were going to mill them, you could do the standard .030"...I'd run a 224/230 113+2 XFI cam either way as it makes great average torque/power across the rpm range and has a nice lope to it.
Go bigger, but keep the overlap down for drivability. SNL installed my ported stage 2.5 LS6's earlier this year w/ a Cometic .040 head gasket and we went ahead and left my heads stock with the 64cc chamber to not diminish any flow. My cam is an EPS lobed 230/230 on a 112. It's been a great setup with power across the rev band and daily drivability. Most likely, I'll be changing bump sticks for a little more power (enough seems to never quench the thirst for more) but I will be keeping it with 8* of overlap or less. 8* is about as much overlap as you can have before drivability suffers pretty significantly.

Learn from me, go big enough so you don't have to go back!
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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thanks again for all the info and feedback.. I am looking at purchasing the GM ls7 lifters, ls2 timing chain and other things for this build...
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 10:31 AM
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The TSP 228R will get you there. Mine through down 414 on a stingy dyno.
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Most setups will do better with a split pattern 61cc with .040 gasket and. a 226/230 111 would be sweet
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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Here is a great example of what can be done with ported 799/243 heads and the SNS Stage 2 cam:



Keep in mind this is on a Mustang Dyno as well. It did have a Fast 92/92 combo though.

The SNS Stage 2 makes stupid average power, and under the curve power. When you can close the intake valve at 40* ABDC, yet have a cam that still pulls to 7000rpm if needed, that's a winner.

Here is another on a dyno jet:



This is with unported 243's, valve job, Fast 78 and 11:1 compression through a cut-out. Disregard the peak torque number, it really made 414rwtq.

I have to kindly disagree with Steve's narrower range comment, as you can see....this cam makes impressive average power.

Last edited by Sales@Tick; Jul 19, 2013 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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Another +1 for Martin really good guy will not steer you wrong
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 08:16 AM
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thanks martin & everyone else for there input. Martin, I like that you posted up some dyno sheets w/ proof and info on those setups. I forgot to mention that I have a ls6 intake on my car.

Martin what kind of springs/valves and the rest of the setup for that cam would I need?
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 03:01 PM
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Not many people pull out one custom grind cam, put in another and show the dyno differences, here's an example of my personal car with that being the only mod...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/perf...installed.html

A cam is always a trade off and certainly can tailor different builds, so it's hard to compare a certain person dyno when you don't know all the details. Keep in mind the exact motor combo in two different cars can easily dyno 30rwhp less with different wheels/tires, clutch, and gears.
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by avoctane
thanks martin & everyone else for there input. Martin, I like that you posted up some dyno sheets w/ proof and info on those setups. I forgot to mention that I have a ls6 intake on my car.

Martin what kind of springs/valves and the rest of the setup for that cam would I need?
No problem, I have a ton of dyno graphs I keep saved for occasions such as this thread.

I would highly recommend the BTR "Platinum" dual springs with Titanium retainers, and Comp Hi-Tech .105" wall 5/16" diameter push rods to match. These are an upcharge over the normal steel retainers and .080" wall push rods we sell for 689.99 in our basic camshaft package, but IMO are worth extra power and valve train stability.
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 10:04 AM
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We can help you out across the board on this project. We offer cnc machining of customers cylinder heads for a very attractive price! Not to mention that we will mill and setup your cylinder heads for the camshaft you select free of charge so you know you'll have proper p/v clearance. Full cnc porting customer heads runs $750 with cnc valve job, cleaning, decking, and reassembly!!

Give us a call & we can discuss it with you.
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