How would this cam perform in this set up?
How would this cam perform in this set up? Hey guys I have been doing some research on different folks set ups and thought these specs would be good for my build. Here are the specs 231/235 @ 50 .617.621 with a 112 lsa. My set up is a lq9 6.0 block, ls6 intake, 243 heads (non ported, porting wasnt in the budget), ported ls6 oil pump. And I was going to call Martin at Tick and get a cam kit to fit my specs listed above. I am looking for a car with good drivability, decent mileage, and the most power I can get staying in line with my other goals. I was hoping to get somewhere around 430 hp or more. The trans is going to be a 4l60e with a shift kit and some other mods most likely, not sure on the stall converter but gears I want 411 but would take 373 if thats a better overall set up. Sorry to post so much, I hope I am not getting on anyones nerves. Thanks guys for any and all help and advice guys.
I never heard if spec u cam. I may have to check they're site out. Everyone refers me to Martin at tick, I talked to him and he seemed really knowledgable. It was just rather late when I found this numbers and they were no longer open. I was just gonna check the pulse if the people while I was at least feeling like I somewhat know what I'm doing
What about it?
I said 231/238 112+2 on the LSL/LXL lobes.
If you want more torque, you can go a little smaller on the duration and tighten up the LSA/ICL like the Tick SNS Stg 2: 227/234 110+3. But since it's a 6L, I'd probably go a little bigger and do the following:
If you don't have money to port the heads but can mill them for ~$80 to 61cc and run .040" cometics, I'd do the 231/238 112+2. Even with 12.1:1 CR, you'd have good cranking compression, something that drives decently with ~10 degrees of overlap and something that makes power and torque. Everywhere.
I said 231/238 112+2 on the LSL/LXL lobes.
If you want more torque, you can go a little smaller on the duration and tighten up the LSA/ICL like the Tick SNS Stg 2: 227/234 110+3. But since it's a 6L, I'd probably go a little bigger and do the following:
If you don't have money to port the heads but can mill them for ~$80 to 61cc and run .040" cometics, I'd do the 231/238 112+2. Even with 12.1:1 CR, you'd have good cranking compression, something that drives decently with ~10 degrees of overlap and something that makes power and torque. Everywhere.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: BFE
(I thought to put on the right track).
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Verdad Gallardo Pred I have heard you know your your performance stuff. I have seen you mentioned in more than a few threads. I'm really gonna give them a jingle now. Thanks!!
All of my LS1 customers with 4l60e's make 400-410rwhp/375-380rwtq cam only with the LS2 Stage 2 SNS cam. 385/360 on a Mustang Dyno for another 4l60e car.
Has a nice torque curve and will run well at the track too.
Has a nice torque curve and will run well at the track too.
I am probably going be calling you tomorrow to set up my order. I dont need the ported oil pump but everything else in ur kit is really going to complete my build, what time do you guys open in the am and what all gaskets come in your kits again?
For 789.97 you will get the cam, BTR dual Platinum Spring kit with steel retainers, Comp Push rods, LS2 timing chain, balancer bolt, 2x water pump gaskets, timing cover gasket and a timing cover seal.
I think I have the balancer bolt as well, what are the spring rates on those springs about how long will they last?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: BFE
No, about the same. If you cam, plan on:
1- Checking springs once a year (regardless of how much it ran)
2- Replace springs as required.
springs do not have an expiration time/mileage or date. It all depends on individual setups, some might last longer than others but keeping a serious eye on them is considered regular maintenance just like changing oil.
1- Checking springs once a year (regardless of how much it ran)
2- Replace springs as required.
springs do not have an expiration time/mileage or date. It all depends on individual setups, some might last longer than others but keeping a serious eye on them is considered regular maintenance just like changing oil.
No, about the same. If you cam, plan on:
1- Checking springs once a year (regardless of how much it ran)
2- Replace springs as required.
springs do not have an expiration time/mileage or date. It all depends on individual setups, some might last longer than others but keeping a serious eye on them is considered regular maintenance just like changing oil.
1- Checking springs once a year (regardless of how much it ran)
2- Replace springs as required.
springs do not have an expiration time/mileage or date. It all depends on individual setups, some might last longer than others but keeping a serious eye on them is considered regular maintenance just like changing oil.
So even going with a milder cam won't improve spring life, dang that sucks. How do you check the cam springs anyway? Thanks pred z this is great info.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Usually you check the spring pressures at a machine shop who has the tools.
I bring them all the springs, they measure and I get the report. If one is bad or on the edge, ALL get changed.