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Metal flakes in oil pan, low oil pressure. Input needed.

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Old 11-10-2013, 05:05 AM
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Oil pump is tight from the bearings pieces going through it. There is really no way to know what happened unless you measured everything and checked everything properly. The fact is If everything was properly done it wouldn't have failed. I'd have crank checked and the line bore on the block checked.
Old 11-10-2013, 06:01 AM
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I am guessing this was a iron motor what were the rod and main clearances.

Tim
Old 11-10-2013, 09:31 AM
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I haven't talked to the engine builder yet, ill be going over tomorrow. To see what he has to say. Regardless I will need it fixed. Question is how he will go about it. I havent checked any of the clearences And I could measure everything. But just don't have the time, and am missing a few tools to do it. Once I have my shop organized I will start building my own engines. Yes it's a iron 370, forged rods and pistons, stock crank.

Funny thing is I've built mud pumps for drilling rigs for about 7yrs which is abouth the same thing as a engine. You have 2 main bearings that you use crush gauge, toque it down to spec, untorque check crush gauge, but instead of boring you use shims, has 3 rods, 3 cross heads (pistons) that also have to be shimmed. So
Old 11-10-2013, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Pollo432
I haven't talked to the engine builder yet, ill be going over tomorrow. To see what he has to say. Regardless I will need it fixed. Question is how he will go about it. I havent checked any of the clearences And I could measure everything. But just don't have the time, and am missing a few tools to do it. Once I have my shop organized I will start building my own engines. Yes it's a iron 370, forged rods and pistons, stock crank.

Funny thing is I've built mud pumps for drilling rigs for about 7yrs which is abouth the same thing as a engine. You have 2 main bearings that you use crush gauge, toque it down to spec, untorque check crush gauge, but instead of boring you use shims, has 3 rods, 3 cross heads (pistons) that also have to be shimmed. So
Just curious what was the break in procedure?
Old 11-10-2013, 11:11 PM
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Yea outer gear has rubbed on case and cover. For break in I let engine reach operating temp, then changed oil. Never drove it hard. Racked up about 300mi was never really happy about oil pressure. Seemed to be low from the start.
Old 11-11-2013, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Bishop
Cam bearings?
Ive had this happen twice i would start w the cam bearngs myself. And all bearings are trash now
Old 11-11-2013, 08:17 AM
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Yeah I'm swapping ALL bearings, pump, lifters and crank. Did you find the issue or some type of failure?
Old 11-11-2013, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Pollo432
Yeah I'm swapping ALL bearings, pump, lifters and crank. Did you find the issue or some type of failure?
Are you using the same engine guy? Is he taking any responsibility for it?
Old 11-11-2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Pollo432
Yeah I'm swapping ALL bearings, pump, lifters and crank. Did you find the issue or some type of failure?
yes I did, the Comp Cam was never heat treated correctly and despite having new oil pump and the cam being new it locked up on my bearings twice. after the first one I had a machine shop check the journal sizing and straightness and it checked fine. without lifters etc it spun free as could be when in the block cold
Old 11-11-2013, 11:18 PM
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Yes took it to the same guy, pretty much told me it was my fault. Said I had to crank engine without letting it start to build oil pressure. Starting the engine under "load" cause the damage.
Old 11-11-2013, 11:23 PM
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You said you started it and brought it to operating temps, that's no load at all.

And if it had assembly lube being a new engine it should of survived the first start without a problem.
Old 11-12-2013, 07:52 AM
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That's what I thought. Once he repeated himself like twice I thought. Eh this guy is just trying to cover his *** so he doesn't have to pay for it.
Old 11-19-2013, 10:34 AM
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New engine startup/priming:

1- Disable fuel pump
2- Pull all spark plugs
3- Crank motor until oil pressure is shown on gauge

It's pretty easy. Also make sure the oil pump is filled with oil/assembly lube on assembly.
Old 11-24-2013, 12:24 AM
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Ill remember that for the next time I put the engine back in. Hopefully ill have the engine back before Christmas.
Old 11-24-2013, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bozzhawg
The oil pump is probaby tight because the outer gear has rubbed up against the pump housing or cover. Usually the bearing material is pretty soft, I doubt if he has chunks of bearing material in the pump. The oil filter and pick up screen would have caught that.

It does not take long for **** to go south real quick so maybe you had an intermittent oil supply issue. The LS oiling system is one of GM's downfalls when they designed these blocks.
The bearing material has to GO THROUGH THE PUMP before its gets to the oil filter....are you kidding me? That pump is trashed from thrash going through it.
Old 11-24-2013, 10:26 AM
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Damn man that sux , you didn't prime engine before you started it,,?



Quick Reply: Metal flakes in oil pan, low oil pressure. Input needed.



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