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Motor won't start?

Old 05-02-2004, 10:12 PM
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Angry Motor won't start?

Ok here what and where I'm at. I have a 2000 Camaro SS with the LS1 and ls1 intake. I did a cam swap, headers, and deleted the A.I.R, EGR system stuff. I got everything put back together. New oil pump, rods, springs, 237/242 .595/.595 @112lsa used cam, double roller TC etc. to do the swap. We finished and started the car ran fine for about 5-7 seconds then I shut it off.(oil pressure didn't rise yet) I let it sit for 5 sec. then went to start it up again and all I got was a backfire.The car only turns over and backfires every now and then. Now remember I took off all the EGR and air stuff and put a plate over the egr hole in the intake(no seal) My question is this: I have a good reason to believe that the plate is causing the backfires but was wondering if anyone had any experience(sp?) like this and what was the cause or any ideas as to what to look for after I seal up the egr hole?
TIA
Brandon
Old 05-03-2004, 12:59 AM
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TTT somebody please? Any help is good help!!!
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Old 05-03-2004, 01:05 AM
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if the plate isnt sealed... you have a massive intake leak possibly that is making your car run very lean and that is why it is backfiring, becareful with that oil pressure... make sure it goes up... you can pull the inj fuses and crank the starter to try to get some oil circulated before start up again... try checkin your plugs see if they fouled out already...
Old 05-03-2004, 07:04 AM
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The oil pressure should come up rather quickly now that I've been cranking the motor over. I will probably use an expandable freeze plug until I get a ls6 intake. Thanks for the insight and if anyone esle has something to add feel free please.
Brandon
Old 05-03-2004, 09:11 AM
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Ok here's an update: I put a expandable freeze plug in the egr port in the intake mani. reconnected the batt. and still just back fires. so I'm going to pull the valve covers back off and re-check all the rods, springs etc. Any ideas are welcome as I need to get this thing running today. So please if anyone has some ideas for me to try I'm open minded at this point.
Thanks
Brandon
Old 05-03-2004, 11:59 AM
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Just cranks and pops, does it pop in a sequence?

Sure you have the entire injector and coil harnesses plugged in? Hard to start if only 1/2 is plugged in.
Old 05-03-2004, 12:11 PM
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Thats alot of camshaft for a stock bottom end[no valve reliefs] my experience has shown that cams with low 230's of duration is about all you can fit without cutting pistons. Do a leakdown test to see if you did any damage.
Old 05-03-2004, 12:32 PM
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Cam is smaller than the T-rex and that fits on stock heads. I think John is on the right path. Check to make sure everything is plugged in, injectors, coils, plug wires. Is your throttle blade drilled at all? I dont know if that cam would idle without enlarging the throttle blade hole\programming. I dont think it would cause the car to backfire though.
Old 05-03-2004, 01:05 PM
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Sounds to me like you're out of time. A broken or slipped timing chain possibly.

If you ran it for 5 sec and saw no oil pressure, you have a problem there as well.
Old 05-03-2004, 01:23 PM
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I agree with denz sounds like it is out of time,hopefully you didn't tear anything up.If it were me i'd pull the heads and make sure you didn't tear up any pistons,valves or anything else.
Old 05-03-2004, 01:43 PM
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I hope you put a new O-ring in when you put the new oil pump in! If you didn't you will have to pull everything off the front and replace it! That happened to me, just the other day.

It might be a good idea to pull your pulley and timing cover off anyway to double check everything, including the timing marks. If they are off one tooth you could bend the valves with that big of a cam
Old 05-03-2004, 02:07 PM
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Ok here's where I'm at now, I did a compression check(2 actually had some 130psi) the rest were at 0 So I then pulled the rocker arms off and did a leak down and found a bent intake valve for that cylinder. So I'm pulling the heads off to replace the valves. Also gonna pull the front cover off to double check that the dots are lined up. I'm still at a loss as to why my valves bent but maybe that answer will come up when I pull the TC cover off and check the dots again. Any other ideas are still welcome as I'm trying to fiqure this all out so I can fix it.
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Old 05-03-2004, 02:16 PM
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#1 As stated in several other threads--Do not install dot-to-dot. Use a degree wheel/kit and degree the camshaft. This could have been easily avoided.
Old 05-03-2004, 02:23 PM
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I'm pretty sure that cam is too big to run without flycutting... especially if it has 4* or so of advance ground into it.
Old 05-03-2004, 08:21 PM
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Ok the heads are off the car now I'll have pics up later of the bent valves and the marks on the pistons(Thanks Jay ) So here are some questions for anyone to answer, wether right or wrong ideas spark better ideas. 1) with this cam having 4* of timing built into the cam is there a way to adjust the settings with a degree wheel/kit so this cam will work with out fly-cutting? 2) If not then how hard is it to fly-cut or would it be cheaper to just buy a new cam that is smaller? 3) Everyone keeps saying that this cam is to big for the stock heads but none elaborate on why. My questions is the T-Rex cam is much bigger 242/248 .608/.612 on 110 compared to a 237/242 .595/.595 112 how is my cam to big but the T-Rex not? Or why fly-cut with mine when it's not req. for the T-Rex. I'm just looking for help guys so please any answers are better than none.
Thanks in advance sorry if this post sounds mean or negative but I'm looking for answers to get my car back on the road as it is my only means of transportation.
Brandon
Old 05-03-2004, 09:34 PM
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If you inadvertantly got the cam timing off even by one tooth, this can happen. Sometimes, the dots look correct but end up not being so (ask me how I know). I just did a head swap last weekend and found that all of my pistons have shallow eyebrows on them as a result of the timing being off one tooth before we got the dots realigned. Sometimes, this happens. Once you fire it, if the timing's off all of the valves that are gonna bend will...in about 5 seconds or less. Once that happens, a clean seal and combustion is out of the question.
Old 05-03-2004, 09:48 PM
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Good points on that one but I figured that out just like you did took about 5 seconds on sunday Ok so now my heads are off the car and I need at least new valves to be put in. Knowing the cam I have 237/242 .595/.595 112 what set of stg 2 heads would work with this cam and what mods would have to be done to the pistons(flycutting?) and is that the only thing? and where can I find a set of stg 2's without the springs,retainers and seats(already have some)? I'm thinking either the Absolute s2 5.3 or the s2 ls6's

Last edited by silverbullet00; 05-03-2004 at 09:58 PM.
Old 05-03-2004, 10:41 PM
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Here are the pics of my findings

Old pushrods

One head

Close up

Another

Passanger side pistons

And lastly the bent valves
Old 05-03-2004, 10:55 PM
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damn dude that sucks
Old 05-03-2004, 11:06 PM
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damn, well at least you figured it out.

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