How cool is too cool?
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How cool is too cool? Just installed an ebay aluminum radiator in my 2000 5.3 silverado, and now once the thermostat opens its doesnt get any hotter. Has to be about a solid 25 degree drop from where it was before. I think its fine for now, but once witner comes along.... that thermostat is going to be cycling non stop and I am concerned about getting enough heat. Radiator has two full rows vs. factory single row. looks amazing btw, fit well. I just hope I didnt over do it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400525660212...84.m1497.l2649
They sell a to of other rads too, including f-bodys if anyone is interested. Time will tell if it holds up. Hell, the factory rad lasted 265,000 miles before the pastic ends began cracking.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400525660212...84.m1497.l2649
They sell a to of other rads too, including f-bodys if anyone is interested. Time will tell if it holds up. Hell, the factory rad lasted 265,000 miles before the pastic ends began cracking.
Staging Lane
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
You didn't mention what your current water temperature is nor what thermostat you're using so it's kinda hard to know "how cool is too cool" from your post. As for the winter driving in NY, I'd put in a 195F thermostat for that period of the year.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Previously my temp gauge was always rock steady at 210. Now it stays around 185, which makes sense given the thermostat is a 187. Right now I'm ok with it and it will heat up more with extended and/or "spirited" driving. But thats when its 85 degrees out. When winter comes and its below freezing for months I think that thermostat it going to be playing ping pong with itself - open, close - open, close - open, close. Would a 160 be a better idea so that once it opens it is more likely to stay open?
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No love on this one? Guess I'll go with a truck forum. I know a ton of you guys are also rocking Chevy pickup trucks, thought it might spark some interest. Especially if heavily modded and running hot is a concern. So if nothing else it's a great radiator, fits well too, just might be a bit overkill for a nearly stock 5.3.
Staging Lane
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Previously my temp gauge was always rock steady at 210. Now it stays around 185, which makes sense given the thermostat is a 187. Right now I'm ok with it and it will heat up more with extended and/or "spirited" driving. But thats when its 85 degrees out. When winter comes and its below freezing for months I think that thermostat it going to be playing ping pong with itself - open, close - open, close - open, close. Would a 160 be a better idea so that once it opens it is more likely to stay open?
I'd say that your 187F thermostat would be fine for the winter although personally I would use a 195F since most of my driving is stop 'n go. If it's cold enough where you live to ping-pong a 187F thermostat open and closed during the course of your normal driving, I wouldn't worry about it since that's what they're designed to do.
Hope this helps!
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Thanks, I'm just worried about it failing prematurely. I mean typically they open once while driving and then close sometime afterwords. Dont know how hard it is to wear one out.
Also agree with not going the 160 route, just a thought to combat the thermostat wear. If there is any.
Also agree with not going the 160 route, just a thought to combat the thermostat wear. If there is any.
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It is a big drop, I was surprised. Then again, like I said its got twice the capacity. I didnt buy it for that reason, I just bought it cuz it was a good deal on an ALL ALUMINUM radiator, non of that plastic crap.
Engine wont be operating below temp, it will always warm up to and stay at least 187 degrees, which is what the thermostat is. As soon as it gets colder than that it will close.
Its also got an external trans and oil cooler on it, so yeah, holy christ I think im good in the cooling department for a while. Now I need to go tow some heavy stuff uphill in Arizona to make use of it all.
Engine wont be operating below temp, it will always warm up to and stay at least 187 degrees, which is what the thermostat is. As soon as it gets colder than that it will close.
Its also got an external trans and oil cooler on it, so yeah, holy christ I think im good in the cooling department for a while. Now I need to go tow some heavy stuff uphill in Arizona to make use of it all.
I kno what you mean about operating temp, after I put 160 stat in my car never gets hot enough for the fans to turn on (below 170) I have a fan controller and turn them on just so they don't go bad lol...
No they can't harm it, BUT higher (to a point) oil temps help aid in the combustion process by giving a more efficient burn...if you do some googling you will find some good info from race engine guys
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Well winter is about here and it's been getting colder out. On a really chilly day the truck would barely produce heat because it was running so cool. On a half hour drive to work one morning it never got past 125 degrees. So I figured my thermostat must be stuck open. Well I ordered a new one (the last one was changed with the radiator, so it was new too) and installed it Sunday. The highest I have seen the truck get is 150 degrees going up a long uphill highway stretch. WTF is going on here? It should be warming up fairly quick - to 182 or 186, I forget the temp - and then maybe cooling a little as the stat opens. This is not happening. I repeat - WTF!?!?!? With the new stat I stayed right at 140 degrees on way home last night. Monitoring temp via Torque app BTW.
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I have a 160 thermostat in my 5.3 in my 1992 chevy truck and I live in ny. My heat works fine . You have something wrong that it won't get above 150. Mine stays around 175 driving and 182 in traffic. Do you have electric fans or a clutch fan? I have electric fan so it never really runs in the winter unless I sit at a light or traffic. Maybe with the new radiator and clutch fan it is keeping it to low. Could be your clutch fan isn't working correctly.
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Stock belt driven fan. It seems like the thermostat is just staying open, but it seems really unlikely that two new ones in a row would be stuck. I know the radiator has has a lot more cooling capacity than stock, but the radiator shouldn't be coming into play until the thermostat opens, and it never even reaches 18X degrees which is where it should be opening. Until the thermostat opens the fan shouldnt really be having any effect on coolant temps.
As you already stated the radiator shouldn't be a factor since no coolant should be flowing through it until the thermostat is open. So... are you 100% positive you have the correct thermostat for your engine, if so is it installed correctly..?
FYI, if it's a belt driven fan, then it has a fan clutch.
The only other issue I would consider is the fan clutch is some how damaged causing the fan to turn at 100% of the shaft speed, it should only turn at 50-60% with a Standard duty fan clutch and 80-90% with a Heavy duty, and Severe Duty fan clutch .
BTW, You can get a new fan clutch for $35-$85.
FYI, if it's a belt driven fan, then it has a fan clutch.
The only other issue I would consider is the fan clutch is some how damaged causing the fan to turn at 100% of the shaft speed, it should only turn at 50-60% with a Standard duty fan clutch and 80-90% with a Heavy duty, and Severe Duty fan clutch .
BTW, You can get a new fan clutch for $35-$85.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Nov 22, 2013 at 04:43 PM.
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I got the standard 18x degree stat both times and it is impossible to install incorrectly since the stat comes pre-installed in a new housing that can only be put on one way. First stat was a Delco, second is a Stant.
As far as the fan clutch goes, it too should not have anything to do with cooling until the stat opens, so I just don't know. Try another stat? Change clutch? Go electric? I dont think the fan is the issue but who knows.
As far as the fan clutch goes, it too should not have anything to do with cooling until the stat opens, so I just don't know. Try another stat? Change clutch? Go electric? I dont think the fan is the issue but who knows.
I would check the guage. Its not uncommon for factory gauges to be off. Its also not uncommon for a guage to be closer at one temp reading, and off at another part of the guage. Ive had it happen multiple times. Eric L
A puller fan is still going to blow air across the front of the engine and cooling the engine to some degree, and if it's turning at 100% of the shaft speed then more air is blowing across the engine.
Why not try removing the fan from the front of the water-pump pulley, then start it and let it warm up and go from there. IMO, that should at least give some idea of what to do next, and it won't cost you a dime(only time) to try it.
Why not try removing the fan from the front of the water-pump pulley, then start it and let it warm up and go from there. IMO, that should at least give some idea of what to do next, and it won't cost you a dime(only time) to try it.