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Will LS7 lifters hold up?

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Old 08-06-2013, 08:09 AM
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I use to be a big fan of the LS7 lifters, now I recommend aftermarket when asked what I prefer to use.

The design of an aftermarket short-travel or tie bar style lifter is just flat out superior in every which way to that of a stock lifter.

You just have to ask yourself some questions:

What is my budget?

What are my intended usages for my car?

What RPM will I turn my engine to?

What type of open load and seat load do my springs have?

Is there a possibility my spring pressure is too great for a stock lifter to obtain full valve lift?

What lobes does my camshaft have?

What is the weight of my intake and exhaust valves?

What rockers am I using?

What push rod am I using?


There are so many things that go into choosing what valve train set-up is right for your application. This is where a shop or a cam guy that specifies you an entire valve train system and not just a cam that will make the most power with the most aggressive lobes is worth its weight in gold.
Old 08-06-2013, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
Wow I didn't know they use Johnson short travel lifters in Top Fuel

That is a pretty big sweeping statement, I would just state your personal experience, because just a few weeks ago you had morels and thought those were the cats meow...


I know of 4 people personally that have had ls7 lifters fail and take out a cam...and I also know of lots more making the same power and their ls7s are fine...keep the ramp rates soft and valves light, a good spring with not huge open rates is a good idea too...
I didn't know any .842" lifters in the LS1 are in Top Fuel... For these cars, the Johnsons will handle the spring pressures you normally see.

And yes, I still stand behind my assessment of Morel. On the whole, they are great lifters. After doing more research, I wanted to swap over to a short-travel lifter. The Johnson's are more cost effective than the Morel short-travel and are built to withstand similar spring rates and RPMs.

Also, the entire system has to be matched well. With mild enough lobes, light spring pressure, and stiff pushrods, LS7 lifters would actually work. But I'd rather get better tolerances, better materials, and a link-bar setup. The Street Morels provide that at a better price point than the others. But if you want to step up to much more expensive lifters, I'd like to get additional features like the short-travel and axle oiling with the Johnsons.
Old 08-06-2013, 10:12 AM
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Guys, I know the LS7 might not be the end all be all lifter out there, but just about every C6Z H/C swap uses LS7 lifters as the replacement. Again, I'm not stating that there aren't better products out there, there is just a whole bunch of folks running them w/o an issue and spinning their motors too and past 7k.

Last edited by 427zm; 08-06-2013 at 03:28 PM.
Old 08-06-2013, 10:18 AM
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LS7s also have much lighter valves even though they are larger. They also use 3/8" pushrods. Both of those help out tremendously.
Old 08-06-2013, 02:41 PM
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What is wrong with COMP 850s?

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Old 08-06-2013, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
LS7s also have much lighter valves even though they are larger. They also use 3/8" pushrods. Both of those help out tremendously.
I would almost be willing to say that the 3/8" push rod helps more than the lighter intake valve.

Love me some stiff push rods...mmm...beefy.
Old 08-06-2013, 08:05 PM
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You're right. When the pushrod is pole vaulting off the lifter, the lifter gets unhappy when it crashes back down on the exhaust lobe...
Old 08-06-2013, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
I would almost be willing to say that the 3/8" push rod helps more than the lighter intake valve.

Love me some stiff push rods...mmm...beefy.


Alright....when the thread goes in the direction of talking about beefy, stiff, rods it may be time to shut her down....
Old 08-06-2013, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
You're right. When the pushrod is pole vaulting off the lifter, the lifter gets unhappy when it crashes back down on the exhaust lobe...
Both sides are taking a beating when the separation that was created by the loft is taken up. Not good for a lifter. Short travel lifter by design can take a beating and has a much better chance fighting all the negative things that are associated with a hydraulic lifter.
Originally Posted by 96lt4c4
Alright....when the thread goes in the direction of talking about beefy, stiff, rods it may be time to shut her down....
Get your mind out of the gutter!
Old 08-08-2013, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
I didn't know any .842" lifters in the LS1 are in Top Fuel... For these cars, the Johnsons will handle the spring pressures you normally see.

And yes, I still stand behind my assessment of Morel. On the whole, they are great lifters. After doing more research, I wanted to swap over to a short-travel lifter. The Johnson's are more cost effective than the Morel short-travel and are built to withstand similar spring rates and RPMs.

Also, the entire system has to be matched well. With mild enough lobes, light spring pressure, and stiff pushrods, LS7 lifters would actually work. But I'd rather get better tolerances, better materials, and a link-bar setup. The Street Morels provide that at a better price point than the others. But if you want to step up to much more expensive lifters, I'd like to get additional features like the short-travel and axle oiling with the Johnsons.
.750 wheel lifter > .700 wheel lifter... End of story. Street series morel's are on a .700 wheel, but the 5206 morels use a.750 wheel. That is what makes a morel different than a stock gm lifter or other popular brands that are more affordable. A larger wheel can simply take more load.
Old 08-08-2013, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by J Glen
.750 wheel lifter > .700 wheel lifter... End of story. Street series morel's are on a .700 wheel, but the 5206 morels use a.750 wheel. That is what makes a morel different than a stock gm lifter or other popular brands that are more affordable. A larger wheel can simply take more load.
According to physics and strictly regarding bearings...yes a .750" roller can take more load. But this only holds true if the body design will allow for the "higher" load. The differences between a quality .750" and .700" bearing in the applications we're talking about is moot. And if you think that's the only difference between OEM and aftermarket then you'd definitely be wrong.

The main issue with running a .750" roller in an .842" diameter lifter is the forked end of the body. There are plenty of pictures floating around with the "fork" broke off. This happens due to embrittlement caused from from cam walk, violent lobes, and high spring pressures. Once the forks start deflecting it changes the centerline of the roller and also puts strain on the staked roller axle, causing it to walk or start spinning. We all know what happens when that occurs...chews up a cam or you need to sleeve some lifter bores. With that style body you cannot stake the axle as hard as you can a fully shrouded .700" roller. Obviously these are the few and far between failures. Both designs have been around a long time and work with many combinations...

Still, the main cause for bearing failures is the lack of oil to the bearing during low oil pressure conditions (idling). Unless your dealing with poorly sorted needle bearings stuffed inside a sub-par housing...then all bets are off LOL!
Old 08-08-2013, 03:07 PM
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ls7 lifters .617/624 lift 5000 miles. Use to shift at 6500, now 6300. Silent valve train.
Old 01-03-2015, 11:18 AM
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ls7 lifters, 50,000 miles 0.660 lift LSL cam lobes, 7200 shift point on occasion.
No disasters yet. Springs being changed with LXL cam going in for a bit more margin.



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