Hi guys.

I am undertaking my first engine swap and I am a novice so please bear with me. I have a 1950 Chevy truck that I want to put an LS into. I came across a good deal on a 180,000 mile 5.3 out of a 2000 Silverado that was supposedly side swiped. When I got the motor it was already out and waiting for me. At $300 with everything attached (harness and PCM included) I figured it was worth the risk. My project is a long way for having the motor dropped I but I want to start cleaning and painting the engine in anticipation of the day it goes in. My fear is that I'll drop it in all pretty only to find out its junk.

If its on an engine stand with a starter, heads, intake, and accessories what can I do to figure out if my heads and block are good to go? I thought maybe a compression test but that's all I could think of.

What kind of numbers should I hope to see on the compression test?

What else would you suggest I try?

If the motor checks out, I want to replace all the gaskets and seals for piece of mind but I'd rather not spend that time an money on a bad motor.

Oh and I know everyone likes pictures so below is a picture of the truck the motor is going into. Like I said, its a ways from having the new motor.

Thanks
Greg



Good bye to this

 

Wow. 100 views and no one has even one suggestion of something I could look for on my engine to help me figure out if its bad or not.

 

Just my opinion but I would pull valve covers and make sure everything is kosher while rotating the engine.

Compression and leakdown would also be worth while.

I'd borescope the cylinders too while you are at it.

I'm a tech by trade, so I have these tools already. I'm not sure if you have a leakdown tester, borescope, ect at your disposal, but it may be worth the effort.

I'm more of the "better safe than sorry" mindset, so I'd replace the usual things while its out. Plugs, leads, waterpump, t-stat...

 

Thank you. I don't think I have access to a leak down tester but I do have a bore scope. Once I figure the motor to be good I plan to replace all those things you mentioned. Do you know what kind of numbers I should want to see during the compression test? I know they should be close for all cylinders but I'm not sure what the readings should be.

Thanks for your ideas. I will try those.

 

you can also remove the oil pan and check for sludge or metal flakes.

 

A few of these things have been covered and I'm glad to see some good posts in this thread.

First I would to a compression test, dry and wet.

Then pull the pan, valve covers, etc off.

I can't count how many threads I have read on here when people buy junkyard motors and take the heads off then ask what condition the motor is in.