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Mechanical oil pressure gauge setup

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Old 08-13-2013, 01:30 PM
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Default Mechanical oil pressure gauge setup

Months ago all my gauges were twitching during driving, and that seems to have mostly sorted itself out after fixing charging problems. The oil pressure would still bounce around a bit so I replaced the oil pressure sensor and it seemed to start behaving.

The oil pressure gauge is whack again, often starting at 60psi cold, then when I start driving it'll peg above 80psi on the dash gauge. I'll randomly look at the gauge and it can be between 40 and pegged, but it's never low.

I have another new oil PSU to throw at it, but I'd really like to confirm with a mechanical gauge. What is the easiest method (what combination of parts do I need) to connect a mechanical gauge while leaving the dash gauge connected? Preferably a method I can use to safely monitor the mechanical gauge while driving? It could be my imagination, but the car seems to hesitate more often at low throttle position when it's at that crazy PSI.

In addition, I'll sometimes get an oil level low indicator even though the oil is above the hash marks on the dipstick at cold start. It used to be that putting in 6qts (LS1 oilpan with LS3 block) it was near the top of the hash, but I don't know what causes it to show up higher on the stick now; I do have an aftermarket oil baffle but I wouldn't think it would raise it that much. I also have a new oil level sender and new oil pan sitting in storage.

After break-in, I used Redline 10W40 until it was no longer sold locally earlier this year, then I switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 after discussion on BITOG site.

Thanks for the help.
Old 08-13-2013, 02:22 PM
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Drill and tap the oil cover adapter for 1/8th NPT and connect your gauge. Then you can either install a gauge full time in the car (what I did) or plug it off.

Old 08-13-2013, 02:32 PM
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Kinda sounds like you have some sludge in your oil pan. That will make the oil sender start pegging out, and it will cause the little float on the level sensor to do weird things too. I would flush the motor out real good if I were you. But Here's what I used for the mechanical gauge so you can connect it directly to where your motor was designed to get the oil pressure reading. If it were me I would use an X prime to just circulate some engine flush through the motor for a while that way your not running your motor with diluted oil.

https://www.mdrtuning.com/ls-series-...r-adapter-2268
Old 08-13-2013, 05:17 PM
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Easiest way I have found is to get an autometer metric adapter for the oil pressure sensor hole and then just screw in a normal 1/8 npt oil pressure gauge
Old 08-13-2013, 05:21 PM
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I was hoping to use both gauges simultaneously, just until I'm sure the dash gauge is accurate again. Why would I have sludge?

Some of the adapters in this thread looked promising although I can't find them online.
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654515
Old 08-13-2013, 10:25 PM
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2268

This is the one I use...just compare the mechanic gauge at idle to your stock gauge idle reading...

As far as sludge, that comes from not changing oil frequently enough...you can usually tell if you pull a valve cover and see if bunch of nasty gunk...if its there it's everywhere
Old 08-14-2013, 08:38 AM
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The factory gauges in these cars are pretty much worthless. Buy some real aftermarket gauges and be done fooling with those factory gauges. There are very good aftermarket gauges that are electric. Accurate gauges do not have to be mechanical gauges.



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