Post a picture of the dyno graph if you can? I would like to see what the power curve looks like.

 

I will eventually end up doing this when I am flush again with the Dollars, Cheers.

I will see if I can get a copy of the dyno read out today, do you have any thoughts on what it might be.
It has obviously been a multitude of things all along, seems I have fixed 2 of them being rockers & springs.

 

Well you're close to that cam's max range as per advertising claims. Why not set a slightly lower rpm limiter say 6500 on it for now and just enjoy the car.

These problems can go on forever and hence why I'm a little hesitant to proceed. I've copped a lot of this kind of thing in the past too...

 

[QUOTE=Melba LS1;17773599]Well you're close to that cam's max range as per advertising claims. Why not set a slightly lower rpm limiter say 6500 on it for now and just enjoy the car.

That is exactly what I have done.

BUT, I still need to know why it's still happening.

I am now 'broke'. Labor cost was $3750. over all it's cost me $6300

Car sure pulls hard now.

First Dyno graph is when the car first went in for work, Take no notice of the power figure, just the graph. 222/222 cam

Second Graph is current with Tick SNS stg 3

 

Is that the cost of just the cam upgrade all inclusive or heads too ? So you picked up about 40 rwkw and 38 TQ ? That's a hell of a lot for just a cam upgrade you'd have to be happy with that. Seriously wouldn't be worrying too much more just hoping it all stays put and enjoys a happy long problem free life

 

Heads were current, have been on there since 06

Not just the cam was changed out.

I replaced my Powerbond 25%ud pulley with a standard ATI
Swapped my inmotion twin timing chain set with a Cloyes Hex a Just & Extreme duty C5R chain,

Fitted a Trickflow timing chain damper bracket along with a LS2 damper.
Swapped Harlan Sharp rockers back to my standard rockers with Trunnion upgrade.

Fitted BTR Platinum 660 springs
Fitted LS2 lifter trays

Heads came off as cam had a lobe worn, which we believe had happened with previous Comp lifters as the current LS7 Caddi lifters hadn't been in there long '1000km' & seemed to check out ok.

Fitted a new intank Walbra fuel pump

A lot of time taken up trying to sort this thing out.

I wanted to sort out all the bad harmonics this engine was having, after breaking a dual Rollmaster a couple of years ago & hopefully pick up some added HP through a better running engine.

 

So 248/441 were the old numbers and the new numbers are 286/478?

Are you referring to where the power trails off after 6500? That just looks like where he was lifting his foot off the gas at the end of the run to me?

If it were out of injector or pump I'd imagine the AFR would go lean at that RPM?

Doesn't look like it's going lean to me? In fact it looks very very rich?

 

Hi Martin,

248/441 old cam- new cam 288/! what ever this is

As the run gets to 6500 it isn't his foot lifting, it is still a valve train issue.

I run 42lb Lucas Delphy inj. Duty cycle was around 'I think' 75/78%
A new Walbro intank fuel pump was installed also.

I showed my old tuner this graph, he has worked on & has known my car since its inception in 2002, with all its different configurations.

He believes it could be the heavy stainless valves without me saying anything to him about that maybe LS3 valves would be better.

He kept it a bit richer up high as I run a 10% Bio ethanol-fuel from Gull, 98/100 octane. He said the engines need to be a bit richer up high, something to do with the Gull Bioethanol-fuel. he would prefer me to run our BP 98.

Our fuel octane is different than the US

 

Could it be the bio-fuel causing the problem ? The recommended fuel here is BP98 with E85 gaining popularity.
It sounds like you've been through the trenches with the LS1 which is often the case when modding. I've been there too many times your certainly not alone.
Could you please explain the difference between your two cams in drivability, idle and acceleration ? As my car is a daily driver, though it certainly doesn't do much driving at the moment. I was thinking of grinds close to the 222 you had or even smaller as being ideal for a family car, opinion ?

 

No it's not the fuel as they had to put more fuel in & put in 30lts of BP98.

This cam is not really suitable for a daily, check with Martin above you, he's the man at Tick performance & his grind I'm using.
He will sort the best cam for your use without a doubt.

My 222 cam was a NZ Kelford cam but I also had/have a different setup than you. It was an ok cam, I had come from a TSP 231/237 cam so I never got that hard pull I had been used to, this Tick SNS stg 3 has given it back to me but with a lot more torque feeling.

They need to re-sort my cutoff on the injectors as they are turning off & on at 2000rpm causing violent drive train shaking, hopefully get it sorted end of next week, not a big issue.
He did no road testing as I had taken the race splitter off & it had the number plate on it. It didn't cross my mind at the time.

 

Thanks for the info, what are you using for your tuning interface, HP TUNERS, EFI live, LS1 edit or something else ? Maybe your tables are not setup 100%, something is certainly not right with your tune/fuel supply imo. Well lucky for you its your project car, imagine this was your daily driver

 

I run a NZ Link G2 ecu. completely tuneable as is.

At the power increase I doubt there's much wrong with the tune.

Nothing wrong with tune or fuel supply.

Just now need tuner to turn injectors of at a lower rpm

It's not my project car... It's my weekend car, come display/show/circuit sprint race car

 

Martin I spoke again with the tuner.
He did indeed lift off as he could hear & see what was happening & didn't wish to power through what was an obvious valve train issue.

He is unsure himself as to the cause, my old tuner as I stated believes it could be the heavy stainless valves.

The current tuner said he would welcome conversation with you, NZ is a long way behind the USA in that they mostly fit kits etc.

Come a hybrid like mine & all hell breaks loose lol. What ever you do don't say I said that.. it's just my 02

If you would like to chat with him, maybe e-mail mailto:sales@protune.co.nz

Wayne is the tuner, his off sider Dean is in the office

Who knows, you may be able to have a NZ agent for your cams etc....hey do I get a finders fee lol

mmmm second thoughts, i don't want heaps of Kiwi cars running cars quicker than mine haha!

 

I honestly do not see a valve train issue in your latest graph that made 288.

As of a matter of fact the power curve looks perfect to me? It peaks at 6200-6300rpm right where it should, flattens out and carries that beautiful SNS Stage 3 power() to 6600-6700rpm where he lifts his foot off the gas. At least that's what I am taking from your dyno graph.

I understand about the fuel as well. If it makes the most power at that AFR, leave it there. I also feel that if that lean bump around 4900-5000rpm was gone and the AFR curve stayed flat there that your torque curve wouldn't dip down after it peaks at 4700rpm. That it would stay flat and not lose the torque it is right there from going a bit lean. Once it richens back up the power comes back up and gains it back.

I would be glad to talk to him though.

 

Thanks Martin,

Not sure if he will do anything more with the tuning without payment, & I'm broke now so it will have to stay like this a while.
He is going to sort out the injectors the way he has them at 2000rpm switching off on deceleration, it's so unpleasant to drive.

How do you work out the HP figures in relation to my KW readings & the type of Dyno it's done on, ie my 288=?

Yes, send him a message as he has way better knowledge about what he was doing with the car, it's something you both understand.

Just mention Waynes VN Commodore
sales@protune.co.nz

 

Here's another Dyno run from 2011 when the 222/222 cam was installed.

This tuner is whom I normally use, his dyno reads way different & the torque figure 'very confusing' as a tuner you would understand why it reads like that.

I will at some stage get my car back on his dyno to get a power run comparison from this graph & my now Tick cam.

This dyno read exactly the same as another one I had my car on 3weeks later in another part of the country.

 

I have no idea how to calculate KW readings into RWHP readings.

I haven't had a chance to get with your tuner yet, but hopefully I can send him a message on Monday.

 

Btw, you're at around 386rwhp given that dyno.

1 KW = 1.34 HP.

 

Ok, I do know just by the feel of the car it is way more than that. This dyno reads way low.
If you look at my dyno just above Martins last comment you will see the car dynoed 304.3kw = 408rwhp with the 222 cam, I will at some stage soon get it on the same dyno & see the difference.
Given that it increased 40rwkw on the low Dyno with the SNS Stg 3, the 222 dyno figures 304.3rwkw + 40kw tick cam =343.3rwkw= 461.71rwhp, which is what the car feels like now.

I found a unit converter on line lol

 

IDLE CLIP, through a single 3.5"

Car feels strong as again, had the tuner alter the injector turn off to a higher RPM & he did something else as well so car runs real good in traffic now. There's still the cam bucking down very low but I expect that & just depress the clutch.

Thanks again Martin, I'm so far loving this cam. Just need to get it on my usual Dyno & then back on the Race track.

And the tow hitch!!! It is a safe guard to traffic bumping into the back of the car & also acts as tow point if I end up in a sand trap on track.