7Enigma

BUMP! Please help with my last question since I'm sure there are going to be some good deals this labor day weekend.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

If you're keeping AIR/EGR then you can't use the Texas Speed headers. They don't have the provisions.

You'd want Pacesetters or eBay stainless if doing it on the cheap. The TSP catted Y bolts to them no problem. If you're stock internals you'll have no issue passing smog.

RezinTexas

I always recommend the ARP header studs for this swap, very nice kit.

7Enigma

Thanks for the very helpful reply! I didn't realize the Texas Speed Headers did not come with AIR/EGR. I'd prefer to keep them (especially if this is the difference between likely passing/failing an emissions test), so are there any other moderately priced other than the Pacesetter (I haven't looked into the eBay stainless, do you have a link?).

Ideally I'd like to keep the 1 7/8" if possible and the pacesetters only come in 1 3/4" (unless you think mainly stock will see no benefit to the increased diameter). I'll have to update my sig with all of my modifications but most are either intake/exhaust or suspension mods, nothing internal.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I'm not trying to dictate this conversation, or steer you any certain way. There's a lot of guys on here that know A LOT, and helped me along the way as well. Having said that:

Headers period will be better for you. Of course the 7/8" primaries will gain more, as has been proven even on a stock application, but it's negligible. Do you HAVE to keep emissions? I'd ditch it if I could, or move to a place I can

Pacesetter is probably your best bet. Get them from whomever. TSP will price match though, and Aaron and Matt are very helpful, albeit busy. I just threw eBay out as an idea. Yeah they're stainless, but they don't impress me. Again, just *my* opinion.

I believe Hooker makes an 1 7/8" primary, but again you're at 600 bucks or so. Speed Engineering, a sponsor here, sells 1 3/4" stainless under 300, but the O2 sensors are on the outside of the collector instead of the inside. They have a revision coming though. Not sure how soon.

Stay in the classifieds as well. You wouldn't believe the deals that can be found with cash in hand. I say that bc the good deals go FAST.

7Enigma

Thanks again for the great reply. Yes I'm in PA and need emissions as much as I dislike them.

I also was starting to think that for my personal application the 1 7/8th while awesome are probably not really needed since I don't have any future plans to really up the HP. So I think I'll go with the Pacesetter headers and either the TSP or the Pacesetter Y with high-flow cats. Seems TSP Y has better reviews but I need to see if they are in stock (currently out of stock on TSP's site for the cat'd version) and the price difference.

What are your opinions on reusing the stock header gasket, and on reusing the header bolts? Also with this being a 2000, do you recommend getting new O2's for the front or is it safe to reuse 13 yr old sensors?

Thanks again.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

I always reuse the stock manifold bolts, but add a 5/16 or 8mm lock washer as the header flange is normally thinner than the stock manifolds. This prevents the bolts from bottoming out in the cylinder head.

You can reuse the O2 sensors if there weren't any O2 codes, but with LT headers, you will most likely get slow switching or insufficient activity codes and will need to delete them in your tune. And high flow cats will most likely set off P0420/P0430 codes.

And you will still need to fix your cold start issue.

Russ Kemp

7Enigma

Thanks Russ, but now I'm even more confused. I like that I can reuse the bolts, and will definitely pick up some lock washers. I am throwing P0420/1 codes right now. I'm assuming they are due to the cats but it sounds like it could also be the O2 sensors (or both). Is there anyway to diagnose one or the other without going through the expense of replacing one and seeing if the code comes back? And the slow switching/insufficient activity codes are something that if deleted with a tune will not have me fail inspection/emissions? I'm unfamiliar with this code and don't know if removing them with a tune is enough to pass inspection.

Finally the coldstart issue. I still believe it is due to my existing condition (either clogged cat or bad O2). I know you've said before you don't believe that would cause it but I can't see why it couldn't be the reason. To make things more confusing it has not appeared in the last couple weeks (but we've also not been in the 90's here in PA for the last month). I switched to regular 87 octane hoping that the quicker burn of the fuel would maybe alleviate the issue (and also concerned that possibly the premium 91/93 I normally use from our local BP is not as new as the much more frequently purchased 87 which the majority of people run).

Today was the day I was all set to purchase my parts, but now I'm again wondering if LT headers are an option for someone like me that needs to pass inspection/emmisions without a super exotic tune.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Ok, if you just have P0420 & P0430 with NO OTHER codes, then the cat efficiency is below threshold, so the cats need to be replaced. This has nothing to do with restricted/plugged cats. If your cats were restricted enough to cause a hard cold start, the car would have no power at all.

Deleting the slow switching/insufficient activity codes can't be detected during an emission test. And note that these codes are for the front O2's. And you will also need to delete the P0420/P0430 cat codes with the high flows, and should also delete the rear O2 codes.

Russ Kemp

7Enigma

Well I don't know about no power, but it is pretty bad at anything but really low rpm. Yup, that's it, just the low efficiency codes (I have an OBD2 scanner and have cleared them multiple times and the only thing that comes up is those). So should I replace the front O2's? My worry has been that they may have an issue that is fouling the cats but that's just a worry. And to help this decision how easy is it to remove O2's that are original from 2000 in 2013? Would they be so rusted that it isn't even possible to reuse?

You had mentioned to reuse the bolts, what are you thoughts on the header gaskets? I've read people who reuse the original metal gaskets, and some that recommend the $30-40 for a new set of GM metal gaskets. I'd prefer to reuse but do not like the idea of having a leak or tearing a gasket during disassembly.

Thanks again everyone, I think I'm about 90% of the way to making a purchase decision.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Then I would do check the exhaust back pressure. Also had a lot of bad Mafs causing very lean AFR's, thus low power. And check the fuel pressure & fuel filter. You really need to scan the fuel trims & front O2's while the car is down on power.

Replacing the front O2's would be easier then having to heat the manifolds to remove them. But if they weren't setting codes, then they didn't cause the cats to fail, as cats do fail after 13 years.

And use new gaskets, why chance having an exhaust leak over $40.00?

Russ Kemp

7Enigma

OK so reuse the stock header bolts, buy new O2's (front) and header gaskets.
Replace the fuel filter while I'm down there (I HATE this thing with a passion). Motor mounts, transmission mount sounds like a good idea but the $$$$ are starting to add up quickly. New spark plugs since it will take 10min with the headers off (and I can check them to see if I can get a better idea how I was running lean/rich/etc.). Pacesetter LT's and either PS or Texas speed Y-pipe. Anything else I'm missing? O2 extensions?

And for tuning I've heard the name Frost come up a couple of times. The mail-order tuning sounds like the way to go for me but want to get people's thoughts on whether this is good enough to pass emissions?

http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/products_m03.htm

Thanks.

7Enigma

anyone?

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I didn't have emissions to deal with, but I used Frost when I was full bolt-ons. Great service, price, and turn around. Made me a happy camper.

7Enigma

Another quick 3 questions:

-Does anyone have the part number for replacement oxygen sensors?

-Anyone have recommendations on replacement motor and tranny mounts? This is my daily driver so nothing that could really increase cabin noise if possible but I'd rather not just buy the first thing I find if you have a better recommendation.

-Does deleting EGR and AIR (or just EGR and leaving AIR) make sense? I'm just worried about emissions since I'll be most likely doing the mail-order FROST tune and not getting it professionally done on a dyno with wide-band O2 tuning. I hate the thought of exhaust gas and oil going back into the intake, but don't want to risk it if it will make it less likely that I can pass emissions testing.

Thanks again.

RockinWs6

Gonna throw you a bone dood............cat codes AINT gonna make it start hard.......bad 02's aint gonna make it start hard.......... you need to find a good mechanic.

7Enigma

Guys I need help. I was guilty of doing nothing as for some reason my car was starting fine the last month or so. Well yesterday it started difficultly and today it pretty much didn't start at all (how it eventually did before killing the battery I'll never know). I need some help ASAP to figure out the problem. What things can I check/change that could be a cause of a car that is difficult to start but once starts, drives fine as long as I don't get on the gas too heavy? It's been quite cold (and dry) the last 2 days so is that a fuel starvation thing?

I know my cats are bad and likely causing some issues, but if you could list a couple things I can cheap and easily change out I'll do that first.

Thanks.

7Enigma

Just saw this thread (see below) and it matches exactly with my issue. I think I've got 2 non-related issues that were making diagnosis difficult. One my cats are shot, and that's killing my acceleration issue. Two, this ignition relay is screwing around with my odd starting issues that seem to come and go with the weather randomly. I'm going to give this a shot and hope for the best.

And here I was on my way after work to take the car into a shop for a likely pricey repair bill....

For anyone else interested or having similar issues with the hard-start:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=880078

LopeyZ

iTrader: (2)

If the motor is cranking over alright then pull a spark plug wire and check for spark. If you see spark then check for fuel. When you turn the key to the "ON" position, the fuel pump should prime the fuel system so if you don't hear the the pump... you need a new one. Could also be weak fuel pressure so the pump may run but not supply adequate pressure... somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 PSI. Rent or buy a gauge and check the pressure.

7Enigma

Thanks for the reply but I think the answer is the relay as in the link I supplied. The fact this happens randomly (or at least sporadically) lends me to believe its an electrical gremlin and not something mechanical. I will definitely explore those options if this doesn't fix the issue. Tomorrow morning is supposed to be identical to today's weather so if it fires right up I'll be very confident it is the cause.

Thanks again though!