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4.8 Mustang Build

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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 09:45 AM
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Default 4.8 Mustang Build

Hey guys- new to the group but I have been stalking for about a year or so- finally made the plunge and bought a 4.8- I was in the market for a 5.3/4.8 for a while- and found a very clean complete 4.8 for $300.
Plan is to have a 700-800whp Turbo 4.8 in my new edge Mustang. Doing the teardown now and everything looks really good. Replacing main studs with ARP- ARP rod bolts as well- putting the clevite bearings in as well. Not boring it but going to get it dunked and honed- what size rings should I slap in there? Ive read the popular article from Hot Rod magazine and they do the same- but put a 0.5" bigger top ring in- not sure if this will be needed in my application or not?
Motor has stock 862 heads- going to send them off and get a stage 1 port job- plan is to run the Comp Cams XR281HR cam (I've read they are decent for boost??)- but I'm not sure what valves, springs, or rockers to run. I do plan on replacing the trays and doing the trunnion upgrade as well- probably going to slap some hardened pushrods in if necc??

Going to run the UPR Tubular Kmember with the LS mounts on them- anyone know if the stock oil pan will work with this??

This is my first teardown/rebuild- I want everything to be right- any input from you all would be greatly appreciated

Thanks a ton,
Zac
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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I would do the ARP stuff unless you plan on having the mains/rods honed. Let your machinist determine whether or not it needs it, but plan on it anyways.

You could do some stock replacement rings and gap them larger for boost. The last one I built, I used a Hastings ring set, which was about $50, and opened the gaps up. It went into a truck and made 650whp with boost. Stock rod and main bolts too BTW.

I wouldn't do much more than a valvejob on the 862 heads, but have it cut for larger valves. When you're cramming boost down an engines throat, how good the heads are make little difference compared to what a couple more psi will do. Stock rockers and a stock ls6 cam work really well for the money.

I'm in the process of the same swap. I've got an '80 coupe which is receiving the AJE front suspension with an iron LS and a 70mm. Waiting on AJE before I drop in the engine and start fabricating the hot side.
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 10:50 AM
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Thanks for the input- would these rings work?

Piston Rings, Plasma-Moly, 4.030 in. Bore, 1/16 in., 1/16 in., 3/16 in. Thickness, 8-Cylinder, Set of 8
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MrPZProductions
Thanks for the input- would these rings work?

Piston Rings, Plasma-Moly, 4.030 in. Bore, 1/16 in., 1/16 in., 3/16 in. Thickness, 8-Cylinder, Set of 8
Nope, not even close. The 4.8L/5.3L engines all have a 3.780" bore, not a 4.030" bore. They also use a metric ring pack, 1.5/1.5/3.0mm IIRC as opposed to the standard 1/16" rings set you've listed.

Use these: PN HAS-2M4978
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 12:33 PM
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Thanks a ton for the info! The more the merrier
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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How about these Keith Black rings? 3.78 bore- 1.2/1.5/3.0
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 02:12 PM
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I don't think any 5.3L/4.8L engines had a 1.2mm top ring, so no, I don't think they would work.
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
I don't think any 5.3L/4.8L engines had a 1.2mm top ring, so no, I don't think they would work.
I cant seem to find any with 1.5mm top ring on summit- the journey continues
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 02:33 PM
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Try these

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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
Try these

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perfect thanks for all the help! I'm sure I'll be needing more of it- are my power goals attainable on this little 4.8? From what I read if I keep the heads planted down and upgrade the rod bolts I should be gravy
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