Biggest cam with stock stall?
There's literally no reason to build your car in the wrong order. People do the stall first for a reason.
As for going with a budget stall, you have to be careful. People usually go with Yank, Circle D, etc, becuase they're the most popular. But they also usually end up buying a billet front cover when it's not neccesary unless you lock the converter at WOT, which you wont.
I personally went with a PTC converter, I've heard alot of good things about them. I like it, great quality and performance, and it was about 550 or so for the converter and cooler shipped to my door. Circle D also has a non billet converter.
As for going with a budget stall, you have to be careful. People usually go with Yank, Circle D, etc, becuase they're the most popular. But they also usually end up buying a billet front cover when it's not neccesary unless you lock the converter at WOT, which you wont.
I personally went with a PTC converter, I've heard alot of good things about them. I like it, great quality and performance, and it was about 550 or so for the converter and cooler shipped to my door. Circle D also has a non billet converter.
the part I highlighted in red... is a very wrong assumption...the billet front cover is not for Locking the convert at WOT...
also, once you start pushing past what a converter was made for, you will need that billet cover....
its better to buy it now than to have to replace the thing(and anything else in the transmission that gets hurt by it).
once you start getting past 400 rwhp(which isnt hard) you start pushing the limits of a converter that doesnt have a billet front cover...some can handle it, some cant...its luck of the draw whether you see the effects of it or not.
and, you will get a more reliable stall speed from a billet front cover as well(less flex = more accurate up to a higher amount of power.
people bitch when they get a converter that doesnt match the stall speed they ordered...its because they ordered the wrong converter for their setup.
and they say power changes that stall speed.....I call BS....
I bought a Yank PY3600...which is their pro level converter...
I asked for it to have a 5000 stall speed..so dave built it to be a 5000 stall....
I've run it on motor, and with a 500 shot of nitrous......it stalls to 5000 every time no matter what I put into it
so dont buy a cheap converter..... buy a built one to start with and you wnt have any issues
also, locking the converter at WOT, is only something you should do IF YOUR CONVERTER WAS BUILT TO BE LOCKED AT WOT.
Most converters are not built to do that...you will destroy the clutches in them pretty much the first time you lock it up at WOT if its not specially built to do so.
also, if locking the converter nets you a way faster ET... then you have the wrong converter to begin with, and you have too much converter slip at the top end and need a better converter anyways (or a different trans/rear combo).
buy it right the first time.... buy a converter built to do more than you think you plan on and you will never have to worry about it.
p.s.......
a 5000 converter on a stock cam is one mean SOB.....and yes... a stock cam LOVES a big stall.....
also, dont be afraid of as big stall on the street...when its nice out, and the sun is shining... I drive my "racecar" on the street to go get meals and run errands...my 5000 stall is not an issue on the street.
There is no cam worth doing in an ls1 that will work properly with a stock stall, and this is coming from someone who tried it. Not only will the car be faster stall only than cam only but if you do the cam the car will push through the brakes at stops and burn up brake pads (when it isn't dying coming to a stop from being lugged down)
I ran a cam almost exactly the same size as what you mention with a stock stall and it was miserable to drive and slow as ****...could barely even power brake it to burnout.
Either get the stall first or save your money and do it all at once
I ran a cam almost exactly the same size as what you mention with a stock stall and it was miserable to drive and slow as ****...could barely even power brake it to burnout.
Either get the stall first or save your money and do it all at once
if you had issues like that, you didnt have a proper tune on it....
I can make any cam drive and act like stock. manual or automatic....
street manners are not based on the cam, its based on the tune.
A stock stall is just too tight. A tune isn't going to make up for how poorly a stock converter car with a lower mid size aftermarket cam will perform. (but the car was tuned)
The cam wanted a higher than stock idle, which was enough to start putting load on the converter and make braking more difficult unless the car was put in neutral.
I have serious doubt you line up a cammed/stock stall car to a bolt on stalled car that any tune in the world is going to put the cammed car at the line first (traction being a given). But even if it happened, I wouldn't want to drive it home.
The cam wanted a higher than stock idle, which was enough to start putting load on the converter and make braking more difficult unless the car was put in neutral.
I have serious doubt you line up a cammed/stock stall car to a bolt on stalled car that any tune in the world is going to put the cammed car at the line first (traction being a given). But even if it happened, I wouldn't want to drive it home.
Stop trying to actually understand how things work that is generally not appreciated.
Let's just look at this real basic like. Why does a car with a 3000+ stall creep at idle and drive well below that rpm? Because at low throttle the torque input to the converter is so low the "stall" speed is low. As you put your foot in the throttle the torque input goes up.........................................
Sure that is oversimplified but I think it makes the point.
Let's just look at this real basic like. Why does a car with a 3000+ stall creep at idle and drive well below that rpm? Because at low throttle the torque input to the converter is so low the "stall" speed is low. As you put your foot in the throttle the torque input goes up.........................................
Sure that is oversimplified but I think it makes the point.
Btw, when I talked to Chris @ CircleD (who makes their own billet front covers FWIW) the billet front cover does not make it good for WOT Lock-up. That requires a multi-disc converter.
