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Bare minimum cam swap!

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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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Default Bare minimum cam swap!

What's the bare minimum parts I can get by with while doing a can swap on my LS1. I know the gaskets, springs, and cam, but if I just want to get it in and back running should I need new push rods or anything else to make it work right? The cam is a custom grind, comp cams 232/236@50 542/545 on a 112. Also I was wondering if anyone had run a cam similar to this one. Thanks
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 08:57 PM
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Depending on the mileage on the engine, and how hard it's been driven, you might want to also consider a new timing chain and oil pump. You can get by on the stock push-rods if there's enough lifter preload with the new cam, otherwise stiffer longer push-rods should be on your list.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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Gaskets, springs, valve seals, cam, coolant, oil, oil filter, pushrods, a/c recharge (if you have a/c) and a tune minimum. I wouldn't run an aftermarket cam and springs with stock pushrods and it is critical that you check the pushrod length and get stiffer springs. You also need a tune. Every time I have ever torn an engine down to install a cam I planned on figuring a little extra money for incidentals just in case (spark plugs, etc...). Unless it's low miles I don't see why you wouldn't replace the timing chain and oil pump also though.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 09:46 PM
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Its running good now but I have dogged the **** out of it. I'm just trying to use all of the parts I had laying in the shop while I'm freshing up the trans. Its a stock car now but I'm about to put in a 4000 converter, long tubes, a 3.5" exhaust, and a 3.73. I've got this cam sitting here that I wanted to use but I'm getting ready to build a new motor so I didn't want to spend much on this one. I hate to waste money on stuff I won't need but about 6 months. I was mainly wondering about the push rod issue.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:33 AM
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The push rod thing is kinda a tricky one. I installed a cam into a 2004 4.8l and it needed .050" longer pushrods, I installed the same cam in a 2002 6.0l and stock length pushrods were perfect. So I'm pretty sure it depends on your particular engine, since the 2 engines I listed should have been the same.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:10 AM
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Modding, you're doing it wrong.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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$80 for harden push rods .
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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I should have mentioned: for the amount that cam would want to rev, stock (unhardened) pushrods would probably not be a good idea at all.
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Pushrods bend in bone stock motors. I had 3 that were "slightly" bowed when I did my cam swap. They're like limp noodles. Spend the 80-100 bucks and get some chromoly PR's.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 11:41 AM
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Your going to need push rods. The stock pushrods can hardly control the stock valve train. They are equal to wet noodles. Plus you will need a tune for it to run correctly.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 11:51 AM
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You'll need to measure for push-rod length and then get at least .080 walled ones.
PS: The stiffer the better, (less flex), more accurate cam timing and more powa.
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